Help....Possible Starter Issues.

Bad new battery but tapping starter got me home, these starters I believe are preloaded?? They will not crank with a low battery.


Thewelshm
 
Found this on another site....

First we need to establish what constitutes a fully charged battery. I've seen no small number of posts stating "fully charged battery will be 12.4 volts".
That is ...... Incorrect.

At 12.4 volts, the battery is only 75% charged. That is correct, a FULLY charged battery at rest with the surface charge removed will be 12.6 volts.
This is because a 12 volt battery is made up of 6 cells, each producing ~ 2.1 volts. These are tied together in series, meaning the voltage of each individual cell is multiplied by the number of cells to get the total voltage of each.

There is a very big difference when a car battery drops even a small amount of voltage. When an automotive battery voltage drops from 12.6 to 12.0, for example, its 'power' drops from 100% to 25%. At 12.4 volts, a car battery is 75% charged while at 12.2 volts its 50% charged. That is correct, at 12.2 volts, consider the battery HALF DISCHARGED.

For simplicity's sake, you can consider your car battery charged at 12.4 volts or higher and discharged at 12.39 volts or less, but 12.6 is 100% charged, 100% rated capacity.
 
mcdoogle1975 said:
Never had to.......Yet
Click to expand...

Reason I ask is because if you haven't yet, you might have more than one problem on your hands. I had a bad battery and weak starter on one occasion and didn't realize it until I replaced both. Now that you know the battery isn't the problem, you may want to remove the starter and get it properly tested. Worse case scenario you have to buy a new one and spend some money. No biggie.
 
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I think it may be more than starter and battery.....I was able to pop start it and while it was at idle after it started the check gauges light came on and I noticed I had 0 oil pressure. So we got her up on the flatbed and headed home. I will be tearing into it tomorrow morning to see what I can find out.
 
Skypilot68 said:
Found this on another site....

First we need to establish what constitutes a fully charged battery. I've seen no small number of posts stating "fully charged battery will be 12.4 volts".
That is ...... Incorrect.

At 12.4 volts, the battery is only 75% charged. That is correct, a FULLY charged battery at rest with the surface charge removed will be 12.6 volts.
This is because a 12 volt battery is made up of 6 cells, each producing ~ 2.1 volts. These are tied together in series, meaning the voltage of each individual cell is multiplied by the number of cells to get the total voltage of each.

There is a very big difference when a car battery drops even a small amount of voltage. When an automotive battery voltage drops from 12.6 to 12.0, for example, its 'power' drops from 100% to 25%. At 12.4 volts, a car battery is 75% charged while at 12.2 volts its 50% charged. That is correct, at 12.2 volts, consider the battery HALF DISCHARGED.

For simplicity's sake, you can consider your car battery charged at 12.4 volts or higher and discharged at 12.39 volts or less, but 12.6 is 100% charged, 100% rated capacity.
Click to expand...

This is all correct but can be misleading. Battery voltage only tells you the state of charge - it does not tell you capacity so even seeing 12.6 Volts does not guarantee that the battery has the capacity to engage the starter. You can get 12.6 volts from your small garden tractor battery but it will not have the CAPACITY to start your truck. The capacity is determined by the amount of active materials in the battery - i.e. physically larger batteries have more active material and therefore more capacity. Buying a new battery also does not guarantee that it is fully charged or at full capacity since all batteries self discharge while sitting on the shelf.
 
I don't like where this is heading. Try to turn the engine over by hand & Check for resistance. Use a socket & ratchet on the front crank bolt. I know it's easier said than done. If It won't turn the pull all the spark plugs and try again. It should then turn over with relative ease. If not something is locked up in the motor.
 
10-1=9 said:
I don't like where this is heading. Try to turn the engine over by hand & Check for resistance. Use a socket & ratchet on the front crank bolt. I know it's easier said than done. If It won't turn the pull all the spark plugs and try again. It should then turn over with relative ease. If not something is locked up in the motor.
Click to expand...

i dont believe anything is locked up because after i pop started it last night i can start it normal now, wich leads me to believe i have a bad spot in the starter, but the check gauges light is on and i have 0 oil pressure. first thing today im going to pull the oil pressure switch and install a mechanical hand held to see if i actualy do have zero oil pressure and eliminate a bad gage. hopefully it is the gage if not then it would most likely be the oil pump.....uugh:dontknow:
 
You may want to disconnect both battery connections and hold them together for 15 seconds to clear the PCM. Low voltage conditions can cause some erratic problems. You might also remove all of your ground connections and clean the contact areas with a wire brush. A bad ground can cause all the issues that you are describing.
 
seethrough said:
You may want to disconnect both battery connections and hold them together for 15 seconds to clear the PCM. Low voltage conditions can cause some erratic problems. You might also remove all of your ground connections and clean the contact areas with a wire brush. A bad ground can cause all the issues that you are describing.
Click to expand...

I will definitely do that.
Thanks
 
Update#2

After the long flatbed ride home and a goonights rest....lol
I removed the oil pressure switch, hooked up a pressure tester and low and behold zero oil pressure. As I said in a previous post this is my first time tearing into this motor so does anyone have any suggestions on how to change the oil pump....or should I say gears because from what I can see there is no actual pump........:dontknow:
 
So it starts now? Oil pump is attached to the back side of the front engine cover and runs off the crankshaft snout. You have to disassemble the entire front and drop the oilpan a few inches to get the front cover off. I would check other issues before you dive into all of this. There is an oil bypass valve near the filter - it has a flat Allen head cover bolt holding it in place. You might try that. Dumb question but you didn't spring a large oil leak and now not have any oil in the motor?
 
seethrough said:
So it starts now? Oil pump is attached to the back side of the front engine cover and runs off the crankshaft snout. You have to disassemble the entire front and drop the oilpan a few inches to get the front cover off. I would check other issues before you dive into all of this. There is an oil bypass valve near the filter - it has a flat Allen head cover bolt holding it in place. You might try that. Dumb question but you didn't spring a large oil leak and now not have any oil in the motor?
Click to expand...

Yes she starts now, actually when I pop started it somthing must have broke free and now no issues starting. Checked oil and it's full actually I just did an oil change 3 weeks ago. No leaks any where but thanks for the heads up on the oil by pass valve. I will check that in the morning. Stupid question but what does the bypass actually do?
 
I think it is there to bypass the filter if the pressure gets too high. At first it sounded like an electrical issue but pop starting it to get it running followed by no oil pressure is starting to sound very very bad. The oil pump on these trucks are so simple I can't see one failing to the point of not putting out any pressure unless there is a blockage in the pickup tube. if it were me I would tear the pan off and check the oil for metal shaving. If the pickup tube is ok then I would move onto pulling the front cover and getting deeper into it.
 
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