Help! Trouble getting 6 speep into Reverse

[srt10rules]

I recently had the Roe upgrade done (centerforce clutch and viper master/slave). This was followed by a real xmission seal replacement and now I can rarely get reverse. 1st is also sometimes difficult. Any thoughts out there??

 

[eddie102870]

I recently had the Roe upgrade done (centerforce clutch and viper master/slave). This was followed by a real xmission seal replacement and now I can rarely get reverse. 1st is also sometimes difficult. Any thoughts out there??

might want to try and re-center your shifter.

 

[srt10rules]

gonna try that this weekend. Simple process??

 

[eddie102870]

gonna try that this weekend. Simple process??

pretty easy, loosen the bolts run it throught the gears a few times with the truck not running, then tighten it back down.

 

[Slitherbeast]

Bleed the clutch!!!! Not enough travel in the slave to free the clutch disc so the syncros can't slow the gears down to allow the shift.

 

[TheMoparConnection]

make sure the reverse lock out solenoid isnt unplugged. that will make it very difficult to get in reverse.

 

[srt10rules]

Where is the solenoid?

 

[TheMoparConnection]

on the back on the trans...

 

[kennygene]

Bleed the clutch!!!! Not enough travel in the slave to free the clutch disc so the syncros can't slow the gears down to allow the shift.

What he said!!!!!!!!!!!!! It worked for my truck. I was easy and didn't cost any $$$:rock: :rock:

 

[JeffBoyette]

Reference this thread.
http://vtcoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32568

I have the same issue as you and it escalated into a more serious situation like many others on here.

Its a "bushing" , or rather a Fork Pad

BS19B 5/6, Reverse Bronze Fork Pads

(2) Pair required for 5/6 & Reverse

Stock fork pads are plastic and prone to breaking. D&D's upgraded bronze pads will not break or crush.
View attachment Bushing.bmp


This was discovered and brought to the VTCOA peoples attention by.

2. The plastic pads on the shift fork are broken. I had the same issue, put it into reverse begin to let out the clutch and pops outta gear. This is about the 4th time I have heard this since I have been a member on the forum. If it is the pads the tranny has to come out and be taken apart. The sooner you fix this the less money it costs you as I waited and I wore out the reverse syncro and gear. DO NOT buy the original type plastic pads, replace them with bronze pads from Six Speeds Inc. or D&D Performance.

http://www.ddperformance.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=75cPath=107_103_119

I went by my local tranny shop and without saying anything i let the manager test drive it, me in the passenger of course. After embarassing himself trying to get the truck in reverse, and it popping out after finally getting it in gear and backing 5 feet, The Master Tech confirmed this issue and proposed the same solution.


As many times as i have read about this on here I again strongly encourage this discovery be made a sticky!

 

[WOT]

Can't get 1st or reverse? Sounds like the clutch isn't fully releasing.

 

[kennygene]

Bleed the hydraulic system and make sure it is full!!!!

 

[yellowfever#154]

Jeff, thanks for the recognition bud. I was thinking that this fellows problem is probably just a clutch bleeding issue. If the clutch was just installed and now there is problems I doubt that the plastic pads are broken. When the shifter pops back into neutral when releasing the clutch would be the first signs of broken plastic forks.

 

[moparracing]

I was thinking that this fellows problem is probably just a clutch bleeding issue. If the clutch was just installed and now there is problems I doubt that the plastic pads are broken. When the shifter pops back into neutral when releasing the clutch would be the first signs of broken plastic forks.

agreed.

 

[JeffBoyette]

Jeff, thanks for the recognition bud. I was thinking that this fellows problem is probably just a clutch bleeding issue. If the clutch was just installed and now there is problems I doubt that the plastic pads are broken. When the shifter pops back into neutral when releasing the clutch would be the first signs of broken plastic forks.

Well i had trouble getting mine in reverse for a couple weeks, then it got worse and eventually swas popping out. Now when i put it in reverse and i dont get "lucky" It grinds, I go forward a little, and try again till it works.
You were right on when you mentiond these peices. 600 bucks labor tho still have my project at a standstill with the baby on the way.

 

[srt10rules]

Mine has never had a problem once it is in reverse. (doesn't pop out) If I shut the engine down, I can go right into reverse.

When bleeding the clutch, where are the bleeding screws?

 

[TheMoparConnection]

Mine has never had a problem once it is in reverse. (doesn't pop out) If I shut the engine down, I can go right into reverse.

When bleeding the clutch, where are the bleeding screws?

did you check that plug? if it goes in rev without problems with the engine off, more than likely that solenoid is not connected

 

[furgy667]

Mine has never had a problem once it is in reverse. (doesn't pop out) If I shut the engine down, I can go right into reverse.

When bleeding the clutch, where are the bleeding screws?

That's exactly what mine is doing . Fist is a little tight when the truck is warm but the only way to get it in reverse is to shut it down . I don't ever pop out of gear , no grinding , just no reverse when the truck is running. Shifts ok when going down the road . Really sucks at wally world when your trying to get in a parking spot .

I completely flushed the system , with high temp fluid and it help but did not fix the issue. I am 80% sure my problem is that the clutch us upgraded and the hydraulics where not. I know for sure i have a center force clutch . I have great peddle pressure and the clutch engages close to the top of the peddle. I just don't think the stock hydraulics are up to the task .

Also make sure the line going to the slave is not to close to the exhaust. If it is it can heat the fluid up and cause problems. I zip tied mine up and wrapped it up in header wrap.

Bleeding screw is easy to find. Just follow the line from the master to the slave and you'll see the screw. Two person job and it could not hurt to try it first. I wish you luck and hope this helps.

Brandon

 

[TNVIPER]

I have been having the shift into reverse problem...doesnt jump out..will grind when trying to engage...not everytime..maybe 1 out of 3 times.......I bled the clutch today and drove around....put it in reverse 8 different times...no grinding..

 

[yellowfever#154]

Just another thought, when the hydraulics were upgraded did they install the shim on the slave cylinder?