High Idle (2000+ RPM) Issue

Kevan

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Hey folks. I'm having an issue with the idle on the truck. Truck is N/A (am I the only one left? LOL) with only JMB CAI and Magnaflow.

When cold, it idles fine (around 750).
After the engine gets up to normal operating temp, the idle increases to anywhere from 1500 to 2100.

- No codes thrown.
- All hoses and connections are tight and clean.
- All electrical connections are tight and clean.
- The IAC has been replaced (and computer-checked at the same time).

I didn't make it 3 miles from the dealership before the idle ramped back up to 2000.

I've found out that if I turn the ignition off, let it remain off for 1-2 seconds, then re-start the truck, idle is restored to 750. This is only temporary. As soon as I get the RPM's up past 2000, the idle will remain high (1800+).

The idle does go back to normal if I let the truck sit and don't touch the throttle. It takes about 4-5 minutes for it to get back down to 750.

Any suggestions before I pull the TB and completely rebuild it?

Oh, and for those smart-pants ready to post, "Just get a new TB, clownie!", budget for this project is less than $50.
 
Did you check the code read-out yet. Sometimes she'll throw a code you can look-up.
I noticed that you said there were no codes...sometimes it takes a while.....it is a system, and the trigger to throw a code my have failed?

Quick
 
Last edited:
it sounds like a vacuum leak, possibly the throttle body gasket. any leak past the iac will cause a high idle issue. if you have any throttle body cleaner or carb cleaner, spray it around the throttle body and see if the idle changes.
 
QuickSilver said:
Did you check the code read-out yet. Sometimes she'll throw a code you can look-up.
I noticed that you said there were no codes...sometimes it takes a while.....it is a system, and the trigger to throw a code my have failed?

Quick
I'm sorry Quick. What did you say? I was distracted by your avatar. :D

I thought it would be something electrical or computer-related, but when I key off and then key-on and restart the engine, all is normal.
If it were electrical or computer-related, the condition would probably remain even after a quick reset of the system.


TMC- is the TB gasket re-usable, or do I need to replace it once removed?
 
Kevan said:
I'm sorry Quick. What did you say? I was distracted by your avatar. :D

I thought it would be something electrical or computer-related, but when I key off and then key-on and restart the engine, all is normal.
If it were electrical or computer-related, the condition would probably remain even after a quick reset of the system.


TMC- is the TB gasket re-usable, or do I need to replace it once removed?

depends on the condition of the gasket. I also replace the t-body gaskets if i have to remove it. cheap insurance.
 
I had same symptoms, and dealer replced the TPS.(no codes shown)

Haven't had any more problems.

Will
Kevan said:
Hey folks. I'm having an issue with the idle on the truck. Truck is N/A (am I the only one left? LOL) with only JMB CAI and Magnaflow.

When cold, it idles fine (around 750).
After the engine gets up to normal operating temp, the idle increases to anywhere from 1500 to 2100.

- No codes thrown.
- All hoses and connections are tight and clean.
- All electrical connections are tight and clean.
- The IAC has been replaced (and computer-checked at the same time).

I didn't make it 3 miles from the dealership before the idle ramped back up to 2000.

I've found out that if I turn the ignition off, let it remain off for 1-2 seconds, then re-start the truck, idle is restored to 750. This is only temporary. As soon as I get the RPM's up past 2000, the idle will remain high (1800+).

The idle does go back to normal if I let the truck sit and don't touch the throttle. It takes about 4-5 minutes for it to get back down to 750.

Any suggestions before I pull the TB and completely rebuild it?

Oh, and for those smart-pants ready to post, "Just get a new TB, clownie!", budget for this project is less than $50.
 
Here's a hint on what happened here tonight....

P1030111.jpg


:D

Expect a couple of DIY articles from this.
 
Kevan said:
Here's a hint on what happened here tonight....

P1030111.jpg


:D

Expect a couple of DIY articles from this.
Disclaimer: I am new to working on engines and am learning everyday...

Is it because of the oil around there or is it the gasket which looks a little pushed in at the bottom?

:dontknow: :dontknow:
 
Kevan,

You truck is fuct. You should probably sell it and buy a Prius instead. ;) :D :rofl:
 
amtrucker22 said:
Disclaimer: I am new to working on engines and am learning everyday...

Is it because of the oil around there or is it the gasket which looks a little pushed in at the bottom?

:dontknow: :dontknow:
The picture is at an odd angle, so it looks like the gasket is malformed. It's not. I triple-checked it.
It's not easy taking pics of the TB while the radiator is still in place. :)

Roz-SRT said:
Kevan,

You truck is fuct. You should probably sell it and buy a Prius instead. ;) :D :rofl:
Dude, I tried that already.
When I pulled the truck into the dealership, they all came at me with pitchforks and torches.
Thankfully I have a truck that will do 160+ mph. I barely made it out alive!
---------------------------

GOOD NEWS!

After the IAC replacement, the throttle still hung up at about 2000 rpm. I scheduled another appointment this AM and got the TPS replaced (Yes, I got the memo). 30 minutes later, the truck was back to normal.

I ran some errands on the way home, just to check things out. 100% good.

HUGE PROPS to the Service Dept. over at Bob Caldwell Dodge (Columbus, OH).
Christine (service rep) and the guys in the shop were awesome both times I was in there this week. No scoffing or anything! They even tolerated me looming like a mother hen as they worked on the truck. I appreciated that.
And all covered under warranty! Thanks Dodge!
 
Kevan said:
The picture is at an odd angle, so it looks like the gasket is malformed. It's not. I triple-checked it.
It's not easy taking pics of the TB while the radiator is still in place. :)

Dude, I tried that already.
When I pulled the truck into the dealership, they all came at me with pitchforks and torches.
Thankfully I have a truck that will do 160+ mph. I barely made it out alive!
---------------------------

GOOD NEWS!

After the IAC replacement, the throttle still hung up at about 2000 rpm. I scheduled another appointment this AM and got the TPS replaced (Yes, I got the memo). 30 minutes later, the truck was back to normal.

I ran some errands on the way home, just to check things out. 100% good.

HUGE PROPS to the Service Dept. over at Bob Caldwell Dodge (Columbus, OH).
Christine (service rep) and the guys in the shop were awesome both times I was in there this week. No scoffing or anything! They even tolerated me looming like a mother hen as they worked on the truck. I appreciated that.
And all covered under warranty! Thanks Dodge!
Glad to hear that is all worked out for you Kevan.:rock: :rock: :rock: :rock:
 
Kevan said:
.....
Dude, I tried that already.
When I pulled the truck into the dealership, they all came at me with pitchforks and torches.
Thankfully I have a truck that will do 160+ mph. I barely made it out alive!
...


Now that's funny. :D :D :D

Glad you got her fixed up, Kevan. :rock:
 
Kevan said:
The picture is at an odd angle, so it looks like the gasket is malformed. It's not. I triple-checked it.
It's not easy taking pics of the TB while the radiator is still in place. :)

Dude, I tried that already.
When I pulled the truck into the dealership, they all came at me with pitchforks and torches.
Thankfully I have a truck that will do 160+ mph. I barely made it out alive!
---------------------------

GOOD NEWS!

After the IAC replacement, the throttle still hung up at about 2000 rpm. I scheduled another appointment this AM and got the TPS replaced (Yes, I got the memo). 30 minutes later, the truck was back to normal.

I ran some errands on the way home, just to check things out. 100% good.

HUGE PROPS to the Service Dept. over at Bob Caldwell Dodge (Columbus, OH).
Christine (service rep) and the guys in the shop were awesome both times I was in there this week. No scoffing or anything! They even tolerated me looming like a mother hen as they worked on the truck. I appreciated that.
And all covered under warranty! Thanks Dodge!


That good news.
I was worried I would the only member of the "Wuss Club":D
 
I have the same intermittant problem on the red truck and I ohmed out the TPS and it does have a scratchy spot in the travel.

I just exchanged it with the one from the silver truck, all is fine.


The oil around the inlet on the intake manifold is blowby. That is why all the viper vehicles especially 04's and later need a catch can. The oil can cause detonation and other problems.
 
FSTJACK said:
The oil around the inlet on the intake manifold is blowby. That is why all the viper vehicles especially 04's need a catch can. The oil can cause detonation and other problems.
I do have the catch can and CAI from Justin. I still had some of that blowby on mine. I will have to make sure that the catch can is not full. :dontknow:

Thanks for posting.
 
Is there a way to force the TPS to re-learn it's settings? We can do this on the dodge diesels and is commonly called the APPS/TPS Reset Procedure....


I have this pesky problem as well and is growing annoying....
 
glad to hear the truck is back on the road and i am very happy to see you made it out alive.
 
this is the ROE instruction ::rock:
( i asked if disconnecting batterie is the same as the 3 connectors ... and yes, only then you can loose radio presets also...... )

This procedure must be followed if the battery is ever disconnected or drained to the point of the truck not starting.



1. Disconnect all three PCM connectors for about 10 minutes. By doing this, you are erasing the PCM adaptive memory. The PCM is located on the firewall directly above and behind the passenger side front wheel.

2. Disconnect the TPS (throttle position sensor) on the driver’s side of the throttle body. Ensure all wire connections are correct.

3. Disconnect the IAC (idle air control motor) on the air plenum located on the passenger side directly behind the air filter. Ensure all wire connections are correct.

4. With the PCM disconnected, make sure the throttle cable and throttle linkage is adjusted properly for wide-open throttle. The driver’s floor mat should be removed as it can inhibit accelerator pedal travel.

5. After wide-open throttle is verified or adjusted, reconnect the PCM, TPS and IAC connectors after 10 minutes has elapsed from the start of this procedure.

6. Turn the key to the "on" position, but DO NOT start the engine.

7. With the drivers floor mat out of the truck, slowly press the accelerator to full throttle, then repeat. By doing this, you are showing the TPS (throttle position sensor) full throttle. Without this information in the PCM, it will not correctly calculate how to make the engine run properly.

8. Turn the key off then start the truck without touching the accelerator.

9. Let the engine idle for approximately 2-3 minutes.

10. After idling, drive easy, then progressively harder over the course of about 10-20 minutes.

11. The truck will drive differently during the first 20-40 miles because the PCM is learning the new adaptives.



With great thanks to ROE RACING :rock: :rock:
 
I'm still having this problem too.Have done everything suggested here except taking off the throttle body and re-building. Really annoying-draws unnecessary attention when you pull up next to a Trooper at a light and it doesn't throttle down.
 

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