How concerned should i be?

Update. Ive been busy. I bought the $16 TPS. First thing i did was reset the PCM. I touched the battery cables together and reloaded the stock tune. Then took it for a drive. Odd but the stock tune even felt stronger after this than the 93 did before.

When i returned i installed the TPS, i pulled the IAC which was pretty carbon'd up as suggested. I cleaned it well and the hole it goes in with toothbrush and seafoam. I removed the CAI tube and opened up the Throttle Body butterflies. Sprayed some seafoam on it and with a toothbrush cleaned up the rim where the blades touch and the butterflies. Probably futile but im anal, just not anal enough to take it off and clean it proper. I then shorted the cables again, and reloaded my 93 tune.

Took it for the same drive on the same route. When i got to the first light and touched the brakes for the first time i nearly ate the steering wheel. Not sure why but it seems i have more vacuum. I also noticed during the 30 minute ride around town, that 90% of the popping and gurgling the exhaust that im used to, is gone. It may pop once or twice then just smoothly growl all the way down to idle. I mentioned before that the truck felt lazy down low. No longer the case. Either from having the tune reloaded, the tps swap, or cleaning up around the TB, the truck feels like a different animal. From a 10 mph dig full throttle lights the tires up all the way through first and halfway through second. It passes better on the highway in higher gears as well. Its pretty suprising.

Now the whole low idle thing. It is idling the same rpm as before, just much smoother now. During my little jaunt around town i watched the tach closely. When putting in neutral and off the throttle the tach hangs at 1200, drops to 750 when idling then immediatly drops to 250 and sits motionless till i rev it. After it audibly gains a a couple hundred rpm, the tach lags behind then jumps up to where it should read. The problem is the tach. Nothing wrong with the engine.
 
hankthetank said:
try replacing that rumble bee engine with an 8.3 Viper engine like mine while you're at it.....:elefant::dontknow::D
Click to expand...



hahaha, funny thing is, his truck would wipe the floor with your "true" VT. hows that feel in your heavy ass, grocery gettin, bitch ass, auto fairy QC


BWHAHAHAHAHAHA:elefant::elefant::elefant:



Glad everything worked out jeff. the truck is strong, trust me, i know. I have lit the tires at any speed anywhere thorugh 1st gear. not the first time that has happened. found it kinda funny the other day when you said you didnt get any spin in first. but if my tires are warm and im on a good hookin road, i have had no spin in first aswell, so, there you go... buth the only time i can get more than a couple rotations in second is if i shift hard at like a 20mph spin. if i take it to 5,500 rpms it will just chirop real hard hittin second.

also, may want to have a buddy reset those caltracs for you, they can make a BIG difference, even with a small amount of wight diff
 
JeffBoyette said:
Update. Ive been busy. I bought the $16 TPS. First thing i did was reset the PCM. I touched the battery cables together and reloaded the stock tune. Then took it for a drive. Odd but the stock tune even felt stronger after this than the 93 did before.

When i returned i installed the TPS, i pulled the IAC which was pretty carbon'd up as suggested. I cleaned it well and the hole it goes in with toothbrush and seafoam. I removed the CAI tube and opened up the Throttle Body butterflies. Sprayed some seafoam on it and with a toothbrush cleaned up the rim where the blades touch and the butterflies. Probably futile but im anal, just not anal enough to take it off and clean it proper. I then shorted the cables again, and reloaded my 93 tune.

Took it for the same drive on the same route. When i got to the first light and touched the brakes for the first time i nearly ate the steering wheel. Not sure why but it seems i have more vacuum. I also noticed during the 30 minute ride around town, that 90% of the popping and gurgling the exhaust that im used to, is gone. It may pop once or twice then just smoothly growl all the way down to idle. I mentioned before that the truck felt lazy down low. No longer the case. Either from having the tune reloaded, the tps swap, or cleaning up around the TB, the truck feels like a different animal. From a 10 mph dig full throttle lights the tires up all the way through first and halfway through second. It passes better on the highway in higher gears as well. Its pretty suprising.

Now the whole low idle thing. It is idling the same rpm as before, just much smoother now. During my little jaunt around town i watched the tach closely. When putting in neutral and off the throttle the tach hangs at 1200, drops to 750 when idling then immediatly drops to 250 and sits motionless till i rev it. After it audibly gains a a couple hundred rpm, the tach lags behind then jumps up to where it should read. The problem is the tach. Nothing wrong with the engine.
Click to expand...

Hmm, I got to try that. My truck seems like you were describing, flat through the mid range. My Magnaflow also pops like a bitch when decelerating and when I come off the throttle before I shift she pops lots too. But I sure as he'll don't want that to go away!!
 
Also my idle is hanging slightly... I'll pick up a tps and try that
 
Its such a cheap attempt. Clean up that IAC and reset the pcm. It was amazing the difference last night, even on my ride to work this morning, it confirmed it wasnt a fluke. The brakes on the truck were already leaps and bounds stronger than my last truck. Ive gotten used to the brakes after driving it 1600 miles since i got it already, and since last night i keep eating my steering wheel. Its kind of embarassing at the lights. Its as touchy as my hayabusa.

I guess the TPS was sending the wrong throttle percentages to the PCM at idle and WOT. This may have caused the flat feeling the truck was giving me. Maybe i had some carbon around the throttle body butterfly, or the carbon'd up iac and it was letting more air through the iac, instead of the tb where it should. Cleaning this up improved the vacuum giving me more signal to my brake booster. I dont know.

Also considering the improvements i recieved from just resetting the pcm and loading the stock tune, then even more improvement from reloading the 93 tune, maybe something was going on there too?

Either way im glad the truck feels better, im just frustrated my tach is messed up. That sounds like an expensive fix.
 
FL06SRT10 said:
What year is yours? If it is an 06 it is probably a bad cluster. Mine would even read 0rpms driving down the road lol replaced and never happened again
Click to expand...

Price and part #, i bet you were lucky enough to have it under warranty.
 
I know when I reset my PCM it woke it up... Buy after a few days it always goes back. I guess I have a project this weeked.
 
Jeff how does your truck run after driving for a few hours? Mine gets pretty lazy when she has been running for a while.
 
I had an issue with that on my last truck. I did the IAT mod. You go to radio shack and get a resistor, and put in inline with the sensor. It fools your computer into thinking the air is substantially cooler preventing the timing retard. Truck felt the same a minute after cranking it cold as it did after driving an hour in the hottest florida summer days. Not to mention the track times were consistant throughout the night, where as before they would drop 2-3 tenths.

The resistor was 99 cent, and took 5 min to install. I can get the part number for you if your interested.
 
Here is the link to my old thread.
http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/f8/iat-mod-complete-24177/

You know how your truck feels on those cold crisp mornings? Not all of that is the efficiency of cold air, alot of it is timing and fuel mapping from the signal your IAT sends your PCM. By installing a resistor your computer maps it for the cold air. Some say why fool the computer, let it do what it is supposed to do.

I had a stock tune, I took sean roe's advice and did it anyway, and i was very impressed with the results. I run quality fuel and wasnt worried about preignition from advanced timing. The higher the resistance of the resistor the colder your computer thinks the air is. There is a point of diminishing returns, as it doesnt advance timing past a certain point, but it also prevents retarding the timing at higher temps. I was very happy with the consistancy and improvements of the 10k ohm. Sean Roe says 5.6k. I would be interested to see on the dyno the difference between the two.
 
yep, i read throught it....gonna' try the 5.6k. blue/green wire right?
 
So safest bet it 5.6k? And Jeff are you going to do this to your 06?
 
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