How to bleed powersteering system?

yellowfever#154

yellowfever#154

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The truck is alive again and just about complete for now. I am having problems getting the steering system to bleed, anyone know a procedure? I installed Stinkers line kit at the same time, not that it should make a difference but maybe something is backwards? There are no noises whatsoever coming from the pump and it is complete armstrong steering and no cooling fan.
 
I tried this, should I not hear the pump make some noise while this is happening? The truck has run for about 20 minutes and the oil level in the reservoir has not moved 1mm.
 
When I swapped my P/S lines for Stinkers, it took very little fluid to prime the pump and bleed out the air out of the lines. I was surprised too. You might be OK, as along as the steering feels good and you've run from lock to lock several times. The noise from the pump didn't really change (from the normal clatter) at all except for the first few seconds at start-up when it reprimed.
 
Totally normal. Just did this tonight on Dale's (TinyGiants') truck. Just go lock to lock as said above. It's also important to get the hydraulic fan to engage to bleed it as well. Just run the engine for a few short times and refill as needed before letting it warm up enough to engage the fan.
 
carefully loosen the pressure line at steering rack as it is running, just enough to bleed it out a little, when the bubbles dissappear you are good to go
 
I have run it about 6 different times, left lock to right lock 100 times, engine has reached 230 degrees the first time because I wasnt watching it. The fan does not run and the steering does not work at all. I have bled the steering before when I had the fan assembly out for the ROE install and it was easy then. The only difference now is that everything was completely dry, the steering worked fine before the engine cratered.
 
Stinker said:
carefully loosen the pressure line at steering rack as it is running, just enough to bleed it out a little, when the bubbles dissappear you are good to go
Click to expand...

I was ready to do this, but then I quit and went home. I try it next weekend, trouble is that the dang truck is too low now and Im not so sure I want to run it while its on the hoist. I figure something out, thanks Tony.
 
yellowfever#154 said:
I have run it about 6 different times, left lock to right lock 100 times, engine has reached 230 degrees the first time because I wasnt watching it. The fan does not run and the steering does not work at all. I have bled the steering before when I had the fan assembly out for the ROE install and it was easy then. The only difference now is that everything was completely dry, the steering worked fine before the engine cratered.
Click to expand...

That's your problem, man.

Unless and until your fan kicks on, you're never going to bleed all of the air out of the system.

Ensure that the wiring harness connection at the fan is connected (I forgot it 1st time), and that your cooling system has been fully bled. I put the first 2.5 gal on Dale's through the bleeder fitting on the stat housing, then another 1.5 or so through the rad with the bleeder valve open until coolant starts coming out of the bleeder, close it, then top off the rad.
 
Ram From Hell said:
That's your problem, man.

Unless and until your fan kicks on, you're never going to bleed all of the air out of the system.

Ensure that the wiring harness connection at the fan is connected (I forgot it 1st time), and that your cooling system has been fully bled. I put the first 2.5 gal on Dale's through the bleeder fitting on the stat housing, then another 1.5 or so through the rad with the bleeder valve open until coolant starts coming out of the bleeder, close it, then top off the rad.
Click to expand...

Thanks, but all the above is all good. Connectors are all connected and coolant was bled through the bleed screw.
 
normally yellow, most dont have a problem, but then again yours was drained out during the build.

so its sorta like bleeding brakes, crack the lines open a touch, now just enough to let them bleed out, hell what am I saying, I know you know how:D John deere man:)

but yessir, didnt think of it till just now , but your lines should need to be bleed some, it could be possible your pump is bad, but hopfully doubtfull
 
Stinker said:
normally yellow, most dont have a problem, but then again yours was drained out during the build.

so its sorta like bleeding brakes, crack the lines open a touch, now just enough to let them bleed out, hell what am I saying, I know you know how:D John deere man:)

but yessir, didnt think of it till just now , but your lines should need to be bleed some, it could be possible your pump is bad, but hopfully doubtfull
Click to expand...

Someone just said the green swear word. :thumpdown: :D

Fricken hope I dont need a pump, Ill crack the lines next time Im down at the rents.

Thanks Tony
 
Without that fan running, you aren't circulating fluid through the entire hydraulic system. There can still be a significant amount of air in the system in the fan drive assembly.

Are you at least seeing pink foam in the reservoir?
 
Ram From Hell said:
Without that fan running, you aren't circulating fluid through the entire hydraulic system. There can still be a significant amount of air in the system in the fan drive assembly.

Are you at least seeing pink foam in the reservoir?
Click to expand...

No foam at all, I will try and bleed the system, first at the inlet to the fan and then the inlet at the steering rack after. Hopefully I can get it to pump.
 
yellowfever#154 said:
No foam at all, I will try and bleed the system, first at the inlet to the fan and then the inlet at the steering rack after. Hopefully I can get it to pump.
Click to expand...

I'm really concerned that you're not getting froth in the pump.:(

Once that fan gets going, it really ought to help purge the rest of the system. I've never had to open up fittings anywhere in the system to get fully purged, but hopefully this helps you achieve that.

Keep us posted.
 
Ram From Hell said:
I'm really concerned that you're not getting froth in the pump.:(

Once that fan gets going, it really ought to help purge the rest of the system. I've never had to open up fittings anywhere in the system to get fully purged, but hopefully this helps you achieve that.

Keep us posted.
Click to expand...

I will for sure, thanks for your concern Eric. I too think I have bigger issues than what I hope for but oh well, I get it sorted somehow.

I read in the "what mod do you want next" thread that you are thinking of the Pectel. Just wondering why after spending the time and dollars on a AEM?
 
yellowfever#154 said:
I read in the "what mod do you want next" thread that you are thinking of the Pectel. Just wondering why after spending the time and dollars on a AEM?
Click to expand...

There really isn't much in the way of time spent on the AEM other than a little tuning, and I'm sure someone on this forum would be all over a deal for mine when I swap it out.

The single most compelling reason to switch to the Pectel is the traction control. After hearing about 1000+hp Vipers and Gallardos safely and easily ripping off mind-blowing quarter mile runs with virtually zero wheel spin, I was sold. Aside from weight, traction is the most difficult thing for our trucks to overcome.
 
Ram From Hell said:
There really isn't much in the way of time spent on the AEM other than a little tuning, and I'm sure someone on this forum would be all over a deal for mine when I swap it out.

The single most compelling reason to switch to the Pectel is the traction control. After hearing about 1000+hp Vipers and Gallardos safely and easily ripping off mind-blowing quarter mile runs with virtually zero wheel spin, I was sold. Aside from weight, traction is the most difficult thing for our trucks to overcome.
Click to expand...
you best beat Dom in the 1//4 mile bud or I will travel to wa and kick you in the knee cap:p
 
Ram From Hell said:
There really isn't much in the way of time spent on the AEM other than a little tuning, and I'm sure someone on this forum would be all over a deal for mine when I swap it out.

The single most compelling reason to switch to the Pectel is the traction control. After hearing about 1000+hp Vipers and Gallardos safely and easily ripping off mind-blowing quarter mile runs with virtually zero wheel spin, I was sold. Aside from weight, traction is the most difficult thing for our trucks to overcome.
Click to expand...

The Pectel really is a nice piece, just a little out of some of ours leagues, let me know when the AEM is up for grabs.
 
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