IAT RESISTOR MOD

SANCHOBA

TEXAS A&M DAD
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so i went to radio shack,they didn't have the 5.6k. i bought a 10k and a 4.7 (the closest they had), which one should i install:dontknow:
 
You could always extend the wires so the sensor is beside the rad support (like the O/H outside air temp sensor is) and save both resistors for something else.
But your Stage 2 flash should already have "the mod" so it doesn't pull timing as early or as much as the factory e.c.u. does (when the inlet air temp reaches 195 F.).

Ronnie
 
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You could always extend the wires so the sensor is beside the rad support (like the O/H outside air temp sensor is) and save both resistors for something else.
But your Stage 2 flash should already have "the mod" so it doesn't pull timing as early or as much as the factory e.c.u. does (when the inlet air temp reaches 195 F.).

Ronnie

always enjoy your input ronnie,makes sense. i have a very early B&G flash, originaly it was a stage 1. i sent it back because i wasn't happy with it and he tweaked it (this was before stage 2 was out) so i thought i would try the resistor mod and see if it made a difference. am i going to "hurt" anything by putting the 10k in?
 
Hi and thanks..

I can't say that for sure.
If for example your modified tune is now "rather aggressive" and the 10K puts the a.i.t. sensor into semi-permanent hibernation, you may have zero protection from it.
As long as the engine isn't pinging you "should" be safe enough.

Not a great answer, but it's an answer !!.. :D

I'm off to the drags..
Have Fun...

Ronnie
 
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I wouldnt do that resistor mod today...it was more intended for the early yrs when there wasnt much in the way of tunes and other mods....that resistor mod caused me problems later on when I updated tunes....like to never found the problem..
 
Here's what I don't get:

Why does the factory tune pull timing when the air is hot? Hotter air = less dense air (at the same pressure). Which means that you usually can run more timing. Colder air means a more dense air charge and you need to retard the timing. The factory tune does the opposite.

I understand that if the air gets hot enough, it could cause detonation, but at full throttle, I am showin the air to only be about 5-10 degress hotter than ambient. So, in the winter time, I get typically get 40F intake temperatures and full timing on a dense intake air charge. That's when my motor tends to ping. I think dodge got it wrong.
 
Yes, that is correct, more air density requires less timing.

But heat has a more immediate impact on developing detonation than the density of the air entering the engine. That's why our o.e.m. boxes pull a whopping EIGHT
degrees of timing when the intake temp climbs.

Dodge got it right..;)

Ronnie
 
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thanks for the input guys...i'm going to try the 4.7k and see what happens! (if anything):D:ahhhhh:
 
I picked up a pack of resistors.. Ranging from 2k to like 30k. I have the recommended 5.6k.

So up here temps rarely get over 80 degrees. And when it is super hot and humid I don't even really drive my truck.

What is the actual risk of installing one? And what size is recommended for a stock motor?

And Ronnie you you said the truck pulls 8 degrees... How much drop in hp would that roughly be.
I also heard the viper cars don't pull as much timing as the trucks, how come that is?
 
It is not so much the ambient temperature as it is the Air Inlet Temperature which is what is being measured here. Even at 70F. A couple of w.o.t. Bursts can easily cause the Intake temperature to soar. Eight degrees can kick the crap out of performance. A drop of at least 40 is possible; but it can of course depend.
 
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Just slap a water/meth kit on it and watch ur IAT's drop be 20 degrees
 

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