For the life of me, I can't figure out if/how they can be done without removing the intake. I got all of the old wires out just fine without removing it, and could get the boots on the coil towers, but couldn't get that magic "click" on the first few I tried, and didn't have much control of the routing, so I went ahead and pulled it. :dontknow: Dunno why Dodge did that - it was a ton of work. 
One tip I'll throw out for anyone planning to do this - get yourself a 1/4" hex or 1/4" square drive T30 Torx driver as long as you can get - I used a 6" and attached it to a 1/4" extension and that worked great for every "inside" bolt, including number 9. Allowed for a clean torque and no slipping.
Tip number 2 - destroy the harness clips on each side under the manifold. Two of mine were so brittle with AZ heat and 44k miles, they were easy. The others weren't so brittle, but couldn't get them out in any reusable fashion..
I went with Stinker's wires and sleves and some nylon 10.5mm separators from Jegs. Ripped out the stock "funnel" heat shields which leads to tip 3:
Before you remove the existing plug, rip out the stock heat shields (as long as you are going with a high temp option) and blow out the plug recessed area with compressed air - lots o stuff collects in there and you don't want to dump it into your cylinder when you remove the plug.
I went with Denso Iridium. Significantly shorter electrode stickout, but runs like a bat out of hell so far, so I'm happy.
Speaking of happy, I certainly was when I put it all back together and it worked the first time. Talk about double, triple, quadruple checking firing order before I put that intake back on!!! :rock:
One tip I'll throw out for anyone planning to do this - get yourself a 1/4" hex or 1/4" square drive T30 Torx driver as long as you can get - I used a 6" and attached it to a 1/4" extension and that worked great for every "inside" bolt, including number 9. Allowed for a clean torque and no slipping.
Tip number 2 - destroy the harness clips on each side under the manifold. Two of mine were so brittle with AZ heat and 44k miles, they were easy. The others weren't so brittle, but couldn't get them out in any reusable fashion..
I went with Stinker's wires and sleves and some nylon 10.5mm separators from Jegs. Ripped out the stock "funnel" heat shields which leads to tip 3:
Before you remove the existing plug, rip out the stock heat shields (as long as you are going with a high temp option) and blow out the plug recessed area with compressed air - lots o stuff collects in there and you don't want to dump it into your cylinder when you remove the plug.
I went with Denso Iridium. Significantly shorter electrode stickout, but runs like a bat out of hell so far, so I'm happy.
Speaking of happy, I certainly was when I put it all back together and it worked the first time. Talk about double, triple, quadruple checking firing order before I put that intake back on!!!
:rock:
