Internal Engine Upgrade

nycstev

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Was thinking about this. Does anyone have a List of ALL THE RIGHT STUFF
that has to go into these engines to make then bullet proof? Approximate cost for these parts?
Any special procedures such as O ringing heads. etc etc?
Might pick up a spare engine and rebuild it. Does it have to be the same
year as the truck I would swap into?:dontknow: :dontknow: :dontknow:
 
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It depends on your power level, you can do something as simple as rods/pistons or as wild as darton sleeves, stroker crank, billet mains, etc. No point in spending 20K+ if your only going to make 800WHP, but you cant just do rods and pistons and expect to make 1200WHP+ for very long.
Justin
 
There is no such thing as "bullet proof"... you can be relatively safe on a build or you can roll the dice...the risk is proportional to the horsepower or inversely proportional to the intellect and/or attention to the limitations of the budget.
 
Approx cost is $13,000, not including pulling or reinstalling motor.

With that is stroked crank, billet main, pistons and rods, custom cam, headwork, roller rockers, new valvetrain and seats, lifters, studs, etc. Should be good to around 1200hp or a little more.

This is how mine was just built. w/o stroking the crank you can get it done for 10,000 but you don't get as strong of rods. No idea how much more to sleeve it.

Joe
 
Prof said:
There is no such thing as "bullet proof"... you can be relatively safe on a build or you can roll the dice...the risk is proportional to the horsepower or inversely proportional to the intellect and/or attention to the limitations of the budget.

They all break something sooner or later:nurse: :nurse: :nurse: :nurse:

Blown motor
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8sYApXA1wd4
 
Prof said:
There is no such thing as "bullet proof"... you can be relatively safe on a build or you can roll the dice...the risk is proportional to the horsepower or inversely proportional to the intellect and/or attention to the limitations of the budget.
i totally agree with this!!!! built my bike(bullet proof) wire broke on an injector and it went pop:dontknow:
 
Scrambler1 said:
Approx cost is $13,000, not including pulling or reinstalling motor.

With that is stroked crank, billet main, pistons and rods, custom cam, headwork, roller rockers, new valvetrain and seats, lifters, studs, etc. Should be good to around 1200hp or a little more.

This is how mine was just built. w/o stroking the crank you can get it done for 10,000 but you don't get as strong of rods. No idea how much more to sleeve it.

Joe

And what kind of times are you recording Joe?
 
Not much, they are sleeved:( and the holes are siamesed) aka , Real close together.
 
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But it you are looking for more cubic inches they can be stoked...
 
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Prof said:
But it you are looking for more cubic inches they can be stoked...


Stoked???????????????

What is it a Stanley Steamer?????
 
includemeout said:
Not much, they are sleeved:( and the holes are siamesed) aka , Real close together.


But they can be stroked if you are looking for more cubic inches...and I don't know of anyone that has tried to work on the rev side of this engine...will have to do some research over on the Viper site...but it seems that there is considerable opportunity if you can find the formula to get the revs up around 8 or 9 grand with out ripping the skirts off the pistons...
 
All of us that have a lisp have trouble with our "R's" too...isn't that correct Mikey?
 
Prof said:
But they can be stroked if you are looking for more cubic inches...and I don't know of anyone that has tried to work on the rev side of this engine...will have to do some research over on the Viper site...but it seems that there is considerable opportunity if you can find the formula to get the revs up around 8 or 9 grand with out ripping the skirts off the pistons...
The 10,000 rpm is quite obtainable. However, I do believe it would require a full length girdle on the bottom end to keep the crank shaft from hitting the ground. I think it is a matter of de-stroking. You could also increase the displacement on the top end with some chromally sleeves (real thin) and having them nickasilled (sp?) Sylican nickel carbide, the same plating used in porsches and most two stroke motorcycles. Something most people aren't familiar with.

Check this out:

350 chevy bore: 4.030 x stroke: 3.48
Viper engine bore: 4.030 (same bore) x stroke: 3.96

even the stroke should be ok for the revs. Kinda like a 401 small block (and they will certainly turn 10000) of course, a good set of titanium or aluminum rods wouldn't hurt .........

one last thought, bore out the cam journals and use some mercury marine split cage needle bearings on the cam shaft beings they have no bearings in them at all, bushing or otherwise.
 

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