k1 rods

I have them, but I'll be at stock power level
 
They are a good rod. I did some tensile strength/destructive testing on them at a machine shop and they are very strong.

So much of the automotive stuff originates overseas now. I couldn't care less. if it works, it works.
 
Last edited:
Well I guess I'll give them a try, hopefully will be around 1100 crank hp after the build. Just wanna be careful, the stock rod just about broke the block in two when it came apart.
 
Well I guess I'll give them a try, hopefully will be around 1100 crank hp after the build. Just wanna be careful, the stock rod just about broke the block in two when it came apart.


Yeah, tensile strength is only one consideration. But I think yanking them back right after the exhaust stroke at high r.p.m. has to be hell on a rod.
Any 1/2 decent performance rod should be able to withstand a good push down the cylinder during the power stroke.
It all depends on how much resistance it meets.
 
Last edited:
From my understanding rods almost always fail from stretching not compression forces. The k1 are a lot lighter than the Lunati too. You don't happen to know what a stock rod and stockp piston weigh do you.
 
From my understanding rods almost always fail from stretching not compression forces. The k1 are a lot lighter than the Lunati too. You don't happen to know what a stock rod and stockp piston weigh do you.

FROM MEMORY (Can be dangerous :)) ...

Rod: 598 Grams
Piston: 435 Grams
 
From my understanding rods almost always fail from stretching not compression forces. The k1 are a lot lighter than the Lunati too. You don't happen to know what a stock rod and stockp piston weigh do you.

True that, which is why I put the K1 through a pull test and not a push.
 
never had a motor implode

when you describe the rod failing is it really the rod (like the middle of it) or the connecting points (piston pin, rod bolts)?
 
Sometimes (most often) the bolts would let go. The metallurgy in those is vastly improved over what it once was.

Almost as often, about mid-point in the transition where the big-end is tapering down to the beam, they snapped there.

I don't remember too many on the small end, near the pin.

I've never seen a piston pin let go; the clips have come out and scored a cylinder badly, but a broken pin, no.
 
Last edited:
I looked at them when they were doing my engine but decided to go with Callie's rods.
 
I know Tony sells them but who is running them and at what power level?

We follow Tom where ever whatever he does, he is a wealth of knowledge, yes whether it matters or not we use them in the 800 hp roe , the 1000+ single turbo and others, tom sold out to wiesco, he has since moved on, since Im pretty sure you want call us, contact Tom mulnar at mulnar rods
he started a new company new rods so forth, he will help you in any way he can, so far his new rods are going in all of our builds, he will accomidate you in any way, all his rods go thru very strenuous testing, they have been used in engines up to around 2000+hp
 
Sometimes (most often) the bolts would let go. The metallurgy in those is vastly improved over what it once was.

Almost as often, about mid-point in the transition where the big-end is tapering down to the beam, they snapped there.

I don't remember too many on the small end, near the pin.

I've never seen a piston pin let go; the clips have come out and scored a cylinder badly, but a broken pin, no.

thanks for the lesson:rock:
 

Latest posts

Support Us

Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Back
Top