LEVELING KIT?

[SilvrSRT10]

this is actually what i found.

With a 2 inch block it does level the truck , but to me it looked almost a tad low in the rear with our large hoods and front end, but the truck was level.

so I had 1/4 inch cut off the blocks and it gave it a tad of rake, but made the entire truck look better.

Agree with you on the truck looking slightly lower in the rear with the 2" block. I can fit my hand in further between the top of the tire and fender at the front than at the rear. I'm going to get a 1.5" set of blocks and even if it gives it a slight rake, it's better than sitting low. It's barely noticeable, but I can tell.

 

[avcts]

I just wanted to thank you guys for posting that diagram. I just had a custom set of Grade 8 ubolts made. Im having a set of the blocks made as well. They will done by tomorrow.

Im wondering, what is the concensus on maintaining the pinion angle? Now, if my trig serves me correctly, taking into consideration the drop of 1.5" and the length of the driveshaft, the pinion angle will decrease 1.6 degrees. I checked my math three times.

So, with that said(Typed), Im having a 1 degree taper machined into the block. Just to be on the safe side. Im not sure what I'm going to be charged to make these. Im thinking about 75 bucks. :dontknow:

Ill have before and after pictures with measurements. I will measure the pinion angle before and after. Who knows, I may have a few more sets made up once I get this all tested. I see there's alot of interest in this.

 

[Silverback]

I just wanted to thank you guys for posting that diagram. I just had a custom set of Grade 8 ubolts made. Im having a set of the blocks made as well. They will done by tomorrow.

Im wondering, what is the concensus on maintaining the pinion angle? Now, if my trig serves me correctly, taking into consideration the drop of 1.5" and the length of the driveshaft, the pinion angle will decrease 1.6 degrees. I checked my math three times.

So, with that said(Typed), Im having a 1 degree taper machined into the block. Just to be on the safe side. Im not sure what I'm going to be charged to make these. Im thinking about 75 bucks. :dontknow:

Ill have before and after pictures with measurements. I will measure the pinion angle before and after. Who knows, I may have a few more sets made up once I get this all tested. I see there's alot of interest in this.

What's critical is that the transmission tail shaft and the rear end pinion shaft are at the same angle. All the lowering blocks are doing is moving the rear end assembly in a planner direction without any angle change.

You do not want the pinion shaft pointed at the transmission so the angle that you have milled into the lowering blocks is incorrect.

Make sense?:dontknow:

 

[BIG NANA]

Hey, I've got the kit I bought before I got xmetals, It is the 1" front and 2" rear blocks, ubolts and springs I'll sell you for 200.00. Never was bolted on and I still have the boxes. You don't want to go any lower on a RC, the QC's can go 4" to equal the same drop as the 2" for the rear.

 

[avcts]

I see what you are saying. But, I am having the taper milled to move the pinion downward 1 degree. Not upwards towards the tranny output shaft. Im concerned with maintaining the angle between the Driveshaft and the pinion. If you draw a triangle out and look at the angle adjacent to the right angle, this is the angle of the pinion in relation to the drive shaft. (Drive shaft is 55.5" and distance from the center of the drive shaft to the body is 14.25". This is approximate but im sure is close). If you reduce the adjacent side by 1.5", you will increase that angle 1.6 degrees. Now thats the angle inside the triangle. Draw a circle around that angle. The angle opposite that relationship decreases 1.6 degrees (Pinion to driveshaft). This is why I want to move the pinion down one degree.

Am I over thinking this?:hmmmm2:

 

[Silverback]

I see what you are saying. But, I am having the taper milled to move the pinion downward 1 degree. Not upwards towards the tranny output shaft. Im concerned with maintaining the angle between the Driveshaft and the pinion. If you draw a triangle out and look at the angle adjacent to the right angle, this is the angle of the pinion in relation to the drive shaft. (Drive shaft is 55.5" and distance from the center of the drive shaft to the body is 14.25". This is approximate but im sure is close). If you reduce the adjacent side by 1.5", you will increase that angle 1.6 degrees. Now thats the angle inside the triangle. Draw a circle around that angle. The angle opposite that relationship decreases 1.6 degrees (Pinion to driveshaft). This is why I want to move the pinion down one degree.

Am I over thinking this?:hmmmm2:

Yes, you are.

Well hell. I tried to upload a PowerPoint file to show you what I'm driving at, but can't do it.

I think I have a site at work that explains it. If so I will post it in the morning.

The main thing is that if the two shafts are not at the same angle, the drive shaft does not want to spin around it's centerline.

 

[SilvrSRT10]

Many have installed an untapered set of blocks without any problems or adverse affects. The axle sat on the springs at a particular angle. All the blocks do is move it up 1.5 to 2 inches and maintains the correct angle. The only angle that's been changes it the relation of the drive-shaft u-joint is slightly shallower. But the change to each u-joint is the same. Does that help? I think I sprained my brain.

 

[avcts]

Im sitting here with my trig table open and a drawing. I definately know what you are saying. The pinion angle will not change when lowered. Thats a fact. Driveshaft length will not change. It is constant. Only change is the adjacent side or the ride height. The way Im thinking is take an angle meter, from home depot, and put it on the driveshaft near the pinion. Lets says its 7 degrees from level or your driveway. Now, remove the drive shaft and check your pinion's true angle the same way. Its pointing down at five degrees. Im exaggerating. Add them up and subtract them from 180. This is your true pinion angle. You now drop your truck 1.5". Your pinion angle has not changed but you notice that the driveshaft is now about 5.5 degrees. Add them up and subtract them from 180. You now notice the actual true pinion angle has increased. So you would decrease it by the amount in the first measurement. Only way is to move the pinion angle downward to increase that angle back to were it was.

No sh!t, I think i need to get a life.... :banghead: :boring:

 

[avcts]

Silver SRT10 - Yes...that makes sense.

I think I need to go watch TV or something.

Should I call the machinist and tell him NOT to taper?

 

[SilvrSRT10]

Im sitting here with my trig table open and a drawing. I definately know what you are saying. The pinion angle will not change when lowered. Thats a fact. Driveshaft length will not change. It is constant. Only change is the adjacent side or the ride height. The way Im thinking is take an angle meter, from home depot, and put it on the driveshaft near the pinion. Lets says its 7 degrees from level or your driveway. Now, remove the drive shaft and check your pinion's true angle the same way. Its pointing down at five degrees. Im exaggerating. Add them up and subtract them from 180. This is your true pinion angle. You now drop your truck 1.5". Your pinion angle has not changed but you notice that the driveshaft is now about 5.5 degrees. Add them up and subtract them from 180. You now notice the actual true pinion angle has increased. So you would decrease it by the amount in the first measurement. Only way is to move the pinion angle downward to increase that angle back to were it was.

No sh!t, I think i need to get a life.... :banghead: :boring:

Yeah, but the angle has changed at the transmission end too. Probably by the same amount. So as long as all things change equally. Life is good. I really don't see how a 1 or 2 degree taper could hurt. I just don't think the drive-train is that temperamental to that minimal a change. I could be wrong (it happened once before). If your machinist has already made them then just run them and see if it causes a vibration but I seriously doubt you'll notice any difference from stock.

 

[Silverback]

Here you go.


http://www.roddingroundtable.com/tech/articles/driveline.html

And if you want to read a bunch, try this one.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q="driveline+angles"

 

[avcts]

Thanks. I actually have read a few of those links.

The blocks will be done today without any taper. What Im going to do is measure the angles before and after. If its severe, I will have the blocks milled with a taper to offset.

Again, thinking about this during sleep, the pinion angle will decrease when lowering. We cant just consider the static pinion angle. I guess we also have to consider the pinion angle when the driveshaft is in rotation under a load. This moves the pinion upwards. Conversely, the pinion is downward when braking.

Why am I worring about this stuff you ask? I drag race on occasion. Out of whack pinion angles when launching (under load) will either cause excessive ujoint wear/breakage and can effect overall traction. This is leaving vibration out of it....

 

[Silverback]

Thanks. I actually have read a few of those links.

The blocks will be done today without any taper. What Im going to do is measure the angles before and after. If its severe, I will have the blocks milled with a taper to offset.

Again, thinking about this during sleep, the pinion angle will decrease when lowering. We cant just consider the static pinion angle. I guess we also have to consider the pinion angle when the driveshaft is in rotation under a load. This moves the pinion upwards. Conversely, the pinion is downward when braking.

Why am I worring about this stuff you ask? I drag race on occasion. Out of whack pinion angles when launching (under load) will either cause excessive ujoint wear/breakage and can effect overall traction. This is leaving vibration out of it....

Lowering it with blocks does not change the pinion angle, as it's moving in a plane level with the ground. Also, you always measure this when it's in a static loaded condition. That way as the suspension moves through it's slight arc, it will not be extream one direction or the other.

 

[SilvrSRT10]

Lowering it with blocks does not change the pinion angle, as it's moving in a plane level with the ground. Also, you always measure this when it's in a static loaded condition. That way as the suspension moves through it's slight arc, it will not be extreme one direction or the other.

If I'm not confused, the pinion angle would be the same whether it's a 1" drop or 10" drop. The only angle that is changing is the U-joint. The higher you raise the rear end, the shallower the u-joint angle becomes until it is even with the transmission then everything would be in a straight line (horizontally).
If you draw a horizontal line through the transmission and another through the rear end, the key is that they remain parallel. The further apart the parallel lines are the steeper the driveshaft angle becomes and the closer, the shallower.
Am I seeing things too simplistically??

 

[avcts]

If I'm not confused, the pinion angle would be the same whether it's a 1" drop or 10" drop. The only angle that is changing is the U-joint. The higher you raise the rear end, the shallower the u-joint angle becomes until it is even with the transmission then everything would be in a straight line (horizontally).
If you draw a horizontal line through the transmission and another through the rear end, the key is that they remain parallel. The further apart the parallel lines are the steeper the driveshaft angle becomes and the closer, the shallower.
Am I seeing things too simplistically??

Yes. Thats correct. I should have stated the pinion to driveshaft angle and NOT just the pinion angle. When you lower or raise, the Pinion to Driveshaft angle WILL change. Thats what I meant. Sorry about that!

 

[Silverback]

If I'm not confused, the pinion angle would be the same whether it's a 1" drop or 10" drop. The only angle that is changing is the U-joint. The higher you raise the rear end, the shallower the u-joint angle becomes until it is even with the transmission then everything would be in a straight line (horizontally).
If you draw a horizontal line through the transmission and another through the rear end, the key is that they remain parallel. The further apart the parallel lines are the steeper the driveshaft angle becomes and the closer, the shallower.
Am I seeing things too simplistically??

Nope, you have it. :rock:

The driveline to pinion angle is irrellevent. You should not try to maintain that angle when you raise or lower a vehicle.

 

[avcts]

Guys,

For anyone who cares. I installed the blocks. I did not have the blocks milled with a taper. Before the drop, the driveway to the fender measurement was 36.75". After the drop it measured 35.5". I checked it twice. Again, using 1.5" lowering blocks. This measurement was taken in the exact same spot in the driveway as a reference. I also measured the driveshaft angle. 5 degrees before and 4 degrees after the drop. My Home depot POS is as close as im going to measure without a accurate inclinometer. So, I would say my trig was correct. I drove it just around the block. Maybe hitting 90 once. Seems just fine to me. I like the way it looks. Pics attached. Thanks for all of your help! :shakehands:

:beerglass: :beer: arty:

 

[SilvrSRT10]

Looking good. You've got the right color too. Sits much nicer looking level than before.:rock:

 

[Silverback]

:congrats: :congrats: :congrats: :congrats: :congrats:

Looks good except for the silver part. :rock:

 

[SilvrSRT10]

:congrats: :congrats: :congrats: :congrats: :congrats:

Looks good except for the silver part. :rock:

Banana Breath........