Looks like a rear main seal. How to?

[Bravo]

04RC 3,300 miles.
Had the truck on the lift to put on some baby step mods (Bassani shorties and magnaflow cat-back), and noticed some oil leaks: Now I know why I had that fried clutch sandwich smell last launch.......
1) the cooler lines. Fittings on the block are leaking. Hoping a little tightening will help.
2) Appears to be rear main seal. Damp around the bellhousing. Removed the inspection cover and .....shit....wet black clutch bits and golden oil up high.

The dealers here are not viper techs. I really don't trust them. I'll just get the truck back with a gob of permatex and a few new door dings from their lift. The local dealers give all techs a bad name. Thank God for this site.

Techy questions.
Tranny removal. how to disconnect slave line? Shifter....remove from underneath ok?
Rear main. Does it come mounted to the plate like gen 2 or do you install it into the plate? Oil pan removal required (sure doesn't look it)?
Do you need to undo the mounts to rock the engine back to remove the bellhousing? or is there clearance to tilt it back a smidge without fearing the damper hitting the rad, etc.
Any known tricks? I'll replace the clutch, but should I do a slave update too and can you update the slave without the clutch master?

Thanks for any and all help. I'm going to do it. Just want to hit it eyes wide open.
-Jeff

BTW - the exhaust manifold to cat bolts on the stock exhaust hurt me. No ox for the torch, so penetrating lube only and those wimpy rusty MF'n clip nuts just made it harder than it has to be. Lots of new swear words....

 

[RedSrt007]

Remove shifter from top (read shifter review for how-to), remove driveshaft (mark caps to pinion to reinstall properly), then drop transmission (read clutch review for how-to).


TO disconnect the slave, there it a clear round clip, press that inward (towards pass-side) while pushing IN the hydraulic line, then pull back and it should come off (quick-disconnect).

I would recommend the centerforce clutch kit w/ viper master & slave while your doing a clutch kit. (contact X-Metal for that).

Torque to proper specs, bleed hydraulics (pickup some motul 600 fluid), and call it a day.

Oh yeah, replace tranny fluid w/ some Mobil 1 Full Synthetic ATF (search for 'atf')
-Red

 

[mauiSRT/10]

The dealers here are not viper techs. I really don't trust them. I'll just get the truck back with a gob of permatex and a few new door dings from their lift. The local dealers give all techs a bad name. Thank God for this site.
.

You must have been to my dealer! Having a black truck, your just screwed because every little BS scratch shows up like a neon sign!!! And of course you never really see them until you get home and wash the truck.

Good luck with the seal, I am assuming your doing the seal change when you change out your clutch? Only makes sense. I would definatly change out to the viper master slave. Stock one sometimes wont move the centerforce clutch as per Red007. Boomer and Roe both sell the complete kit in case you didnt know.

Good luck
patrick

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

For petes sake, quit telling everyone to use mobil atf, it doesnt have the correct viscocity

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

Bravo if ya need pages for this out of the manual I can try to print them out and or email them to you if Im capable or mail the pages to ya, just pm if your interested, its really a super easy job, easier than you would expect.'
I'll check back tommorow,

 

[Marc T]

For petes sake, quit telling everyone to use mobil atf, it doesnt have the correct viscocity

I will be changing mine out soon! What should we be using, besides the gear oil recommended by DC??:dontknow:

 

[RedSrt007]

For petes sake, quit telling everyone to use mobil atf, it doesnt have the correct viscocity

Call me today stinker, I wasn't able to call ya back yesterday....

Wow, that was a bolt statement...

Oil Viscosity is a measurement of its shear strength.
The properties and viscosity of the Mobile 1 has a better numbers then the Castrol Syntorq 75w85w:

Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF

Viscosity, ASTM D 445 cSt @ 40º C 34 cSt @ 100º C 7.6 Brookfield Viscosity, ASTM D 5293 -cP @ -40º C5190Viscosity Index, ASTM D 2270 199 Pour Point, ºC, ASTM D 97 -54 Flash Point, ºC, ASTM D 92 236 Density @15º C kg/l, ASTM D 4052 0.86 ColorRed

OR

http://www.ttcautomotive.com/english/products/T-56.asp

From the Tremec Website, download the service manual for the T56 Viper service Manual - "DO NOT USE GEAR OIL IN THE T56 TRANSMISSION SINCE THIS MAY DAMAGE THE BLOCKING RING MATERIAL"

Cantrol Syntorq is considered a "Gear Oil" due to its viscosity levels. Feel free to call them, I did...

Also refer to 1-1-3 of the service manual from Tremec "Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF)"
_______________________________________________________

Feel free to call Tremec or T56rebuilds and ask for yourself :

T56Rebuilds.com
Business Hours:
Monday - Thursday: 9am - 5pm

Friday: 9am - 3pm

Saturday: By appointment

Sunday: By appointment​

Contact Information
(713)937-4411 Office Direct
(832)488-0533 cell direct

They rebuild a lot of trannys for these trucks, and are VERY good.

If you want to use syntorq gear oil, then go for it, but please don't tell me to quit telling people not to use it. Until I get Proof (aka written documentation from tremec) that Syntorq is what needs to go in, I will use what Tremec says to use. Tony, Im not making this stuff up, Ive done weeks of research and called many places.

-Patrick
​

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

I was refering to using Redline d4 atf it is a better product and is about 30% thicker than mobil atf. The mobil is too thin and doesnt have the shock abosorption that our heavy trucks will need. Too many viper owners out there making over 1200hp have converted to redline.

I really dont need to call anyone, I've been working on this automotive junk since I was 12, so almost 30 years now, but thanks.

 

[RedSrt007]

I see, I thought you were referring to Castrol vs Mobil, not Mobil vs Redline...My bad. Between those two :dontknow: haven't researched it...But redline does make a good fluid :rock:

I wasn't doubting your knowledge tony, just a miscommunication / misunderstanding and I appologize if you took it in an offensive way :rock:

-Seeya

-Red

 

[TheMoparConnection]

04RC 3,300 miles.
Had the truck on the lift to put on some baby step mods (Bassani shorties and magnaflow cat-back), and noticed some oil leaks: Now I know why I had that fried clutch sandwich smell last launch.......
1) the cooler lines. Fittings on the block are leaking. Hoping a little tightening will help.
2) Appears to be rear main seal. Damp around the bellhousing. Removed the inspection cover and .....shit....wet black clutch bits and golden oil up high.

The dealers here are not viper techs. I really don't trust them. I'll just get the truck back with a gob of permatex and a few new door dings from their lift. The local dealers give all techs a bad name. Thank God for this site.

Techy questions.
Tranny removal. how to disconnect slave line? Shifter....remove from underneath ok?
Rear main. Does it come mounted to the plate like gen 2 or do you install it into the plate? Oil pan removal required (sure doesn't look it)?
Do you need to undo the mounts to rock the engine back to remove the bellhousing? or is there clearance to tilt it back a smidge without fearing the damper hitting the rad, etc.
Any known tricks? I'll replace the clutch, but should I do a slave update too and can you update the slave without the clutch master?

Thanks for any and all help. I'm going to do it. Just want to hit it eyes wide open.
-Jeff

BTW - the exhaust manifold to cat bolts on the stock exhaust hurt me. No ox for the torch, so penetrating lube only and those wimpy rusty MF'n clip nuts just made it harder than it has to be. Lots of new swear words....

you'll need to get the cooler lines replaced. tightening probably not going to cure it. there have been small issues with them leaking

 

[Bravo]

Thanks Stink....got the pages.

Bravo if ya need pages for this out of the manual I can try to print them out and or email them to you if Im capable or mail the pages to ya, just pm if your interested, its really a super easy job, easier than you would expect.'
I'll check back tommorow,

Cooler lines are leaking at the joint where the rubber crimps to the metal. Seems like a trend based on some other posts.

Re: Rear main seal.....The manual says that it is serviced as a unit with the plate, yet the parts list shows it as a separate rubber ring with no detail at all as to replacing the seal itself.
Could be confusing if it is indeed separate and not bonded to the plate such as adhesives, orientation, etc. Have you replaced one without replacing the plate as a unit?
Thanks again.
-J

 

[Stingray]

Cooler lines are leaking at the joint where the rubber crimps to the metal. Seems like a trend based on some other posts.

GM has the same problems with their engine and trans cooler lines.

Re: Rear main seal.....The manual says that it is serviced as a unit with the plate, yet the parts list shows it as a separate rubber ring with no detail at all as to replacing the seal itself.
Could be confusing if it is indeed separate and not bonded to the plate such as adhesives, orientation, etc. Have you replaced one without replacing the plate as a unit?
Thanks again.
-J

I would think that you can replace just the seal if it can be ordered. Replacing the whole plate with the seal is the 'better' way do it, there is less of a chance of the seal being incorrectly installed. But it's more work. If it was my truck, I would just try replacing the seal only. Just pay close attention to how deep the seal is intalled into the plate before you remove it.