Loss of power...

NightRunnerRC

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Kinda scratching my head on this one, i hope it isnt bad.

Took the truck out for a short drive today, getting on it a tad. Started hearing a very soft screeching like sound, thought it may have been the tires slipping a little because acceleration wasnt quite as normal. Kept testing it for about another 5 min, and finally decided to get home b/c something obviously wasnt right.

On the way back i took it easy, but downshifted and slightly hit the gas and hardly nothing. Truck revs fine, just doesnt move! Each gear the same way. Got it parked, popped the hood, nothing abnormal sounding. No codes thrown, all gauges read correct.

I thought i may have broke something in the driveline, however i didnt hear anything shatter or pop, quick visual inspection seems fine, getting dark out. I am at a loss on what this could be. Anything engine related should pop a code i assume. Any ideas? :dontknow:

edit: 33k on the truck
 
shifts fine, no different than before. no fluids or anything leaking that i can see. i left it running to look under and in the rear i had a very strong smell, petrol related, but alot stronger than normal

edit: ok about the clutch....btw this is my first manual transmission vehicle. doesnt have any burning smell. any other tell tell signs?
 
sounds like striped out axel splines and /or spider gears. .Just saying .;)
 
You will need to start by pulling the transmission. Probably fried the pressure plate last time out.
 
Sounds like you have been a burn out Queen ,Clutch or rear-end,only thing it can be . ;)
 
Actually not to many burnouts, but like i said this is my first manual ive ever owned...always seemed to have auto, and after the burning smells i have had, i kinda was waiting for it. But after reading about it the past few hours, that seems to be what it is. Down to all the signs and noises. SO.....

Anyone wanna recommend parts? Would like to get a better setup, been looking at jmb and jtsvp.

How much would the labor on this cost? Im just damn glad it isnt the motor...
 
A slipping clutch will show up first in the higher gears (3rd to 6th)
Fixed one truck that sheared all the ring gear bolts in the rear differential. Amazingly it made no noise or had any other damage
 
A slipping clutch will show up first in the higher gears (3rd to 6th)
Fixed one truck that sheared all the ring gear bolts in the rear differential. Amazingly it made no noise or had any other damage

well thats where i noticed it first, 4th, then down to 3rd. Any tests i can do before bringing to a shop? driveshaft connections look ok
 
Have you been holding the truck stopped on a hill with the clutch? (keep it from rolling backward)
How about driving around with your left foot resting on the clutch pedal? (riding the clutch)
How much free play does clutch pedal have? it's the amount of travel the clutch pedal has before operating the clutch.
 
Try to start out from a stop in 4th gear. Have someone watch the drive shaft (from the side).
See what happens when the motor revs up.
Driveshaft spinning = some type of rear diff damage
Driveshaft not spinning = clutch
 
another thing, when i first get in the truck, as today. it is so hard to shift into gears....have to force it pretty hard. seems as the truck warms up, its easier.

there is a steep drive around my normal commute waiting for traffic, and yes i do tend to do that sometimes. i have also noticed myself hovering the clutch, maybe resting when getting from 1-3.
 
That's definitely the clutch! Beside slipping the clutch is not releasing all the way that's why you can't get it in the gear when your stopped. If you shut the motor off it should go right into gear.
 
there is a steep drive around my normal commute waiting for traffic, and yes i do tend to do that sometimes. i have also noticed myself hovering the clutch, maybe resting when getting from 1-3.[/QUOTE]
Yea, stop doing that it gets expensive.
 
It does go right into gear when the the engine is off. Guess its on to new parts...would you recommend centerforce or go back OEM?

and should i change the slave and flywheel while everythings out?
 
I ended up replacing my flywheel along with the clutch when the motor was out. The slave (stock) was replaced 2,000 miles before that due to a leak so I left it alone.

A lot of it depends on what you want to spend. I would not go nuts unless you have big horse power.
 
I reccomend the Viper hydro package from JMB, and I went with a Spec stage 2+ after hearing many different things. If you want a package, Justin's package with the Centerforce is a great setup. I just decided to do a Spec instead. Absolutely upgrade your hydro's while it is apart, or you will regret it later
 
ok, had it checked out today. was told that i cratered the rear catalytic converter. Guess it makes sense...no back pressure, engine bogs.

Do our 10's have special catalytic converters or just regular ones from the ram?
 
It isn't the no backpressure part, It lterally collapsed or clogged creating roo much back pressure. Our trucks benefit from having the rear cats removed completely.
 

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