The front
You have to remove the front coil spring
removal
raise and support truck safely
put a floor jack under the lower control arm(doin one side at a time)
remove sway bar links and shock
remove bolt from tie rod, put pressure on tie rod as if trying to pry out, hit hit spindle with hammer to pop out tie rod.
same with lower ball joint bolt , pry upwards on spindle and hit area of ball joint to pop loose, move spindle to one side.
remove coil spring
cutting coil spring
now this is VERY important
I cut one entire coil from spring, this makes the truck sit right on top of tire, problems , this low it may and probably will hit inner fender on large dips at hwy speeds, PLUS shocks will be at the limit and could bottom out
3/4 round will only be about 1/4 to 1/2 inch higher. if you go 1 full round remeber it may hit, and shorter shocks should be bought.
I used a 5 inch grinder with a metal cutting blade, and then also be sure to paint the cut end.And then after installing have it aligned and drive for awhile the front end will settle a tad from initial measurements.
Also the stock bump stop assembly will need to be removed and cut off, in place get a 1/2 tall bumpstop sometimes found at pep boys,drill a small hole in lower control arm at contact point and install new bump stop.
reinstall tie rod and ball joint bolts and tighten to trq specs
the sway bar link needs to be shortened for best stability.
One of two things, easiest and best.. Call Justin and get a new link. or cut them and have them rewelded.
But please remember and I cannot stress it enough if you go a full coil , you will most likely hit the inner fender at hwy speeds, it will be super close.
The way I did it was I started at a 1/2 coil drove it checked it went to 3/4 then full.
but all trucks are different thats why I suggest doing the same, and dont worry, you will get tons quicker at the coil removal.
NOTE; please be sure to tighten the tie rods and ball joints, if you dont feel comfortable with this, have a profeesional do it, you life defends on it!!
the rear
Installing blocks is fairy easy,
Raise and support the rear of the truck by the frame rails, put floor jack under the axle , remove u bolts and lower shock bolts.
install new blocks and bolts. then shocks
Remember the sway bar links will need to be done the same.
also the rear bump stop on the frame will need to be cut down.
ok block sizes
with one full coil I ran a 3 inch block, with a 3 inch block you will run into the shocks not having much travel, PLUS the driveshaft will not have much travel inside the tranny. thats why I changed my blocks back to 2 inch
At most I think 2 1/2 block would do, yuou can run the 3 , I did for a long long time with no problems.but trucks are different.
I have a 2 inch installed in the pic, but fixin to order a 2 1/2
and honestly for the price and looks I would order them from Steve Holden SLH motorsports, for $125 and the looks its hard to beat.
YOU can buy the cast blocks, or the aluminum hollow blocks, but I REALLY dont suggest it, I have cracked and broken many many of thos in the past.
The solid aluminum blocks are 100 times safer:rock:
Just remember guys , the ride will be affected, eventually shocks willl be needed, the sway bar links will need to be adjusted, the bump stops will need trimmining and replaced,
This is the way I done mine, all trucks are different, so take your time do it right, because if you go too far there is no backing up on the coil spring
and the coil will settle 1/4 to 1/2 inch after a hundred or so miles.
Oh and if you go one coil or 3/4 coil the upper arm mounts may have to be slotted to allow alignment, but any good alignment shop should be capable of this, and dont scrimp on the alignment, have a really good shop do it.
Also if we can get a bump stop kit, I would highly suggest one of these also.
if anyone starts to do this , let me know, and you can call while doin it and will watch for the call, you should be able to do it in one full day.
