Lowered the 10

Sammy11

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few days ago the 10 was in the shop for oil change and they replaced my OEM front springs for the RC springs.
normaly Tony (stinker) sayd it would drop approx. 1 to 1.5inch.
it dropped almost 3inch...:confused: :dontknow:
tony thinks that they forgot to place the oem spacers back in.

now , the back is already lowered with the shackles , but as you can see the truck is totaly out of balance...:(

any info is welcome.

see the before and after pictures , sorry for the after pic , truck is dirty because it rains here for almost a week...:eek:

BEFORE
P1000169.jpg


AFTER
srtrcsprings.jpg
 
Doesn't look "too" bad, nothing to worry about mate. Also, the truck looks like it's sitting on uneven ground in that photo, the rear tire looks like it's in a "dip" so it's exagerated the difference a little more. Mine was a tad too low in the front after I got Tony's springs AND 45 series tires. The 45 series sidewall of the tires pushed the boundaries just a little and it caused the tire to hit the inner fender top on the RH side. Looking at your photo and your measurements, I would get a 1" to 1.5" (depending on what you can get locally) firm (industrial strength) rubber spacer cut to match the inner and outer diameter of the OEM spacer and place that up top of the spring. I did and now my truck sits perfectly (in my eye) and doesn't rub, it has a slight rake and is lowered all around. Good luck!
 
Carlwalski said:
I would get a 1" to 1.5" (depending on what you can get locally) firm (industrial strength) rubber spacer cut to match the inner and outer diameter of the OEM spacer and place that up top of the spring. Good luck!
do u have a picture of the spacer u are thinking of ?
can i buy it at the dealershop OEM ?
i realy dont know how this would look , and where to get one...:dontknow:
 
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I just had a look in the garage and found the centre piece. I don't have any photos of the actual spacers as they are now in place. The big thick rubber part below is/was the centre piece that fell out. The spacers I am using are that same thickness. Just go to any local rubber store (industrial will offer larger thicknesses) and tell them what you are wanting, if they don't know they'll point you in the right direction. The spacer I had cut is identical in size to the OEM spacer, just thicker and much more rigid. You can bend it but it takes a fair amount of force. You can use what ever you find, just make sure it's firm and can be cut to the right size (like the OEM spacer). I had my rubber water jet cut so it was precise. I removed my OEM spacers up front and just used 1 of the spacers I had made on each side. The rubber spacer I used is just over 2 OEM spacers thick. Hope it helps you somewhat.


The rubber placed inside the spacer is the cutout remains from my spacer.
Spacer1.jpg


Comparing thicknesses.......
Spacer2.jpg


Another shot showing the thickness differences.
Spacer3.jpg
 
I believe you need to order the blocks that go along with the rear shackles in Tony's kit. Shackles alone are not going to give you the results you want.
 
outnumbered said:
I believe you need to order the blocks that go along with the rear shackles in Tony's kit. Shackles alone are not going to give you the results you want.
Good point! Sammy - I'm only talking about raising the front a tad to fix that massive rake. I hadn't considered that you may want to dump the rear. Looks like you need 2" blocks in the rear, Tony can help you. But, first of all, what are you wanting to address mate? Do you want the front higher to match the rear, are you wanting to lower the rear to match the front or do you want to lower the rear and slightly raise the front?? LOL
 
I would lower the rear a bit more if I were you Sammy:p

And do I see soms nightrunner headlights right there...
 
I would lower the rear a bit more if I were you Sammy:p

And do I see soms nightrunner headlights and powdercoted rims right there...
 
Agree with the above...a raked look just does not (IMO) seem appropriate. The low level style seems to be what most of us try to achieve...

How does it ride and turn as it is???
 
You can't add blocks in the rear on a quad cab,you either have to do a flip kit and put the rear axel under the leaf pack or de-arched the springs.
 
Yellow venom said:
you either have to do a flip kit and put the rear axel under the leaf pack or de-arched the springs.
i cant do the flip kit and rear axle under leafpack.
then i cant pass the technical controlecenter that we have here every year...:mad:
fyi , my truck drives on Liquid Propane Gas , so there is an extra 180 liter (when its full) of it in the back of the truck , and the gas weight approx. 200 pounds.
the blocks i like , is it possible to do the blocks for an extra 2" drop in the rear without issues of axle wrap and vibrations ?

just took 2 extra pictures wile the rain stopped for a moment...:eek:

2-1.jpg


3-1.jpg
 
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outnumbered said:
I believe you need to order the blocks that go along with the rear shackles in Tony's kit. Shackles alone are not going to give you the results you want.
does the blocks work on a 2006 ?
i believe there where several issues on the 2006 like vibrations and axle wrap.
or is this only with the lowering kit from Tony that only works on a 2005...?
 
The rear tires look like they are sitting a little forward in the wheel wells (unless it is just the angle). I would jack it up and loosen everything up, get everything lined up, and then retighten everything.
 
Sammy11 said:
does the blocks work on a 2006 ?
i believe there where several issues on the 2006 like vibrations and axle wrap.
or is this only with the lowering kit from Tony that only works on a 2005...?

That I don't know. If you can't do the blocks (part of the flip kit), have you tried removing the load spring? That will lower the rear a bit.
 
amtrucker22 said:
The rear tires look like they are sitting a little forward in the wheel wells (unless it is just the angle). I would jack it up and loosen everything up, get everything lined up, and then retighten everything.
what do u exactly mean loosen up ?
only thing that was done there where the shackles.
oh and i have 45 series on it now.
 
there are NO blocks that go on the rear UNLESS you do a flip kit the leaf spring rides on top of the axle what a block is gonna do is raise the ass end up what is so confusing about that?
 
505'sFastestViper. said:
there are NO blocks that go on the rear UNLESS you do a flip kit the leaf spring rides on top of the axle what a block is gonna do is raise the ass end up what is so confusing about that?


Thats what I was saying too Dom:D ,the only option there is since you already have the drop shackles is Hotchkis made a lowering rear leaf spring kit,not sure if they are still available:dontknow: or take out the overload spring,but then your packing propane.
Reason you can use blocks on a RC is the leafsprings are under the rear axel and the leaf springs are on top of the axel on a QC so if you put blocks in a QC you just going to lift the rear end.
 
You can take off the rear overload leaf spring and that will give you about another 1-2" rear drop. Its really easy to do.
 
Sammy you could take the overload out. It will lower about an inch. It is very easy and reversible.

I would then go to a 305/45 tire that will fill the rear wheel well up better.

Then add bags so you can still tow. With your tank back there i believe you could get a great drop! You will need bags if you want to tow or haul anything heavy in the bed.
 

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