Make your automatic live longer

Adjust the bands.........

put a worked vlv body with new gov solenoid

after market 4.2 lever that is billet

servo blocker

red clutches

new pan

mine shifts like a monster! and i haven't even put the stage 2 back in yet. :) www.htstransmission.com is who hooked me up.
 
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Not to sound like an idiot but don't diesels put down more torque than gas motors. So they should have made these to handle the pressure of a 125 shot of nos?
 
I have a question about using synthetic oil! All I hear is DON'T use synthetic because it cause the clutches to slip! Is it too slippery or why do the tranny shops say this??
 
they are strong FASTFOOD the problem is with NOS, the deisals dont have quick line pressure response or the need for it, when they transfered the tranny to ours, it was never addressed therefor with nos the problem occurs, the tranny cannot kick up the line pressure quick enough for the trq of the viper engine.

The tranny is allready using synthetic, ATF+4 is synthetic, its just the older tranny's had a different material of clutch and those would slip
 
Remember yall this tranny is the same basic design that was used in the elephants fo the 60's and 70's.......................
 
My suggestion will make your auto last almost forever with zero failures..........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
pull it out and replace with a six speed ( a Tremec T56 works nicely) and set the auto in the shop and cover with an oily rag.It will last practically forever and have zero failures and you will enjoy the manual six so much more the extra work to get it in will be soon forgotten.;) :D

Just had to post something :D
 
Stinker said:
they are strong FASTFOOD the problem is with NOS, the deisals dont have quick line pressure response or the need for it, when they transfered the tranny to ours, it was never addressed therefor with nos the problem occurs, the tranny cannot kick up the line pressure quick enough for the trq of the viper engine.

The tranny is allready using synthetic, ATF+4 is synthetic, its just the older tranny's had a different material of clutch and those would slip


While I claim to not know 1/100th of what you guys do, under this statement if one could increase the line pressure say through a custom tune would this solve the issue?

What I woud like to see is this...

To make your tranny stronger you will need
stronger second gear band Part number XXXX from vendor XXXX
Bigger pan from vendor XXXX part XXXX

Reading the forums a few people said that better governors will help? Maybe someone can track down a part and add it to the list...?
 
Eddie is working on the governor deal, the second band I dont think is a problem as well as the band.

and personally ,I am no auto tranny tech by no means,jsut do alot of listening and studying:D but from what I understand if the line pressure would increase "quicker" that should do alot to take care of the problem.

From what is understood , the problem mailnly exist with either big hp or use of NOS.
The nos hits hard and shoots the line pressure up too quickly for the tranny to react , thus letting the bands momentarily slip before engaging, and well we can figure what eventually happens after that:D
 
OK so bringing the line pressure up seems like it will help.
So this could be done by
a shift kit
or ECM flash or program

We on board with that?

Next would be a better governor (not that I know what that does :) )
OK waiting to hear back on what you find. Thanks for the great info!
 
Heat is your automatics worst enemy.

As Bone's chart showed;

For every 10 degrees over 212 the life of the trans fluid is cut in half;

At 212 degrees it is good for approx 100,000 miles

At 222 degrees it is good for approx 50,000 miles

At 232 degrees it is good for approx 25,000 miles

At 242 degrees it is good for approx 12,000 miles

At 252 degrees it is good for approx 6,000 miles

At 262 degrees it is good for approx 3,000 miles

At 272 degrees it is good for approx 1500 miles

At 282 degrees it is good for approx 700 miles

At 292 degrees it is good for approx 300 miles

At 302 degrees it is good for approx 150 miles, in reality it is dead and unless serviced immediatly, so is your transmission.

At 312 degrees it is good for approx 75 miles

At 322 degrees it is good for approx 37 miles

All that needs to happen is the temperature needs to get to that temperature once, and it's usefull life is over.

Also when you have any kind of slippage (slow shifts) the fluid temperature in the immediate area surrounding the band or clutch pack can spike to very high levels. (over 400 degrees) This again shortens the ATF life.

Keeping the transmission cool is critical to making the transmission "live".

Deep transmission pans, additional coolers run in series with the stock cooler are all helpful to keep transmission temperatures at reasonable levels

As was mentioned earlier in this thread, shift kits and frequent band adjustment all help.

These are heavy, high torque, high HP, HotRods and what works on your mistresses Rolls won't work on the QC trucks................;)

With that being said there is still no guarantee that something will not break, but I'll take my chances with regular maintenance and sensible modifications.

Not driving it like you stole it also helps. Everytime you put the pedal to the matt it is like pulling the pin out a little farther on a grenade.
This can and will give you a chance at reasonable transmission life.
 
FSTJACK said:
Heat is your automatics worst enemy.

As Bone's chart showed;

For every 10 degrees over 212 the life of the trans fluid is cut in half;

At 212 degrees it is good for approx 100,000 miles

At 222 degrees it is good for approx 50,000 miles

At 232 degrees it is good for approx 25,000 miles

At 242 degrees it is good for approx 12,000 miles

At 252 degrees it is good for approx 6,000 miles

At 262 degrees it is good for approx 3,000 miles

At 272 degrees it is good for approx 1500 miles

At 282 degrees it is good for approx 700 miles

At 292 degrees it is good for approx 300 miles

At 302 degrees it is good for approx 150 miles, in reality it is dead and unless serviced immediatly, so is your transmission.

At 312 degrees it is good for approx 75 miles

At 322 degrees it is good for approx 37 miles

All that needs to happen is the temperature needs to get to that temperature once, and it's usefull life is over.

Also when you have any kind of slippage (slow shifts) the fluid temperature in the immediate area surrounding the band or clutch pack can spike to very high levels. (over 400 degrees) This again shortens the ATF life.

Keeping the transmission cool is critical to making the transmission "live".

Deep transmission pans, additional coolers run in series with the stock cooler are all helpful to keep transmission temperatures at reasonable levels

As was mentioned earlier in this thread, shift kits and frequent band adjustment all help.

These are heavy, high torque, high HP, HotRods and what works on your mistresses Rolls won't work on the QC trucks................;)

With that being said there is still no guarantee that something will not break, but I'll take my chances with regular maintenance and sensible modifications.

Not driving it like you stole it also helps. Everytime you put the pedal to the matt it is like pulling the pin out a little farther on a grenade.
This can and will give you a chance at reasonable transmission life.

FOOLISHNESS....:p :rofl: :musicus: :dontknow: :rofl:

Don't know what got into me Jack... just wanted to say Hi:wavey:
I likey my Tremec:dontknow: as well.
 
shade said:
OK so bringing the line pressure up seems like it will help.
So this could be done by
a shift kit
or ECM flash or program

We on board with that?

Next would be a better governor (not that I know what that does :) )
OK waiting to hear back on what you find. Thanks for the great info!


From what I understand the valve body does alot with controlling line pressure, so with that a modified valve body would be great, a shift kit allows the line pressure to be increased also. allowing the bands to contact quicker.
now honestly dont know if the flash wouold help on line pressure, I know it controls alot of functions in the tranny, but not sure yet exactly what peramiters it does control
 
A shift kit will not address the plates not being machined correctly...........

A worked vlv body is the way to go. 375$ and the shift timings are improved, everything is re machined to near perfect tolerances
 
bigike said:
A shift kit will not address the plates not being machined correctly...........

A worked vlv body is the way to go. 375$ and the shift timings are improved, everything is re machined to near perfect tolerances


Have a vendor that supplies these?
 
FASTFOOD said:
Not to sound like an idiot but don't diesels put down more torque than gas motors. So they should have made these to handle the pressure of a 125 shot of nos?

heck no.....im only doing a MAX 400hp and mine is goin out like a mother.....

dodge fact #1 the auto trans suck......keep them as cool as possible
 
FASTFOOD said:
Not to sound like an idiot but don't diesels put down more torque than gas motors. So they should have made these to handle the pressure of a 125 shot of nos?

Acceleration(Aka Horsepower)...That's what kill the trannies. A cummins does not accelerate as fast as a Viper Motor...

Also the Horsepower and Torque curb is dramatically different...
 

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