Make your automatic live longer

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

This thread is dedicated to the longer life of the 48re

please post all your thoughts, experiences and such.

This is jsut a few suggestions and things that have been found out.

One to make your tranny live longer if you are naturally aspirated, change the fluid out at least every 15,000 miles, change the filter, fluid, and adjust the bands.



If you run NOS your tranny will eventually fail, basically any size shot 75 or over..
The tranny was developed for the diesals, therefore when the NOS hits, the line pressure in the tranny jsut cannot keep up , therefore letting the bands start slipping, ultimatly causing failure.

If you must run NOS, then it is suggested that you check your band adjustment every 5000 miles, and change your fluid every 5000 miles depending on how much you use the NOS.

A shift kit may also help with the life of the tranny, it lets the tranny shift quicker and harder. This lets the time from when the tranny shifts to the time the clutches hit the drum take less time, there fore cutting the time the clutch has to slip.

Also gonna look into valve bodies, I have been told that some valve bodies do actually let the line pressure actually react quicker.


any other suggestions, ideas, or experiences are welcome

Lets let this thread be dedicated to keeping our brothers from having expensive problems in the future:rock:

 

[shade]

Damn right! Good thread its the info I have been wanting to see

 

[Bone]

Bigger pan, hold more fluid, reduce temps. (PML, Mag-Hytec) Magnetic Dipstick too.

Trans temp directly proportional to trans life.

http://www.mag-hytec.com/products.htm

As the metallic components in transmissions and axles wear, they generate very fine particle debris that becomes suspended in the lubricating oil. A suspended magnet acts as a filter to contain these particles, keeping the fluid cleaner and extending component life. Periodic checking and cleaning of the magnet is recommended for maximum fluid service life.

Average of double the fluid capacity
Ease of Service
The dipstick is knurled for quick removal, the flat is marked low/high to check lube level and a magnet, which acts as an open filter is in the lower end. The MS 7/8 - 14 THD port is large enough to use for filling.
The magnet-filled drain plug is the same MS port as the dipstick. Both the dipstick and drain are O-ring sealed.
The sending unit fitting is 1/8 pipe THD and shipped with a stainless pipe plug.
The calibration plug is centered on the serial number plate and approximates the stock cover fill plug for factory fluid level.
The O-ring is snapped into the inverted "V" groove for a positive seal without gasket or silicon
Plugs, cap screws and washers are stainless steel in most applications.
Mag-Hytec manufactures the best covers and pans available today.

 

[AWDisuzu]

nice advice! I've been lucky to have never had a band issue even with the 175 shot of NOS. I think the tweak that Robert Buckley did to my tranny has prevented any band slippage or failure. The only problem I've had is the lousy 1-2 shift at light throttle, which has always been fixed quickly due to a bad transducer governor

~mike~

This thread is dedicated to the longer life of the 48re

please post all your thoughts, experiences and such.

This is jsut a few suggestions and things that have been found out.

One to make your tranny live longer if you are naturally aspirated, change the fluid out at least every 15,000 miles, change the filter, fluid, and adjust the bands.



If you run NOS your tranny will eventually fail, basically any size shot 75 or over..
The tranny was developed for the diesals, therefore when the NOS hits, the line pressure in the tranny jsut cannot keep up , therefore letting the bands start slipping, ultimatly causing failure.

If you must run NOS, then it is suggested that you check your band adjustment every 5000 miles, and change your fluid every 5000 miles depending on how much you use the NOS.

A shift kit may also help with the life of the tranny, it lets the tranny shift quicker and harder. This lets the time from when the tranny shifts to the time the clutches hit the drum take less time, there fore cutting the time the clutch has to slip.

Also gonna look into valve bodies, I have been told that some valve bodies do actually let the line pressure actually react quicker.


any other suggestions, ideas, or experiences are welcome

Lets let this thread be dedicated to keeping our brothers from having expensive problems in the future:rock:

 

[Brat]

Thanks for the advice Stink boy.

 

[BurntRubber]

I can tell you guys what not to do. Since these trannies are so stout I wanted to find out what it would feel like if while driving 10 mph you threw it into reverse...don't do it the tranny bogs and then grabs its worse than slamming the brakes

I actually did this in an old cadillac that I had doing about 40mph, made the weirdest clicking noise, out i back in drive and it was like nothing happened:dontknow:

 

[Bone]

Another article:
http://www.bestsynthetic.com/atf.shtml
Obviously article bias towards AMSOIL, but enforces temp effects.

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

Killer info Bone:rock:

Maybe if things work out, I can put together a small package of a shift kit, service kit, pan, and fluid, with instructions on band tightening.

but In everyones opinion, as far as heat transfer, fluid viscosity and such, which fluid would work best inthe tranny's?
I know its ATF+4, but I wonder if any do better than any others?

 

[jrgnd]

This thread is dedicated to the longer life of the 48re

please post all your thoughts, experiences and such.

This is jsut a few suggestions and things that have been found out.

One to make your tranny live longer if you are naturally aspirated, change the fluid out at least every 15,000 miles, change the filter, fluid, and adjust the bands.



If you run NOS your tranny will eventually fail, basically any size shot 75 or over..
The tranny was developed for the diesals, therefore when the NOS hits, the line pressure in the tranny jsut cannot keep up , therefore letting the bands start slipping, ultimatly causing failure.

If you must run NOS, then it is suggested that you check your band adjustment every 5000 miles, and change your fluid every 5000 miles depending on how much you use the NOS.

A shift kit may also help with the life of the tranny, it lets the tranny shift quicker and harder. This lets the time from when the tranny shifts to the time the clutches hit the drum take less time, there fore cutting the time the clutch has to slip.

Also gonna look into valve bodies, I have been told that some valve bodies do actually let the line pressure actually react quicker.


any other suggestions, ideas, or experiences are welcome

Lets let this thread be dedicated to keeping our brothers from having expensive problems in the future:rock:

BTW it doesn't matter how built you tranny is....Nitrous will kill it...It killed my $7000.00 tranny...

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

BTW it doesn't matter how built you tranny is....Nitrous will kill it...It killed my $7000.00 tranny...

You are where most of the info has come from buddy:rock:

 

[labontecsi]

Mine's at the dealership now getting the tranny and rear service. I'm in for a performance package for the next service.

 

[TheMoparConnection]

Killer info Bone:rock:

Maybe if things work out, I can put together a small package of a shift kit, service kit, pan, and fluid, with instructions on band tightening.

but In everyones opinion, as far as heat transfer, fluid viscosity and such, which fluid would work best inthe tranny's?
I know its ATF+4, but I wonder if any do better than any others?

ATF+4 is the only fluid you want to use in these trans. 1st it is a synthetic fluid, all other fluids will cause t/conv shudder and can also can failure to the trans. 2nd it will also void the trans warranty if any other fluid is used. It is very easy to tell weither its atf+4 or any other fluid. ATF+4 has a very unique smell (and taste) so if you do use something other than ATF+4 the trans tech at the dealer will know.

ps...thanks AWDIzusi... anytime... let me know if you need me to talk to Nate for ya...

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

ATF+4 is the only fluid you want to use in these trans. 1st it is a synthetic fluid, all other fluids will cause t/conv shudder and can also can failure to the trans. 2nd it will also void the trans warranty if any other fluid is used. It is very easy to tell weither its atf+4 or any other fluid. ATF+4 has a very unique smell (and taste) so if you do use something other than ATF+4 the trans tech at the dealer will know.

ps...thanks AWDIzusi... anytime... let me know if you need me to talk to Nate for ya...

I know we need to use ATF+4, but I am sure mobil, maybe royal purple, or others make a comparable product, and probably better, as far as warranty, most are getting close to being out

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

This is from the royal purple site, and the max ATF is comparable with ATF+4 plus can possibly drop tranny temps by 20 degrees


Max ATF is a synthetic, high-performance, automatic transmission fluid. Its low co-efficient of friction and high film strength help to dramatically reduce heat and wear. Additionally, Max ATF is more oxidation stable than other transmission fluids for longer fluid life.

Max ATF is recommended for a wide variety of transmissions. See our transmission lubricant cross reference chart for specific applications.

Automatic transmissions generate a great deal of heat and depend upon the transmission fluid for cooling and protection. More than 90 percent of all automatic transmission failures are caused by overheating; a 20°F reduction in fluid temperature can double the life of the transmission (Source: Perma Industries, Inc.). Max ATF significantly reduces heat to extend the life of your transmission.

Max ATF is fully compatible and can be mixed with other automatic transmission fluids; however, for the best results drain or flush the current oil and then fill with Max ATF.



Allison C-4, TES-295 Max ATF

Audi G-052-025-A2 Max ATF

Automatic Transmission - Type ‘H’ ATF Synchromax

BMW LA2634, BMW LT71141 Max ATF

Chrysler ATF+, ATF+2, ATF+2 Type 7176 Max ATF

Chrysler ATF+3, ATF+4 Max ATF

Daimler / Mercedes - Mopar ATF+3, ATF+4 Max ATF

Ford - MERCON V Max ATF

GM 9986195 Max ATF

GM DEXRON, DEXRON-II, DEXRON-IID Max ATF

GM / Ford - DEXRON III, MERCON Max ATF

GM DEXRON-IIIG and H Max ATF

GM - DEXRON VI no RP equivalent

 

[black pearl]

My truck is stock for now. Mods too follow in the future . Are their any issues that I should be aware of to keep my tranny healthy:dontknow: Are their trannys that can be used to take the punishment of more power:dontknow:

Ron

 

[eddie102870]

My truck is stock for now. Mods too follow in the future . Are their any issues that I should be aware of to keep my tranny healthy:dontknow: Are their trannys that can be used to take the punishment of more power:dontknow:

Ron

change the fluid and filter regularly(once to twice a year) and adjust the bands at least once a year. im working on finding a aftermarket govoner to prevent to 1-2 shifting problem. the info i got is that dodge's govoner is a pos. also looking into a aftermarket tranny cooler with a fan and relay which will bypass the stock cooler in the radiator. if you run two coolers in line it will make the pump work harder thus heating up the fluid

 

[flchub]

weird my tranny has 90k on it ...didnt change the fliud til 75k and its in great shape!.
my advice,quit racing stop light to stop light!

 

[rottenronnie]

I had mine rebuilt locally a couple of months back, with advice from Joe at Westminster transmissions. My guy builds trannies for the 2000+ horsepower clients. The original trans. failed very soon after adding 140+ horsepower. Prior to that, it had received regular servicing.
The 48RE has a 2nd gear band that is a flimsy piece of metal with what amounts to a spray on friction coating...VERY THIN. When they fail the rivets chew into the drum almost immediately and wrecks the drum too. Mine slipped without warning a grand total of twice and that was enough to trash the drum. I replaced the band with one from a 1971 727, which is the parent transmission. The older bands have a strong steel backing and thick lining.
The larger anodized gold coloured aftermarket drum was NOT recommended for everyday use. Fine for w.o.t. stuff but because of it's extra capacity, it takes longer to fill with fluid during a gear change and can create part throttle shift timing issues. Instead use thinner clutches and cram 2 more of them into the o.e.m. drum.
Leave the 5.0 shift lever. Changing it to say a 4.0 causes slower gear changes.
The input shaft was changed to a billet one because the stockers break. A shift kit was not recommended nor installed as the line pressure is modified by the e.c.u. when it is flashed. Either control line pressure with the e.c.u. or the shift kit, but not both.
Don't use Suncoast's converters. They use modified rebuilt stock converters. Suncoast increases stall by bending the fins over. It increases stall but they aren't very efficient and send the bearings into orbit. They fail and pump all the crap through the tranny which causes it to fail.

As mentioned, service regularly. Service more often if the truck is seeing track duty.

Ron

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

I had mine rebuilt locally a couple of months back, with advice from Joe at Westminster transmissions. My guy builds trannies for the 2000+ horsepower clients. The original trans. failed very soon after adding 140+ horsepower. Prior to that, it had received regular servicing.
The 48RE has a 2nd gear band that is a flimsy piece of metal with what amounts to a spray on friction coating...VERY THIN. When they fail the rivets chew into the drum almost immediately and wrecks the drum too. Mine slipped without warning a grand total of twice and that was enough to trash the drum. I replaced the band with one from a 1971 727, which is the parent transmission. The older bands have a strong steel backing and thick lining.
The larger anodized gold coloured aftermarket drum was NOT recommended for everyday use. Fine for w.o.t. stuff but because of it's extra capacity, it takes longer to fill and can create part throttle shift timing issues. Instead use thinner clutches and cram 2 more of them into the o.e.m. drum.
Leave the 5.0 shift lever. Changing it to say a 4.0 causes slower gear changes.
The input shaft was changed to a billet one because the stockers break. A shift kit was not recommended nor installed as the line pressure is modified by the e.c.u. when it is flashed. Either control line pressure with the e.c.u. or the shift kit, but not both.
Don't use Suncoast's converters. They use modified rebuilt stock converters. Suncoast increases stall by bending the fins over. It increases stall but sends the bearings into orbit. They fail and pump all the crap through the tranny which causes it to fail.

As mentioned, service regularly. Service more often if the truck is seeing track duty.

Ron

killer info bro:rock: :rock: :rock: :rock:

 

[supercar1of1]

Any one ever deal with these guys, they seem to have some H.D. stuff.


http://www.transmissioncenter.net/dodge.htm