Manual Tranny keeps blowing master cylinder

s8taxatty

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Today the master cylinder for my 2006 manual transmission blew for a third time!!! First owner beat the Sh** out of the tranny that left it with cracked gears. I had it rebuilt (thank God for the CarMax extended warranty) and discovered the clutch had been replaces (it is yellow). When first the master cylinder went I had about 35,000 miles on it. About 500 miles later, the master cylinder went again. That time it leaked at one of the seals. Now it's back in the shop at 36,500 miles.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

I looked around and saw that there is an after market slave cylinder available but it only work properly with certain clutches.

I ready to upgrade what ever I need to so this doesn't happen again. Majorly bummed out and it's my birthday to boot.
 
So is it the master cylinder or slave cylinder that keeps going?
 
Get the viper hydraulics upgrade from JMB performance, it comes with a metal slave and a slightly larger master cylinder and you shouldn't have any more problems. I broke 3 factory masters before I upgraded, I have broken 1 viper master but it wasn't a seal issue I literally just kicked it off the firewall. I reinforced my new one with some epoxy.
 
Do what arrestmered04 is saying, you won't regret it.
 
First failure the master cylinder blew apart - parts everywhere. The next two are blown seals, leaks fluid, peddle to the floor.
 
You basically have two options.

a) Viper upgrade from JMBPerformance
b) Custom made system from JTSVP

You will get mixed opinions from everyone as to what is better than the other. Personally I use the one from JTSVP and I have nothing bad to say about it.
 
I as I option, run new stock hydraulics and have had no issues racing at track, Mexico and daily driving. 103,000 miles and master/slave never been issue.
I think a couple things are your prob.
Not getting air out of lines ,as air bubbles will not push slave yet pressure wants to leave hose. Bleed clutch very good!
Next thing is letting clutch peddle return to engaged point (pedal released) by itself without a foot to catch it. It will try to let the master rod/keeper clip, etc try to rip out of cylinder. Ex. Fast clutch releasing without foot on pedal to catch full return/extension of master.
 
I never had the stock set up but I had the roe kit , then switch to the jtsvp kit and went back to the roe kit. can't beat oem quality.
 
What venomous1 said, you side step these clutches and let the pedal slam back out a few times and you are asking to buy new hydraulics.
 
any tips on getting the rod out from the clutch master cylinder? I need to remove mine to get some machine work done to it.

Believe its just a circlip holding it all in. We used to tear apart LS masters and make them adjustable back in the day. ;)
 
Thanks to Tony for the referral to ROE Racing. Just got the Beast back with ROE's hydraulic clutch linkage upgrade, Centerforce Clutch and Aluminium Fylwheel. You could push the clutch pedal with your finger! What a difference in performance! Never chirped the wheels before in third gear. Still need to get used to it and to "catch" the clutch as I let it out.:)
 
Take it from Trainman, buy the metal Master and slave kit from JTSVenom, it works. I went through a couple of Viper car factory systems...and the master even broken in half off the firewall...went to the JTSV system....easier pedal pressure, works perfect. I have a McLeod twin disc setup, which had very hard pedal pressure with the Viper system, way easier with the JTSV system.
 
easier pedal pressure, works perfect. I have a McLeod twin disc setup, which had very hard pedal pressure with the Viper system, way easier with the JTSV system.
So if i buy the metal master and slave and only that, my clutch pedal will be easier to press? Or do i have to buy a dual disc clutch too? i run a spec 3+ clutch and a clutch master cylinder, slave, trans from a gen 2 viper car.

Also i dont see any thing related to the clutch master cylinder in the srt10 ram section on JTS VP's website. I have one on Roe's site though. But those add a spacer or something which wont work with my set up. The clutch wont fully engage. not enough air gap.
 
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I don't know if just ROE's master/slave made it easier to push or was it everything together. But it is like butter. I'm having trouble getting used to it.
 

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