Misc head change items

spdrcrj

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Hey All...since I could not sell the ported heads, I've decided to just put them on myself. I only have about a 6 day window to do this in so I'm trying to get my ducks in a row beforehand. I ordered a upper gasket kit, thermostat, and hardened pushrods (as per this site's recommendations) from Justin. I know I'll need new coolant as well. Are there any other minor things I'll need to buy to complete the head change? I've never done this kind of work before but I have the complete service manual on my laptop and plan on following the steps contained to a "T". Any help or advise would be appreciated as always.

Jim.......hoping to be a member of the 500rwhp club soon. :rock:
 

There are so many things that could go wrong, I would not advise this as a novice install.
ie; One tool you will need is a very high quality torque wrench,which most people don't have in their home tool box.

At the least go around and find an experienced mechanic that would come by
and over see the job for a reasonable price.






.
 
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I do have a Craftsman torque wrench and have performed all of my own bolt-ons, brake, and suspension mods on all of my vehicles. I will be doing the work at the base auto hobby shop where I know the guys who work there very well and they will gladly lend a hand. I do agree with you supercar, I would not attempt this in my garage solo.
 

Sorry, I thought you were going to try this under the old shade tree.
WHEW!:rock:




.
 
its not hard at all. i did it in my geroge in a little over a day. just make sure you get all the pushrods on the tops of the lifters, the front ones are easy but the ones in the back are hard to see. you will probably need some help mounting the heads to the block also.
 
scotchbrite cleanin pads are the best for aluminum. make sure all bolt holes are dry & free of crap. thread lube. i like the moly paste. put some on the threads & under the washer or head flange. does the head set come with ex. gaskets????
 
Dont let some of the others scare you, a head swap is a very easy task. If you get to a point where you are unsure just ask questions. A couple things to pay attention to are, keep it clean, make sure all old head gasket material is removed from the deck before you install the new heads being careful not to remove metal from the deck. Make sure that your pushrods are in properly before turning the engine over (in the center of the lifter and the cup of the rocker arm), sometimes it is easy for one to pop out of place. Make sure the rockers are adjusted properly. Adjust the exhaust when the intake is almost close and adjust the intake when the exhaust just opens. Make sure you torque the head bolts properly using steps, ie follow the pattern in the manual and torque all bolts to say 30 ft lbs, then do it again at 60 ft lbs, and eventually get to the final spec (not sure what it is) and using a good quality torque wrench (dont use the $20 specials from Peavy mart) at a minimum use a Craftsman. If you are concerned about spending money on the tools then let someone else do this for you because you dont want bolts torqued wrong. The only other special tool that you probably wont have in your home toolbox is the tool to disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail. Its just a plastic thing that goes around the fuel line and then slides into the connector spreading the spring away from the lip allowing you to remove the fuel line. Its pretty basic, just take your time, should take about 1 day to do if you take your time. Good luck.
 
yellowfever#154 said:
Dont let some of the others scare you, a head swap is a very easy task. Make sure the rockers are adjusted properly. Adjust the exhaust when the intake is almost close and adjust the intake when the exhaust just opens.


you dont adjust them, all you can do is torq them to specs....
 
Thanks for all your help fellas, keep it coming. I'm going to keep this thread saved on my computer to make sure I don't forget anything. The upper gasket kit does include new header gaskets. I'm looking at this taking me about two full days. Going to take my time and do it right.
 
perk_1405 said:
you dont adjust them, all you can do is torq them to specs....

You're right, sorry had a brain fart. Pushrod length is what sets valve/rocker lash on these. What about with aftermarket rockers? Do they have adjusting screws?
 
spdrcrj said:
Hey All...since I could not sell the ported heads, I've decided to just put them on myself. I only have about a 6 day window to do this in so I'm trying to get my ducks in a row beforehand. I ordered a upper gasket kit, thermostat, and hardened pushrods (as per this site's recommendations) from Justin. I know I'll need new coolant as well. Are there any other minor things I'll need to buy to complete the head change? I've never done this kind of work before but I have the complete service manual on my laptop and plan on following the steps contained to a "T". Any help or advise would be appreciated as always.

Jim.......hoping to be a member of the 500rwhp club soon. :rock:[/QUOTE


It is a MUCH easier job than a cam swap. Take your time.

The new gold coloured gaskets will give you nearly .5 a point more compression over the o.e.m. black ones so that is an added bonus. You will have to get creative to remove the black residue left by the old gaskets if you don't use a spray on gasket remover.
Some of the head bolts are close to the head itself so make sure your socket sits completely on the bolt before removing or installing them. The bolts are coated so reinstall them dry to get the proper torque.
Don't forget to reattach the ground strap on the back of the passenger head; your electrical system will thank you.
The white plastic tabs under the intake manifold that hold the f.i. wiring will have to be broken to be removed and aren't sold separately.
If you are using the factory spark plug wires and wire looms, most of the looms break when trying to remove them. They were a bit tough to find in the parts books. They ARE listed for an '03 Viper car however. Use a 1/4" bit and drill out the new ones so you can actually remove them again without breaking them.
Open your bleeder before adding coolant to purge the air out of the system.
Remove the black plastic corrugated cover that runs along the top edge of the driver's valve cover before you start the project, it gets brittle and tries to drop crap into the engine.
I am not sure what was done to the heads you are installing, but if any of the intake bolts pierced through the intake port itself, MAKE SURE they are well coated with an O2 friendly sealant or you will have a vacuum leak.
It is a great time to change your plug wires if you have some miles on your truck.
Also, get a buddy to help you lower your intake back on; it isn't heavy but it is a good idea to keep an eye on things as it get lowered back into place.
 
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yellowfever#154 said:
You're right, sorry had a brain fart. Pushrod length is what sets valve/rocker lash on these. What about with aftermarket rockers? Do they have adjusting screws?

Jesels have an adjustment screw, others too...
 
yellowfever#154 said:
You're right, sorry had a brain fart. Pushrod length is what sets valve/rocker lash on these. What about with aftermarket rockers? Do they have adjusting screws?



most aftermarket rockers have to be adjusted...
 

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