Mushy pedal

ViperPete

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Replaced the rear rotors and pads. Used a C-Clamp to press the pistons into the caliper to install new pads.

Ever since the brake pedal is very mushy.

Just has the entire braking system flushed and same result....

Any ideas?
 
Gravity bleed each caliper starting at right rear, then left, followed by front right 2 bleeders, then front left 2. Otherwise you could have a bad hose with inner rupture or brake booster possible. Likely air though
 
Get a mighty vac and pull new fluid through it at each caliper, only way I do brakes and clutches now. So much faster/easier than pumping or gravity bleed
 
Replaced the rear rotors and pads. Used a C-Clamp to press the pistons into the caliper to install new pads.

Ever since the brake pedal is very mushy.

Just has the entire braking system flushed and same result....

Any ideas?

they left some air boss, rebleed back then front
 
What's a mighty vac?

A name brand of a vacume gauge & hand pump that creates a vacuum on the hose coming off of it. You can get it with a cup that goes between the tool and bleeder fitting. I have a Matco brand vacuum pump and made the cup myself out of a Snapple bottle.
 
I went buy a hand vacuum pump at Sears specifically for that stuff. I guess i did it the fancy way. Sadly it works on brakes but not the t56 bleeder. Once i install the extension, it will.
 
Ok... Maybe i'll go to sears and see if they have that bleeder thingy.
 
They do work on stock ram srt slave cylinder

They don't work on the upgrade hydraulics. I did learn a foolproof method for bleeding the hydraulics that takes less than 10 minutes.
 
They don't work on the upgrade hydraulics. I did learn a foolproof method for bleeding the hydraulics that takes less than 10 minutes.

Yup, crack the bleeder and let it run into a container while reservoir is kept full. Close bleeder and done. If you have air in your master it takes longer.
 
Yup, crack the bleeder and let it run into a container while reservoir is kept full. Close bleeder and done. If you have air in your master it takes longer.

The method I use is different. A plastic cap that fits over the master cylinder reservoir with a small hole drilled in it, just big enough for a compressed air blow gun. Must use an air regulator on the line and just crack the throttle open slightly on the blow gun for about 5 seconds with the slave bleeder open. Do that 2 to 3 times and it is the firmest clutch pedal I've ever had.
 
I don't think it is a fluid problem.

The pedal goes down about 2 inches- then grabs hard.

I'm having my dealership check my rear brakes.
 

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