Need Helpful Input From Fellow Owners

Carlwalski

New Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2007
Messages
2,686
Reaction score
2
Location
New Zealand
Hi guys,


Well, as you know, my FI route was closed by myself and shop as we felt the my truck was right on the traction limit for a daily driving 100% street vehicle. At first I thought I would go the NA route and build the engine up around 50-80+rwhp more with forged pistons, rods, main caps etc. This time, I didn't want to jump the gun like I did with the FI thread which in reality, wasted everyone's time (I'll be the first to admit that). Maybe someone who searches will find some of it useful later on.

Now, my conundrum. After running the truck with it's bolt-ons for the last 3-4 weeks and putting around 1,500 miles on it, I have really enjoyed what it has to offer as it is right now. It bites hard, chirps the tires when I want and cruises beautifully. More hp is not a concern to me any more. The kick down is a tad over the limit IMO. When dropping down from 3rd to 1st by itself around 30mph it really squeals hard for quite some time. Sure it could take more but then in anything other than perfect dry conditions, I could see not being able to just floor it (safely). Gradually accelerating to build up speed, yes. But what's the point having a good auto if you can't enjoy the kickdown!?! :D

What should I do? You guys have seen the Night Runner evolve into The Batram so I'd really appreciate your thoughts as I respect the opinions. That is why I come here, for the tech and helpful info from other great owners. Options are: NA build it and tear it down or leave it as is. I don't see any need when the truck is running so nice and has plenty of power as-is. Current mods are: B&B long tube headers, catless mid pipes, full catback exhaust, CAI, Roe SCT Tune and Roe TB, estimated around 490-500rwhp. Keep in mind the 4L80E has seriously turned this thing into a much better straight line hauler - big time. I plan to pull the engine out and do some custom mods, like custom "BATRAM" font valve covers, black it out and really tidy up that OEM engine bay, etc. Something similar to what I done with the interior. The thing I like is, IF in future I felt like I wanted or needed more power, then I can do it later on. It's almost a win win.



Thanks guys,
Carlwalski
THE BATRAM


THE_BATRAM_12.JPG
 
my plan is to go with striker heads & matching cam for ~ 100+hp when i get around to forging it later..... if i need any extra bite for the track @ that point, i'll add ~150shot of nitrous...... that's all the hp i need & i don't think it builds the motor toward the unreliable side like when you get above 800rwhp like alot have had happen on this forum........ for now, my 500rwhp is good enough. :)
 
Hey Carl,Mopar here has a really good plan with reliable HP doing a cam and stryker heads,Rotten Ronnie on the site here has that set up and is running 566RWHP the truck goes with killer power almost if not really close to a FI engine but I bet it will out last a FI engine,if you would like to stay NA this is for sure a really good way to lean towards.
 
Leave it alone and enjoy the ride. In 2 months you will be bored with it and either want to sell it or rip it apart.
 
i went with a motor build and N20 setup.... my build is good for the DD and when i need a little extra i have the N20

i do plan on havin it rebuilt and a TT setup by Stinker, but for now it not to shabby i can punch it and drop the hammer and she Gooooo's !!!!!! :D :D :D

it will make you butt hole pucker :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
 
Thanks for the input guys, some good points. :) I guess what I'm saying is, I don't see the point spending $15K+ tearing down a perfectly good engine when very I'm happy with it's performance, traction and feel as-is. Touche, 1,500 is a bit early but those miles are in the last few weeks and in bulk + 80% giving it death lol. Not like 2 months and only a few soft miles a day. :D Thanks again for your opinions. I will leave the engine as is and customize the engine bay and tune the current set up on a dyno. The engine bay has been getting on my nerves these last several months as after the interior is done, it's the only part of this entire truck that isn't "theme" related........not for long. If I feel the need for more power later on, I'll cross that bridge when and if I ever get there which at this stage is very unlikely.


Cheers!
 
i would do a build similar to mine...some people know about my build in depth most do not.... but heres the skinny besdies the obvious Forged rods and pistons.... i had greg good port my heads... they are not fully ported just the bowl blended and a few other nick nacks...along with the custom Grind Cam off of the Comp Cams 270 grind and bumped compression all together i spend maybe $2500


the blend job/port job was mainly for flowing making the motor a better breathing beast...the cam was mainly for my n20 but still on motor no Spray i gained 60+RWHP With minor Port and Polish work an a Cam that matched what my heads flowed..... so if you looking for just a hair more i say do a nice port job and a nice cam.... not to expensive but a good gain... and have it dyno tuned with your headers you should gain at least 70 at the wheels
 
Thanks Jack lol (hard case) and Tooloe.


Tooloe, that is my point, for me, and my truck, I am happy with it as it is. The kick down is right on the limit in the dry, a real good bite to it. Off the line it hooks hard and feels tight. The package as-is (Est. 490-500rwhp) feels great throughout the rpm range. I guess my point is, I don't see the point in spending $15K-$20K stripping the engine down buying all new internals, port job, etc etc when I'm happy as is. BTW - I would do something similar to your build if I did go the NA power route.

Ps: Roe Racing do cams now, not sure if it's old but Sean told me yesterday. For anyone interested, the only specs he gave me are it had .586" of lift. With head work etc, they pulled 710hp at the fly, very impressive #s. That's around 603rwhp+ with -15% transmission loss.



Cheers!
 
Last edited:
Carlwalski said:
Thanks for the input guys, some good points. :) I guess what I'm saying is, I don't see the point spending $15K+ tearing down a perfectly good engine when very I'm happy with it's performance, traction and feel as-is. Touche, 1,500 is a bit early but those miles are in the last few weeks and in bulk + 80% giving it death lol. Not like 2 months and only a few soft miles a day. :D Thanks again for your opinions. I will leave the engine as is and customize the engine bay and tune the current set up on a dyno. The engine bay has been getting on my nerves these last several months as after the interior is done, it's the only part of this entire truck that isn't "theme" related........not for long. If I feel the need for more power later on, I'll cross that bridge when and if I ever get there which at this stage is very unlikely.


Cheers!






Not tellin ya what to do. However, I feel that the Batram's engine bay would look sweet with a blacked out paxton set up. Also, with the paxton's power more at the top of the rpms you may not have as bad a traction issue as ya think.
 
SNAKEGUTS said:
Not tellin ya what to do. However, I feel that the Batram's engine bay would look sweet with a blacked out paxton set up. Also, with the paxton's power more at the top of the rpms you may not have as bad a traction issue as ya think.
All helpful opinions are welcome mate so thanks. ;) Yeah but although it makes most of it's power top end, it's still going to increase idle+ power dramatically as well. So even at 2,000rpms it's going to increase power drastically and well, if I'm on the limit now for traction, you see my point. Would look good though, I agree. :) But, you may also like what the final result of the custom engine bay will be when I am through with it as well.
 
SNAKEGUTS said:
Not tellin ya what to do. However, I feel that the Batram's engine bay would look sweet with a blacked out paxton set up. Also, with the paxton's power more at the top of the rpms you may not have as bad a traction issue as ya think.


Also I understand your concern as not rebuildin a perfectly good engine. But let me say this, I myself am halfway on a full twin turbo build and sometimes, sometimes I wish I had just given the paxton a chance with the stock engine. Don't get me wrong I can't wait to finish my twin turbo monster. Just sayin it seems like there have been a good few who have done the paxton the way paxton intended it to be done and have had many miles with no trouble. Same to be said about the Roe. However it is well known that once you try to get more power then the factory intended the risk factor increases.
 
Carlwalski said:
All helpful opinions are welcome mate so thanks. ;) Yeah but although it makes most of it's power top end, it's still going to increase idle+ power dramatically as well. So even at 2,000rpms it's going to increase power drastically and well, if I'm on the limit now for traction, you see my point. Would look good though, I agree. :) But, you may also like what the final result of the custom engine bay will be when I am through with it as well.


Good luck dude. Lookin forward to the outcome.:burnout:
 
SNAKEGUTS said:
Also I understand your concern as not rebuildin a perfectly good engine. But let me say this, I myself am halfway on a full twin turbo build and sometimes, sometimes I wish I had just given the paxton a chance with the stock engine. Don't get me wrong I can't wait to finish my twin turbo monster. Just sayin it seems like there have been a good few who have done the paxton the way paxton intended it to be done and have had many miles with no trouble. Same to be said about the Roe. However it is well known that once you try to get more power then the factory intended the risk factor increases.
I hear yah mate, gets risky with anything above factory, especially with a set up like yours. I hope it works out how you planned it and you're happy with the outcome, that's what's really important. No point building your vehicle for a few people on a forum, do what makes you happy. :) Thanks mate, likewise, best of luck with your build. ;)
 
Welcome to the world of the auto tranny....I don't ever dare to give it anything over gradual gas I wet weather. On dry it also chirps at the 30 mph mark quite nicely!
Back to your post...100 shot of NOS, it's safe for these engines without doing much work at all
BTW litemup put a s/c oN the factory engine and as a dd safely by not going overboard on the pully
 
Last edited:
Thanks kickinassrt, I have no doubt you could run FI for a daily driver but I want to go hard (WOT) it without too much worry about conditions and getting fish tailed too fast. Gradually increasing speed is OK if you have to but yeah, for that rush you need the might kickdown! I'm happy as is but thanks for the input, good to hear. :) I've had auto transmissions before but never a full racing spec one, custom no less, it's frickin fantastic!! RC's should have had this option from factory, seriously. City driving is a dream, straightline performance is wicked and I finally got rid of that aftermarket short throw shifter whine lol! :D :D :D
 
I think NOS might be something to consider if you get bored with it. That way you can take it easy when you want or spray when you feel the need. I bet you will get bored with it if you drive it often enough.
 
I'm not a big fan of NOS. Good while it's tuned, dangerous stuff if it detunes itself (which happens). Real engine eating stuff. Overtime it "can" do damage. I "may" get bored but to be honest, I'm absolute loving The Batram, heck, I even took it to a crowded grocery store last night......in short, there is no way I will ever get bored with The Batram slow, quick or crazy no traction fast. Thanks for the ideas though. :)
 

Latest posts

Support Us

Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Back
Top