Need valve body removal help.

You'll be the only to know till PCB and my crack dea... I mean parts guy Stink-o-matic... I gotta see how good this new job pays
 
There is ALWAYS something to do. :dontknow:
 
I aint skeered. :) Actually, I somehow scewed something up. It go into park and I've adjusted the shifter cable twice, as per the service manual. It also still shifts pretty soft, but I think that may be a simple line pressure adjustment. I'm gonna take to a transmission shop that I know, and have them go over what I did. Over all, it wasnt that difficult. I probably just made a stupid mistake.:)
 
its always the little stuff that gets us man... Im in talks with a shop to do mine and Troys, I want a guarantee and to be able to watch when they do it
 
SANTEEN said:
Another question. Did you have two springs on the accumulator. In the first step of the instructions, it shows a spring on each end of the accumulator. One that goes into the trans housing and the other sits on the valve body. When mine came out, I only found one spring, the smaller one that goes into the valve body. The larger one that sits on the valve body, I cant find. Now the kit comes with one. Just not sure if the gas version of the 48re has one. Do you remember, when u installed urs?
Click to expand...

The gas version has the little spring inside the 2nd gear accumulator. The diesel has the big spring on the other side of the accumulator (and sit on the valve body). You can run it either way or keep both springs in there. With the diesel only spring, it will shift a little harder into 2nd. With the gas only spring, it will shift a little softer into 2nd. With both springs it will be in between.
 
SANTEEN said:
I aint skeered. :) Actually, I somehow scewed something up. It go into park and I've adjusted the shifter cable twice, as per the service manual. It also still shifts pretty soft, but I think that may be a simple line pressure adjustment. I'm gonna take to a transmission shop that I know, and have them go over what I did. Over all, it wasnt that difficult. I probably just made a stupid mistake.:)
Click to expand...

Are you saying that it won't go into park? If so, you probably need to file down and smooth the metal part that sticks out between the plastic pieces on the ramp that the Transmission Range Sensor rides on. I swapped the rooster comb peice (first picture) out with my old valve body since with my new valve body, it would never go into park. My old one was nice and smooth. It was that little pin on the TRS that was hanging up on the ramp thing on the rooster comb. Don't mess with the sensor itself (second picture), just smooth the rough metal on the ramp.
 

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WOT said:
The gas version has the little spring inside the 2nd gear accumulator. The diesel has the big spring on the other side of the accumulator (and sit on the valve body). You can run it either way or keep both springs in there. With the diesel only spring, it will shift a little harder into 2nd. With the gas only spring, it will shift a little softer into 2nd. With both springs it will be in between.
Click to expand...
I put both springs, like the diesels, because I thought that somehow I lost the bottom spring. But second is a pretty mild shift. If read of people turning the line pressure adjustment screw, two full turns counter clockwise and this increases line pressure approx. 6 psi. Would this improve shift firmness?
 
WOT said:
Are you saying that it won't go into park? If so, you probably need to file down and smooth the metal part that sticks out between the plastic pieces on the ramp that the Transmission Range Sensor rides on. I swapped the rooster comb peice (first picture) out with my old valve body since with my new valve body, it would never go into park. My old one was nice and smooth. It was that little pin on the TRS that was hanging up on the ramp thing on the rooster comb. Don't mess with the sensor itself (second picture), just smooth the rough metal on the ramp.
Click to expand...
Mine came with a plastic piece around the metal part that you have circled. I checked mine and i couldnt see were it was hanging up.
 
Mine has a plastic piece on it as well, but the pin on the TRS hangs up on the little metal tabs that stick through the plastic and holds the plastic thing in place. After putting my old rooster comb back in (swapped it from the old valve body to the new), the park shifts perfectly smooth now -- no shift-cable adjustment necessary at all.
 
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SANTEEN said:
I put both springs, like the diesels, because I thought that somehow I lost the bottom spring. But second is a pretty mild shift. If read of people turning the line pressure adjustment screw, two full turns counter clockwise and this increases line pressure approx. 6 psi. Would this improve shift firmness?
Click to expand...

Yes it will. The 2 biggest things you can do to increase 2nd gear shift firmness are:

1. modify the TV itself (have to take apart the little piston and change the springs), and
2. block out the 2nd gear servo inner cusioning piston by putting a thicker washer in it.

The second option will make 2nd shift a little harder all the time (light throttle as well as full throttle).

The easiest things you could do would be to drop the valve body again, remove the inner spring on the 2nd gear accumulator, and then put the block-out washer in the 2nd gear servo piston.
 
Thanks, as always, for your wealth of knowledge. If you think turning the line pressure up two turns, will help with shift firmness, I may just do that. I'm still not to comfortable taking down the valve body again. :)
 
ha ha well thats why you have the pan that you can drain....drain it then let it sit with the cover off for a bit until it stop dripping...then out comes the VB and more fluid! ha ha....I pulled the tranny in my hemi and did a convertor in it! I always do all my own servicing! I just really want to do this shift kit and a new pan all at once when i do my first service.....
 
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