New Forged Build Breakin.

[mcdoogle1975]

Just wondering what is the recommended breakin procedure on a new forged build. I know there are varied opinions but just wondering how others have done it.
Thanks
Paul

 

[Wildcard]

I will start by saying that I have never built a viper engine. My response is just based on the other engines I have built 2 of which had forged internals.
I use amsoil break in oil. High in zinc and phosphorous they say it helps with proper ring seating. I have never had a problem. Idle for 15 min. Drive 500 miles in a few installments. I keep revs under 4000 until the last 50 or so miles. Change oil. Make sure all is drained. Replace with your oil of choice. Let her rip. For piece of mind you can also do a leak down test at the end of break in just to make sure rings are doing there job correctly. Good luck

 

[mcdoogle1975]

I will start by saying that I have never built a viper engine. My response is just based on the other engines I have built 2 of which had forged internals.
I use amsoil break in oil. High in zinc and phosphorous they say it helps with proper ring seating. I have never had a problem. Idle for 15 min. Drive 500 miles in a few installments. I keep revs under 4000 until the last 50 or so miles. Change oil. Make sure all is drained. Replace with your oil of choice. Let her rip. For piece of mind you can also do a leak down test at the end of break in just to make sure rings are doing there job correctly. Good luck

Thank you for the info wildcard, my builder is very familiar with the our viper engines and has built numerous ones. He absolutely knows what he's doing, I was just looking to see if others were doing something different..... researching if you will...lol, thanks again for the info it's greatly appreciated.

 

[IronAffliction]

Make five or six medium-throttle accelerations to about 4,500 rpm before letting off in gear and coasting back down to 20 miles-per-hour.
Run a couple hard throttle accelerations up to about 5,000 rpm and once again coast back down to 20 miles-per-hour.
Let the engine cool, change the oil and filter, and check the coolant level.
Drive the next 500 miles normally, keeping the engine below 5,000 rpm and minimizing operation at idle.

 

[mcdoogle1975]

Make five or six medium-throttle accelerations to about 4,500 rpm before letting off in gear and coasting back down to 20 miles-per-hour.
Run a couple hard throttle accelerations up to about 5,000 rpm and once again coast back down to 20 miles-per-hour.
Let the engine cool, change the oil and filter, and check the coolant level.
Drive the next 500 miles normally, keeping the engine below 5,000 rpm and minimizing operation at idle.

Thank you good sir, great info and greatly appreciated.

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

Guess we take a different approach. We run a non detergent oil for break in. Around 500 miles of different rpm but below 3k. I like to ensure rings seat well before high rpms as well as letting valve springs break in nicely. The key is getting everything up to operating temp, at different speeds, many cool downs, warm ups. Allowing expansion and contraction of rings/pistons.
Than change oil to 15/50 M1

 

[mcdoogle1975]

Guess we take a different approach. We run a non detergent oil for break in. Around 500 miles of different rpm but below 3k. I like to ensure rings seat well before high rpms as well as letting valve springs break in nicely. The key is getting everything up to operating temp, at different speeds, many cool downs, warm ups. Allowing expansion and contraction of rings/pistons.
Than change oil to 15/50 M1

That's why I asked the question, i know that people do it different ways and want to compare the differences.
Thanks for the info Scott :top:

 

[IronAffliction]

Most people run oil without zinc. But in a roller motor doesn't matter. If the engine was built right you can go out and drive it and drive it hard. If you just go putting around for 500 to 1000 miles you could glaze the cylinder walls then your screwed. Its a roller motor not much to break in just seat the rings and go

 

[Wildcard]

It was my understanding zinc is good for engine break in and friction modifiers were far from ideal. I could be wrong, this is the internet.
Now I am curious what is your engine builders recommended protocol?

 

[IronAffliction]

Zinc oil additives are mainly for flat tappet cams. I would just go with whatever the builder is recommending since he built it

 

[rottenronnie]

Drove around "normally" after fire-up for about 20 miles (starting to step on it after that) then at 50 miles total, I floored it from a stop letting it shift at 6500 continuing on up to a "high rate of speed".
Drove around for another 50 miles kind of normally on the highway loading the engine on hills (wouldn't let it kick-down) and varied the vehicle speeds where possible.
Buzzed it a few more times to 6650 during that time then..

Pulled over and let it cool right down for an hour or so.

Break-In completed.
Driven normally after that- Raced too.

The engine was assembled with Regular red assembly lube. No "break-in oil additives";
Coated Gen-IV bearings and a street-strip style ring.

Mobil 1 0-30 (dumped after 250 miles)

Uses about a litre of oil every 1000 km. (about 600 miles) which is perfectly normal for a forged-piston engine with this style of ring and a smooth bore.
That litre includes the oil collected by the catch-can of course.

That's the way I've always done it with any performance engines built (for a lot of years now).
Great leak-down rates (very low).

It all about knocking the tiny little peaks of metal off of the rings and cylinder walls and "lapping" those surfaces.

The rings I use seal their best at w.o.t. which is also their highest load against the cylinder walls.

Very important to seat the rings FAST, particularly with the smooth bore finish and hard-ish top rings if you want a powerful engine.

Ronnie

 

[Chuck B]

I would just go with whatever the builder is recommending since he built it

The right answer....