newbie to nitrous please help

TUGBOAT TRASH

TUGBOAT TRASH

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hello all just wondering if you guys could help me please.I don't want to be picking up my engine in pieces down the track.what should I do to prepare the engine in a costly manner to get ready for the juice the system is already installed but I'm hesitant to spray until I feel good about my engine setup I've got a while to prepare they'll be closing the track down soon.but wanted to start the process of setting things up ready to run.last time I ran at the track was with my 05 rc with the wood chipper,and tbs pulled a 8.2 but not consistent what do you guys think is a ballpark figure with my setup now
 
PM Justin...he is the king of spray...JMB Justin

JMB Rocks!
 
Gotta make sure that you don't end up going too lean. Put it on a dyno if you haven't already with someone who knows what they are doing. JMB should be able to tell you if you're going to be cutting it close or not, but reguardless I'd want to see it on a dyno. Really with NOS I like to have a real tune done.

Joe
 
do not run nos on a dyno (ever). dynos put too much load on, and you will go boom, or at least bang up your rod bearings.

with a 150 shot, you don't need any special engine mods. if you don't have a window switch, make sure you don't activate the nos under 2500 rpm!
 
thanks for the info guys keep it coming. when I arm the system it sprays at full throttle.so I wanted to wait for a tune for it so it would run on the rich side the safer side so I've read.I was thinking about taking out the 92 jet and put in the 42 I have.what do you guys think I know its only a small dose but I'd like to know as much possible before I spray.by the way this is my everyday driver right now so I'm trying too keep it subtle.all your help is very much appreciated.
 
install cooler plugs propperly gapped....can't remember what i did mine at. def don't spray below 2500 rpm....3000 is safer! what type of nitrous system did you install? is it a wet system? if wet then i would follow the manufacturers specs for a 150 shot and not try messing around with the pills. with a 150 shot and good driving low 12's into mid 11's is possible! look for traps of 114mph + in the 1/4. have fun!
 
its a 150 dry shot mounted on the intake elbow.should I gap new plugs to factoty specs don't have them yet still trying to decide please help thank you
 
TUGBOAT TRASH said:
its a 150 dry shot mounted on the intake elbow.should I gap new plugs to factoty specs don't have them yet still trying to decide please help thank you
Click to expand...
YOU WILL BLOW YOUR MOTOR WITH 100% CEERTAINTY, YOU CAN NOT SPRAY A DRY SHOT OF NX ON THESE MOTORS. YOU CAN ONLY SPRAY DRY IF YOU HAVE A MASS AIR FLOW CENSOR (IT SENSES THE NX AND ADDS FUEL) YOUR ARE GOING TO GO WAY LEAN!!!!
 
BigRed460 said:
YOU WILL BLOW YOUR MOTOR WITH 100% CEERTAINTY, YOU CAN NOT SPRAY A DRY SHOT OF NX ON THESE MOTORS. YOU CAN ONLY SPRAY DRY IF YOU HAVE A MASS AIR FLOW CENSOR (IT SENSES THE NX AND ADDS FUEL) YOUR ARE GOING TO GO WAY LEAN!!!!
Click to expand...


Hold on thats why there is a air charge temp sensor in the air intake pipe.

A pill is a orfice type insert that goes in between the line and the solenoid. usually brass or stainless. it is about the size of a pencil eraser.

What plugs are you running with a 150 shot you should drop atleast 2 heat ranges.

If you have anymore questions let me know.
 
thanks for the info.so what should I do I know there is an abient air sensor on our trucks wouldn't that tell the computer that there is denser air and throw some more fuel in?all you guys input is appreciated thankyou
 
No, all it will sense is the temp. drop created by the Nx, it's not going to add enough fuel... you will save you self a motor if you just go buy the extra parts (150$ MAX) and make it a wet kit...
 
BigRed460 said:
No, all it will sense is the temp. drop created by the Nx, it's not going to add enough fuel... you will save you self a motor if you just go buy the extra parts (150$ MAX) and make it a wet kit...
Click to expand...


Come on Zac you know i would steer someone in the wrong direction. Now if it senses the cooler temps it will do what..... 2 things retards timing and increase pulse width on the injectors thus making the motor run richer. It is there in the programming done by dodge alone. they have to do this for one reason one tune one type of computer to go all over the states and world. all types of climates, elevation, and humidity. but by tricking the sensor to beleive that the Air charge temp is cooler and more dense it will add more fuel and less timing......

the parts are cheap to run a wet kit yes i will agree with you on that, but you need to understand how the computer and associated sensors work with the Viper motor....the O2 sensors can also add fuel as well based on close band O2. This should not be confused with a wide band that can actually measure veriying A/F ratio
 
SVTFreak said:
Come on Zac you know i would steer someone in the wrong direction. Now if it senses the cooler temps it will do what..... 2 things retards timing and increase pulse width on the injectors thus making the motor run richer. It is there in the programming done by dodge alone. they have to do this for one reason one tune one type of computer to go all over the states and world. all types of climates, elevation, and humidity. but by tricking the sensor to beleive that the Air charge temp is cooler and more dense it will add more fuel and less timing......

the parts are cheap to run a wet kit yes i will agree with you on that, but you need to understand how the computer and associated sensors work with the Viper motor....the O2 sensors can also add fuel as well based on close band O2. This should not be confused with a wide band that can actually measure veriying A/F ratio
Click to expand...

Im not sure if your saying the dry shot will work or not, but I can guarantee it will not work based on the principal of spraying the IAT and the injectors compensating that much, it wont even be close. Also the 02's will have zero affect on fuel delivery at WOT, they are only for open loop operation. The computer will not compensate even remotely close to enough for a dry shot on any SRT10.

Tugboat Trash, I would very highly recommend that you have someone very experienced with N20 on viper engines work with you to make sure everything is correct, these motors are VERY expensive to replace or buy parts for and the stock pistons and rods leave very little room for error.

Justin
 
Also the 02's will have zero affect on fuel delivery at WOT, they are only for open loop operation.
Justin[/QUOTE]

With that said, I was recently at a muffler shop and they "forgot" to hook up the front 02 sensors.

I didn't realize they were disconnected until I went w.o.t. once it was warmed up (in other words NOT in open loop) and it tripped the check engine light when I did that. So the O2 sensors must have been trying to do something during closed loop.
 
Last edited:
JMB Justin said:
Im not sure if your saying the dry shot will work or not, but I can guarantee it will not work based on the principal of spraying the IAT and the injectors compensating that much, it wont even be close. Also the 02's will have zero affect on fuel delivery at WOT, they are only for open loop operation. The computer will not compensate even remotely close to enough for a dry shot on any SRT10.

Tugboat Trash, I would very highly recommend that you have someone very experienced with N20 on viper engines work with you to make sure everything is correct, these motors are VERY expensive to replace or buy parts for and the stock pistons and rods leave very little room for error.

Justin
Click to expand...

I am not going to debate it with you but it will work as i have done it. Now my shot was no where near 150 dry but i was able to maintain a 12.0 a/f ratio on a shot of gas with no extra provided via a fuel solenoid.
 
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