Octane Booster - brought over from other site

Sorry for the second post so quickly. :(
Lead doesn't plug up the converters we have very much. That was mostly on the old GM "bead" converters. It does render them non-effective for emmisions purpose though. ;)
 
Ahhh, thanks Jack. :D I knew I heard something about valve guides. :D (I think I heard that you have to CHANGE the valve guides in a old motor... say a 1967 350... when you rebuild it. Because we don't have leaded fuel anymore, which means no lubrication.). :)
 
VA VIPERAM said:
FSTJACK, you saved me a post, I was going to answer the first three questions exactly as you did. :)

One more thing that should be noted. If you dont hear detonation at full throttle now, raising you octane will only decrease your power. Your PCM doesn't adjust for changes in O2 readings at full throttle, it's in open-loop mode. So if you don't have a custom tune to take advantage of the extra octane, you're wasting your money. However, it does smell good. :rock: Just don't run too much or you will poison your O2 sensors (as FSTJACK said).


right but i'm talkin applications for only spraying nitrous to be on the safe side especially going to a bigger shot.
 
Rice Eater said:
right but i'm talkin applications for only spraying nitrous to be on the safe side especially going to a bigger shot.
Sorry, I didn't read back far enough. ;)
Extra octane is great insurance in that situation! :rock:

Black1 - It's actually the exhaust seats that are changed (hardened) for unleaded fuel. :)
 
Maybe I'm ignorant , im sure some will say yes:D

but instead of adding additives , isnt it more productive to run a race fuel?

I know my many years of racing and playing with different fuels doesnt buy me a pack of nabs and a pop, but i found its much more productive to tune for a street fuel that you can get every day, and then a tune for race day with actual real race fuel.

That way you dont have to do a ton of calculating to figure if by chance you got the right combination or not.

Race fuel it high , I usually paid $22 gal for the bikes, but to play on the high side it is just good insurance.

For me I have spent too much time and money puttin together an engine to take a small chance with trying to figure out the right combination and be wrong and watch $10,000 go out the side of the block:D


not saying bone doesnt have a good idea, just not the way I would lean:p
 
Stinker said:
Maybe I'm ignorant , im sure some will say yes:D

but instead of adding additives , isnt it more productive to run a race fuel?

I know my many years of racing and playing with different fuels doesnt buy me a pack of nabs and a pop, but i found its much more productive to tune for a street fuel that you can get every day, and then a tune for race day with actual real race fuel.

That way you dont have to do a ton of calculating to figure if by chance you got the right combination or not.

Race fuel it high , I usually paid $22 gal for the bikes, but to play on the high side it is just good insurance.

For me I have spent too much time and money puttin together an engine to take a small chance with trying to figure out the right combination and be wrong and watch $10,000 go out the side of the block:D


not saying bone doesnt have a good idea, just not the way I would lean:p

$22/gal :dontknow:
It's about $7 here.

BTW - I agree with you. It's nice pumping it from a known source.:)
 
The 100 or 110 octane out of the pump is not actually race gas, its actually, well, and dont take it the wrong way but junk.

On the dyno I regularly lost a few ponies with that stuff,

VP makes all kinds of different fuels that are very oxygenated that work really well.

but yeah bro, anywhere from $110 to $120 for 5 gal of mr9:D
 
Black1 said:
Ahhh, thanks Jack. :D I knew I heard something about valve guides. :D (I think I heard that you have to CHANGE the valve guides in a old motor... say a 1967 350... when you rebuild it. Because we don't have leaded fuel anymore, which means no lubrication.). :)
Jake
Valve guides are not an issue it's the valve seat . They say without lead to act as a cushion you will wear out seats so they replace them with hardened .
This is partially true in that a high compression engine will prob wear them out faster than low but I hardly believe in a stock configuration it's nessesary unless you are already doing the valve job . I have run Model A's on unleaded and know guys that have for many miles with no problem up to muscle car stuff with no mods and no problems so I really believe a lot of info out there is mearly BS :dontknow: :dontknow: :dontknow:
Have A Kind Day
Mike
 
i heard about the acetone but i don't know what the break down of it is and how to mix it and how many gallons to mix with.does anyone know?
 
Spend the money for race gas, it's cheap insurance

Pump Gas = Possible detonation with Nitrous.

:mad: .....:mad: ..... Results = $6000.00-$14000.00 motor replacemant or rebuild.


Race Gas = No detonation with Nitrous.

:confused: .....:confused: .....Results = an extra $20.00-$100.00 spent for the weekend.


:idea: .....:idea: .....Having fun, with peace of mind = priceless.


Guys don't cheap out, as it is false economy. It is like when people say something is as good as.
When they are comparing an inferior product to the standard, it is usually only to justify some form of self deception.

Race gas became the standard when spraying Nitrous beacuse it works = safe .

Sometimes AS GOOD AS is OK, but not with the results being potentially over the top cost wise.

When an motor fails due to detonation it is very evident as to the reason/cause.

When you blow a motor while sprying it is very obvious you were spraying at the time.

Warranty will not help you at that point.
 
i heard about the acetone but i don't know what the break down of it is and how to mix it and how many gallons to mix with.does anyone know?
type in ACETONE in the search box, there is a thread concering this, i have been using 2 fluid ounces per 10 gallons of gas, it really smooths the engine out:D
 
Marc T said:
Speaking of Chemicals, this is an interesting topic. Anyone tried this first hand?? http://www.pureenergysystems.com/news/2005/03/17/6900069_Acetone/

Yes, I use an Ethanol blend 93 octane in my SRT. The engine really responds to the octane but takes a drop in mileage because ethanol is an oxygenate. When the O2 sensors detect the extra oxygen, the ecu supplies MORE fuel to compensate.
So, I have been using Acetone to help offset this, for a little over a year. An 11-15% increase in mileage esp, in colder weather. Just don't use too much (like they did on Myth Busters) or it won't work.
Also, don't dump some in and expect the overhead console is going to show an immediate increase. I never go by that thing; I just figure it out the old fashioned way.

P.S. It is also cleans the inside of the exhaust tips over time.

Ron
 
sunoco gt 250 AKA cam 2 gt race gas. just pull up to pump. 5.39 a gallon 100 octane unleaded its made for hot rods and exotic sports cars i did some research before i started using it
 
Last edited:
Ya'll guys really just dont get it:confused:

fuel that is out of the ground in a tank, supposed to be 100 octane or so is usually dead fuel.

Fuel that is any good is oxygenated,, and that kind of fuel must be kept capped off.

the 100 octane fuel you get at the pump is no better than 93 octane, it just smells good.

Just ask any person with knowledge of fuels

excuse me I had to edit and say one more thing



DUMBASSES!!:D
 
Stinker said:
Ya'll guys really just dont get it:confused:

fuel that is out of the ground in a tank, supposed to be 100 octane or so is usually dead fuel.

Fuel that is any good is oxygenated,, and that kind of fuel must be kept capped off.

the 100 octane fuel you get at the pump is no better than 93 octane, it just smells good.

Just ask any person with knowledge of fuels

excuse me I had to edit and say one more thing

DUMBASSES!!:D

So what has this to do with Octane Booster? :dontknow:
U have been beating up this thread.
You need to start a Race Fuel thread instead of hacking up this quality post.:idea::D :eek:
 
FSTJACK said:
Pump Gas = Possible detonation with Nitrous.

:mad: .....:mad: ..... Results = $6000.00-$14000.00 motor replacemant or rebuild.


Race Gas = No detonation with Nitrous.

:confused: .....:confused: .....Results = an extra $20.00-$100.00 spent for the weekend.


:idea: .....:idea: .....Having fun, with peace of mind = priceless.


Guys don't cheap out, as it is false economy. It is like when people say something is as good as.
When they are comparing an inferior product to the standard, it is usually only to justify some form of self deception.

Race gas became the standard when spraying Nitrous beacuse it works = safe .

Sometimes AS GOOD AS is OK, but not with the results being potentially over the top cost wise.

When an motor fails due to detonation it is very evident as to the reason/cause.

When you blow a motor while sprying it is very obvious you were spraying at the time.

Warranty will not help you at that point.

because octae booster is just a bandaid, its a complete shot in the dark.

If you want to build a $10,000 engine you dont go and put $2 fuel or $3 octane boost in it.

If ya do , thats your choice, its your engine, but many of your top engine builders, and top racers of all kinds will tell you the same thing.

fuels are specific, there are specific two stroke fuels that give different burns.

As well as different fuels for nos, compression, trq, an so -on.

And different fuels need different tunes or most of the time they are almost usless.

I could give many specific examples from racing motorcyles , but as I see most will keep on wasting money on pump fuel or additives, so...

but you are correct Bone, I will leave it alone bro, I just didnt want to see anyone loose and engine because of screwing up a formula by mistake, or possibly thinking that a Cam 2, or the purple gas from a pump is gonna give them hp or keep them from detonating.


apologies sent





.
 
first off let me say,,,my speeling is gona suck

but as for toulene,,,,ive been using it more then just about anyone:star:


the octane rating is about 114 unleaded:rock: xylene is about 116 unleaded:rock:

ive used toulene because i could get it cheaper and easier the xylene,,,,,but ive used both

the conversion on mixing 91 octane,,,or any octane fuel is easy,,,,1 gallon of 91 octane and one gallon of 114 toulene= 114 plus 91=205 devided by 2 and thats your octane

tou and xyl blend perfect with gasoline or methanol

and if you guys get good at that blend,,,,,i will show you how to use nitromethane with it,,,,,,,,:dancing:
 
one more thing,,,,if you have rubber fuel lines in the tank you better change them first,,,,,rubber will swell up to the point of losing fuel pressure
 

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