Oil Brand/Weight?

Venomous Ram

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2013
Messages
90
Reaction score
13
Location
Peoria, AZ
Hi guys, I'm getting ready to perform some routine maintenance. I've been doing a lot of reading and searching for more info and seems like everyone either sticks with what the manual calls for or they go a different route. Lots of stuff on engine & trans oils, not a whole lot for the rear diff. Here is my questions:

I already have on hand 6qts of Mobil-1 full synthetic 75w-90LS gear oil, I was planning on using on the rear diff with a couple bottles of modifier. Is this weight ok to use? Manual calls for just 90w. Or would I be better off using the 75w-140 weight version?

For the Manual Trans: I went and picked up what it called for in the manual Castrol syntorq I bought from the Dodge dealer, Does modifier get added to this also?

Engine oil: I was undecided to either use Mobil-1 0w-40 or use Rotella T6 full synthetic 5w-40. I read a ton of reviews and from what I gathered, the Rotella T6 is a great heavy duty full synthetic oil.
So, I purchased the Rotella T6 over the Mobil-1 and I'm going to use the proper Viper oil filter (bought from dealer) with it. Would that be a good combo? Or should the Mobil-1 0w-40 be used? Just looking for some input and any advise would be helpful, thanks...
 
Last edited:
I would use the 75/90 in the rear axle, but don't use the factory oil in the transmission. Change to a good quality ATF instead.
 
I used mobile one 75-140ls and one bottle of FM in the differential, transmission I used mobile one atf as a "flush" for a few hundred miles then put redline d4 synthetic atf. Engine either 0-40 or 15-50 for hot climate(AZ in your case the heavier) IMO just my. 02. Just use high quality synthetics .....
 
Being in the heat i would recommend using a lil (heavier) oil...like a 50 wt...when it cools down switch back to the 15 40 or 0 40...just my. 02$..Also the ATF in the t56 will give you a lil more (noise) but they seem to be happier running it vs the goop ma mopar recommends.....:D:):D:)
 
I use the Mobil1 0-40 and replace one quart with Lucas full synthetic additive. I have 102k miles living here in AZ and it was my daily driven pool truck for two years as well as raced, alot.
 
Thanks for the feedback.... Is anyone using the Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 Full synthetic in their Rams? I'm curious to see how its doing compared to the Mobil-1 0w-40.

So, the 75w-90 Mobil-1 Gear oil is ok to use?
 
Mobil 1 all the way bro! I've run 95k miles here in Texas year round with 15/50. If I could get 15/50 I ran 10/40. Doesn't thin out too much in hear, dropping oil pressure ;)
 
Over 125K miles using only Mobile 0-40....yes, even in our hot phx summers. Other fluids have only been OEM. In cold climates the OEM transfluid can make shifting really stiff when you first take off. (I also have a place in Flagstaff) Biggest thing you can do is flush that brake and clutch fluid. I do my clutch fluid at every other oil change...its quick and easy. Yes, I'm still original clutch components as well.
 
Last edited:
Over 125K miles using only Mobile 0-40....yes, even in our hot phx summers. Other fluids have only been OEM. In cold climates the OEM transfluid can make shifting really stiff when you first take off. (I also have a place in Flagstaff) Biggest thing you can do is flush that brake and clutch fluid. I do my clutch fluid at every other oil change...its quick and easy. Yes, I'm still original clutch components as well.

I totally agree with flushing clutch system often! It's seems one things is common regardless of weight preference, and its Mobil1 has succeeded in providing years and miles of protection. Although Mobil 1 isn't quite as good as it once was, its still top notch engine protection. :burnout:
 
Any special procedure for bleeding/flushing the clutch??? DOT4 brake fluid??
 
Any special procedure for bleeding/flushing the clutch??? DOT4 brake fluid??

No, but if you want to make it really stupid easy simply open the clutch resv cover and remove fluid. Replace with new fluid and done. There is surprisingly very little clutch fluid in the system and just swapping out the resv fluid gets the majority. Do it at the intervals I suggest and your fluid will always be good.

Fluid turning bad quickly is common in the motorcycle world...could be from using very little fluid to poor seals and/or use of uncoated aluminum within the system (like Aprilia/Ducati).
 
Any special procedure for bleeding/flushing the clutch??? DOT4 brake fluid??

Flushing it is easy! Similar to bleeding brakes, the bleeder is on the driver side top of transmission. Make sure you don't run the reservoir empty while doing it. You can always text me if you would like more info. :D
 
Flushing it is easy! Similar to bleeding brakes, the bleeder is on the driver side top of transmission. Make sure you don't run the reservoir empty while doing it. You can always text me if you would like more info. :D

Thanks, will do.....
 
Biggest thing you can do is flush that brake and clutch fluid.

I wanted to flush my brakes at the next oil change but can't really find any tips on our trucks. Is it just like other systems or are there any little "tricks" to it?
 
Thanks for the feedback everyone: I already purchased the Rotella T6 5w-40 full synthetic, but haven't done the service yet. Should I give it a try? Or return it and get the Mobil-1 0w-40. They both have excellent reviews, just seems like the Rotella is more heavy duty.
 

Latest posts

Support Us

Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Back
Top