OK getting REAL ready to do my build. Opinions please!

[robwclark]

OK this is on my personal truck, so I will only cut certain corners. I need opinons on exactly what parts I need. My truck is an 06 model. I have the engine out ready to tear down. The block is fine, just has minor blow-by. I have a paxton going back on the truck along with building a forged motor. I will try the smaller pully to get as much boost as the paxton will make. I am staying stock or close to stock ci. I would like to put a cam in to compliment the blower. I am running a paxton here, so the heads probably need to stay stock, correct? My performce parts are in my sig. I want BANG FOR THE BUCK! So I will spend extra if it is worth it, but otherwise I want to go the least expensive route. I will be calling Stinker, and prob getting everything through him, but I want everyones opinion here. The parts I will be needing in the next 2 weeks are:

1. Forged Pistons, which ones, what rings, what compression?

2. Forged Rods, unless my factory rods will support 800-1000HP.

3. Forged Crank, unless the factory crank will support the power.

4. Camshaft. I know its gay, but I want it lumpy as hell at the cost of a few hp. I doubt a cam costs power though, so which cam do I go with? Of course I want more power. Should I just call up Comp Cams and trust them to grind me a good one?

5. Clutch? What clutch do I go with? I have a Centerforce now that doesnt slip too bad, but is pretty sloppy with my old 640WHP. I want a GOOD tight jank when I drop the pedal/shift gears. JMB has the monster $1600 job?

6. Aluminum flywheel, or stay with factory?

7. Rocker arms, or stay with stock?

8. Mild head porting, or leave them alone right?

9. Larger injectors. I am ditching the paxton split second box. I have a VEC3, so I want to get bigger injectors, and tune it accordingly.

10. Tank fuel pump. Stock or get something stronger.

11. Throttle body. Stock or go bigger?

12. Intercooler. I am ditching the factory paxton water to air, & doing something like scrambler1 had built. I may even still buy his stuff if he wants to sell it. If not where do I get a bigass air-to-air intercooler.

*Question while I am at it. Scrambler and others have used much larger intake tubing with their paxtons from the blower to the intake. My thought is to try and keep the same size diameter plumbing between the blower and the intake. Thats the way paxton did it, is there really a reason to run larger intake tubes with the risk of lowering the boost? What do you guys think?

OK please you educated "been-there-done-that" guys, help me out. I just need opinions. Thanks in advance. Robert

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

i'll give you my opinions monday bud, after everyone else has. but will be glad to help you out any way i can, we have clints motor currently at $730 rwhp, with absolutly no timing advance at all. going to bed now, the shop redo is a bitch

 

[eddie102870]

upir build should be close to what im doing and what clint has dont i went with the mccleod clutch and dts rear end.

 

[SANTEEN]

OK this is on my personal truck, so I will only cut certain corners. I need opinons on exactly what parts I need. My truck is an 06 model. I have the engine out ready to tear down. The block is fine, just has minor blow-by. I have a paxton going back on the truck along with building a forged motor. I will try the smaller pully to get as much boost as the paxton will make. I am staying stock or close to stock ci. I would like to put a cam in to compliment the blower. I am running a paxton here, so the heads probably need to stay stock, correct? My performce parts are in my sig. I want BANG FOR THE BUCK! So I will spend extra if it is worth it, but otherwise I want to go the least expensive route. I will be calling Stinker, and prob getting everything through him, but I want everyones opinion here. The parts I will be needing in the next 2 weeks are:

1. Forged Pistons, which ones, what rings, what compression?

2. Forged Rods, unless my factory rods will support 800-1000HP.

3. Forged Crank, unless the factory crank will support the power.

4. Camshaft. I know its gay, but I want it lumpy as hell at the cost of a few hp. I doubt a cam costs power though, so which cam do I go with? Of course I want more power. Should I just call up Comp Cams and trust them to grind me a good one?

5. Clutch? What clutch do I go with? I have a Centerforce now that doesnt slip too bad, but is pretty sloppy with my old 640WHP. I want a GOOD tight jank when I drop the pedal/shift gears. JMB has the monster $1600 job?

6. Aluminum flywheel, or stay with factory?

7. Rocker arms, or stay with stock?

8. Mild head porting, or leave them alone right?

9. Larger injectors. I am ditching the paxton split second box. I have a VEC3, so I want to get bigger injectors, and tune it accordingly.

10. Tank fuel pump. Stock or get something stronger.

11. Throttle body. Stock or go bigger?

12. Intercooler. I am ditching the factory paxton water to air, & doing something like scrambler1 had built. I may even still buy his stuff if he wants to sell it. If not where do I get a bigass air-to-air intercooler.

*Question while I am at it. Scrambler and others have used much larger intake tubing with their paxtons from the blower to the intake. My thought is to try and keep the same size diameter plumbing between the blower and the intake. Thats the way paxton did it, is there really a reason to run larger intake tubes with the risk of lowering the boost? What do you guys think?

OK please you educated "been-there-done-that" guys, help me out. I just need opinions. Thanks in advance. Robert

Be carefull here. I've heard the cam can greatly affect boost. I may be wrong, but I'm sure the experts will chime in.

Dump the VEC 3 also, get the larger injectors, get an SCT and give Torrie a call. He'll get you straight

 

[Silverback]

You do want to port and polish the heads if you can afford it. All of your HP comes from getting air and fuel into the motor. Nothing in the bottom end adds HP.

A common mistake that is made is that if I'm running some form of boost adder, that the head work is not necessary. This is wrong.

I will give you an example and for this we are assuming that both engines have the same blower setups.

So engine "A" has stock head and is running 15 pounds of boost and has 550 HP. Engine "B" has ported and polished heads with larger valves and only produces 12 pounds of boost, but puts out 650 HP. Why is it producing more HP with less boost? Flow. Because of the porting and larger valves it has less restriction in the system, hense the lower boost readings. Also since it has better flow, it's allowing more of the air/fuel mixture into the cylinder so you get more HP.

Make sense?:dontknow:

 

[Silverback]

Be carefull here. I've heard the cam can greatly affect boost. I may be wrong, but I'm sure the experts will chime in.

Dump the VEC 3 also, get the larger injectors, get an SCT and give Torrie a call. He'll get you straight

You are correct. A cam for a blower setup will have less overlap as it's not required.

 

[Yellow venom]

Program billet mains highly advised also,I bumped my CR down to 9:2:1 ,I'm running a ROE also,for head work I had ported and polished lightly on intake and focused more on exhaust side,stainless valves(had back cut too),bigger custom fitted push rods,stiffer beehive springs,for sure forged pistons(I went with custom cp racing) and forged K1 rods with oversized GM style wrist pins with wire locks,I also had bearings coated also,stock rockers and lifter are fine,stock crank is fine as long as its straight and no wear issues( I had mine polished and nitrated),for clutch DC Performace has some good ones for big power,I'm using a single blade throttle body, And I'm also running a SCT Tuner,good luck on your build

 

[FerrariTruck]

so you want to make 700+ hp on a budget?? :congrats:

 

[Tooloe]

Rob you pretty much have the basic idea....

-Head work if you can afford it
- Custom FI Cam is the only way to go... " if you talk to david at ART he can get your heads ported for you with a FI cam to match the head specs He sends his work to Greg Good
-Me Personaly i would tune with the SCT... alot less head ache.. i would love to help out on this build since your only 20 min down the road! should be a beast!

 

[Dom426]

you do not need an aftermarket crankshaft....but if you have lots of extra cash like 3-5k be my guest

 

[Dom426]

1. Forged Pistons, which ones, what rings, what compression? def lower comp i use diamond your choice

2. Forged Rods, unless my factory rods will support 800-1000HP. i do not believe i would trust the stck rods to that hp level

3. Forged Crank, unless the factory crank will support the power. stay stock!

4. Camshaft. I know its gay, but I want it lumpy as hell at the cost of a few hp. I doubt a cam costs power though, so which cam do I go with? Of course I want more power. Should I just call up Comp Cams and trust them to grind me a good one? have builder design and get custom ground

5. Clutch? What clutch do I go with? I have a Centerforce now that doesnt slip too bad, but is pretty sloppy with my old 640WHP. I want a GOOD tight jank when I drop the pedal/shift gears. JMB has the monster $1600 job?
centerforce will not hold that power mccleod twin disk luckily i have 2 of them and that will save you money they come with ther own fly wheel also
6. Aluminum flywheel, or stay with factory?
the mccleod im selling you comes with the fly wheel

7. Rocker arms, or stay with stock?
aftermarket
8. Mild head porting, or leave them alone right?
yeah not much unless you planning on goin turbo or big procharger
9. Larger injectors. I am ditching the paxton split second box. I have a VEC3, so I want to get bigger injectors, and tune it accordingly.sounds good i like the vec its what i use

10. Tank fuel pump. Stock or get something stronger.
2or 3 intank walboros justin makes this setup also

11. Throttle body. Stock or go bigger?
on fi an aftermarket one might help i have the roe

12. Intercooler. I am ditching the factory paxton water to air, & doing something like scrambler1 had built. I may even still buy his stuff if he wants to sell it. If not where do I get a bigass air-to-air intercooler.
justin can get a big intercooler that would work good

 

[Tooloe]

1. Forged Pistons, which ones, what rings, what compression? def lower comp i use diamond your choice

2. Forged Rods, unless my factory rods will support 800-1000HP. i do not believe i would trust the stck rods to that hp level

3. Forged Crank, unless the factory crank will support the power. stay stock!

4. Camshaft. I know its gay, but I want it lumpy as hell at the cost of a few hp. I doubt a cam costs power though, so which cam do I go with? Of course I want more power. Should I just call up Comp Cams and trust them to grind me a good one? have builder design and get custom ground

5. Clutch? What clutch do I go with? I have a Centerforce now that doesnt slip too bad, but is pretty sloppy with my old 640WHP. I want a GOOD tight jank when I drop the pedal/shift gears. JMB has the monster $1600 job?
centerforce will not hold that power mccleod twin disk luckily i have 2 of them and that will save you money they come with ther own fly wheel also
6. Aluminum flywheel, or stay with factory?
the mccleod im selling you comes with the fly wheel

7. Rocker arms, or stay with stock?
aftermarket
8. Mild head porting, or leave them alone right?
yeah not much unless you planning on goin turbo or big procharger
9. Larger injectors. I am ditching the paxton split second box. I have a VEC3, so I want to get bigger injectors, and tune it accordingly.sounds good i like the vec its what i use

10. Tank fuel pump. Stock or get something stronger.
2or 3 intank walboros justin makes this setup also

11. Throttle body. Stock or go bigger?
on fi an aftermarket one might help i have the roe

12. Intercooler. I am ditching the factory paxton water to air, & doing something like scrambler1 had built. I may even still buy his stuff if he wants to sell it. If not where do I get a bigass air-to-air intercooler.
justin can get a big intercooler that would work good

sent you a PM about the clutch.... i want one

 

[robwclark]

I'll be calling you Stink.

i'll give you my opinions monday bud, after everyone else has. but will be glad to help you out any way i can, we have clints motor currently at $730 rwhp, with absolutly no timing advance at all. going to bed now, the shop redo is a bitch

 

[robwclark]

Be carefull here. I've heard the cam can greatly affect boost. I may be wrong, but I'm sure the experts will chime in.

Dump the VEC 3 also, get the larger injectors, get an SCT and give Torrie a call. He'll get you straight

Can you explain the SCT? I really have no idea exactly how they work. Why is it better than the VEC3? Is it easier to tune? Can you even tune it yourself? I already have a VEC2 that came on the truck. My truck is Chris Sanders old truck. It got repod from him, and I bought it from my corporate office for personal use. I didnt have the VEC3 software, and just ordered it from Sean at Roe Racing. It will now be a VEC3. Do I really need to ditch the VEC3 in favor of an SCT? Is it really THAT much easier/better to use? Thanks

 

[robwclark]

You do want to port and polish the heads if you can afford it. All of your HP comes from getting air and fuel into the motor. Nothing in the bottom end adds HP.

A common mistake that is made is that if I'm running some form of boost adder, that the head work is not necessary. This is wrong.

I will give you an example and for this we are assuming that both engines have the same blower setups.

So engine "A" has stock head and is running 15 pounds of boost and has 550 HP. Engine "B" has ported and polished heads with larger valves and only produces 12 pounds of boost, but puts out 650 HP. Why is it producing more HP with less boost? Flow. Because of the porting and larger valves it has less restriction in the system, hense the lower boost readings. Also since it has better flow, it's allowing more of the air/fuel mixture into the cylinder so you get more HP.

Make sense?:dontknow:

Yes it actually makes perfect sense, BUT!!, there are 2 or 3 guys on here that cant make any more power than they did with stock engine/paxton combo. They spent all that $$$ getting head jobs, big cams, big ci. Where did they go wrong???? I am plumb scared to touch the heads. The way I see things, is go with whats proven. I am not much of a pioneer. I know what power I made with the stock motor & paxton combo. I just hate to spend $$$ head porting, and then not be able to make boost. The paxton only moves soooo much air. SO, am I just stupid, or is headwork a certain "not-mistake"? Thanks

 

[robwclark]

You are correct. A cam for a blower setup will have less overlap as it's not required.

I want a lumpy cam, just for the sound. I know its gay, and I'm a fag, but I want that lumpity, lump! As long as it doesnt seriously hurt power its worth it to me.

 

[robwclark]

Program billet mains highly advised also,I bumped my CR down to 9:2:1 ,I'm running a ROE also,for head work I had ported and polished lightly on intake and focused more on exhaust side,stainless valves(had back cut too),bigger custom fitted push rods,stiffer beehive springs,for sure forged pistons(I went with custom cp racing) and forged K1 rods with oversized GM style wrist pins with wire locks,I also had bearings coated also,stock rockers and lifter are fine,stock crank is fine as long as its straight and no wear issues( I had mine polished and nitrated),for clutch DC Performace has some good ones for big power,I'm using a single blade throttle body, And I'm also running a SCT Tuner,good luck on your build

Is your truck running yet? If not hows it coming along?

 

[robwclark]

Rob you pretty much have the basic idea....

-Head work if you can afford it
- Custom FI Cam is the only way to go... " if you talk to david at ART he can get your heads ported for you with a FI cam to match the head specs He sends his work to Greg Good
-Me Personaly i would tune with the SCT... alot less head ache.. i would love to help out on this build since your only 20 min down the road! should be a beast!

Man your welcome to come help anytime. I wouldnt mind calling ART, but dude, I simply cant afford what they charge. I am doing EVERYTHING myself, I just need opinions on where to get all the parts, etc. You think the SCT is better too, ok cool.

 

[robwclark]

1. Forged Pistons, which ones, what rings, what compression? def lower comp i use diamond your choice

2. Forged Rods, unless my factory rods will support 800-1000HP. i do not believe i would trust the stck rods to that hp level

3. Forged Crank, unless the factory crank will support the power. stay stock!

4. Camshaft. I know its gay, but I want it lumpy as hell at the cost of a few hp. I doubt a cam costs power though, so which cam do I go with? Of course I want more power. Should I just call up Comp Cams and trust them to grind me a good one? have builder design and get custom ground

5. Clutch? What clutch do I go with? I have a Centerforce now that doesnt slip too bad, but is pretty sloppy with my old 640WHP. I want a GOOD tight jank when I drop the pedal/shift gears. JMB has the monster $1600 job?
centerforce will not hold that power mccleod twin disk luckily i have 2 of them and that will save you money they come with ther own fly wheel also
6. Aluminum flywheel, or stay with factory?
the mccleod im selling you comes with the fly wheel

7. Rocker arms, or stay with stock?
aftermarket
8. Mild head porting, or leave them alone right?
yeah not much unless you planning on goin turbo or big procharger
9. Larger injectors. I am ditching the paxton split second box. I have a VEC3, so I want to get bigger injectors, and tune it accordingly.sounds good i like the vec its what i use

10. Tank fuel pump. Stock or get something stronger.
2or 3 intank walboros justin makes this setup also

11. Throttle body. Stock or go bigger?
on fi an aftermarket one might help i have the roe

12. Intercooler. I am ditching the factory paxton water to air, & doing something like scrambler1 had built. I may even still buy his stuff if he wants to sell it. If not where do I get a bigass air-to-air intercooler.
justin can get a big intercooler that would work good

Yo 505, what do I call you?

Your in NM right? Your not all that far from me. I may hit you up for some tuning with the VEC3.

On the camshaft. Exactly what cam do you have, and where did you get it? Cams for these things are not spoken of very often, so finding a good "tried and true" fi cam is HARD to do IMO.

On the clutch, you truly believe the McLeod clutch is worth the $$$? I am seriously considering it.

Rockers. What rockers are there? Are they seriously worth the $$$, remember I am going for bang for the buck here! If they are only gonna help me with 15 hp and they cost $500, I'm out. So again, are they worth it?

Heads....Put yourself in my shoes(basically stock ci forged engine with only a paxton). EXACTLY, what would you have done to my heads if you were building my truck?? Your definately a been there done that guy, so I really am listening to your opinion here.

Fuel pumps. I dont really want something someone else has built and now sells(justin), but I will consider. How much is this setup? I would rather just get a stronger pump and install it. I dont understand when you say "setup" what is involved besides just changing the pump? could you explain?

Intercooler. Who is Justin, and where does he get the intercooler? I want to get it as direct from the place that builds it as I can. I am a do-it-yourselfer BIGTIME, so I want everything as cheap as possible. I have a business license, and can generally get hooked up with the manufacturers, unless they require a buy-in. Thanks man, I sincerely appreciate your responses.

Robert

 

[jontyre]

Justin is jmbperformance.com