PCM/Fan/Temp Question

Like I been saying all along : DC Performance is a better flash

B&G is good,but DC is just better

Having said that,these engines rare designed to work best right at 200*
I just worry when they go over 180 or so
 
Wow the reasons you are having these problems is because the hyd fan is Pulse Width Modulated. At 0% modulation you get 500-1000rpm from the fan minimum (200psi-ish). At 100% modulation you get the max from the fan (1400psi-ish). That is why wiring it to a switch will give you full speed but no way to reduce the speed with resistors or switches. Could do a thermostatic switch that would force 100% at a specific temps (cheap easy mod) and you wouldn't have to remember to turn it on (I'm going to use one for my electric water pump). Or get an external PWM that could control it. Personally a flash would make the most sense though........
 
GILMO'S10 said:
Ahh the hell with it!! Again!! I got leaks to worry about!!


I did a little research for you there mr frustrated:D

Seems as tho BG dont like setting the fan to come on earlier than it should, you must "demand" it.

Chris at DC does it automatically, so you may be able to contact Chris, and maybe for a small fee he may set the fan controls in the pcm at a lower temp for you guys, not sure, but may be worth asking
 
i just put in my Dc flashed pcm but i havent put in the stat cuz of some minor confusion. i know u have to drain the coolant, take apart the housing, change the stat, and fill it back up - using the breather plug... but- I've read threads that say distilled water and some that say the hoat coolant.... which is it, because my fan is on high alot and its loud.
 
I didnt drain the system. I just took the t stat housing off and changed the t stat. You will loose some coolant (aprox 1/2 gal) but thats ok. I put everything back together and re-filled it with distilled water. i dont know what you mean about refilling it through the breather plug.
 

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