Performance installers

bassfrad said:
whats wrong with my cooler lines.:dontknow:

The factory Dodge ones end up leaking. There is a good chance yours already are.
I just put Stinkers on my 06 with 18k miles on it a couple days ago. There are 2 that run from the block to an oil cooler in the front passenger side of the truck, under the air box. You can see them from the front near the radiator.
 
Mine are not leaking but I do have something funny going on. I loose all oil pressure if I hammer around a curve or punch it any thing south of 85 MPH. It looses all oil pressure and dont come back untill you kill it and restart, not fun at 125
 
bassfrad said:
Mine are not leaking but I do have something funny going on. I loose all oil pressure if I hammer around a curve or punch it any thing south of 85 MPH. It looses all oil pressure and dont come back untill you kill it and restart, not fun at 125

That doesn't sound good.
 
I think my pickup tube has fallen off. Do you know if it is a press fit, slip in, or a bolt on swivel type that follows oil flow.
 
ok went back and read some of your posts........he does have a quad cab....what are your modsnow? my buddies 06 quad cab....puts down 487 at the wheels with notthing but bolt ons!!!!!the irst thing you need to do is get your pcm flashed or get a sct tuner this will be huge bang for the buck remove the cats while your at it and you will have a whole new truck i promise!!!!!!!
 
What about the O2 sensors? and can I just chip it and get the same results? its still under waranty so unpluging would be a plus. When I do a SC I wont worry about warranty but for bolt ons and pcms I'll try to keep warranty in mind.
 
just for starters I want build a bottom end for less then 10k, thats jsut the bottom end also, heads intake another story, but I got a damn good builder at the moment also, so build should last an hold up to almost anything, you can build them cheaper, but I look at it as a one time deal, go right the first time you dont have to do it a second.

but if you want to keep warranty

get an SCT tuner from torrie, best way to contact him is to email him at [email protected] mention jts venom performance and you get a really good deal, plus he is one of the best around.

delete the cats, have him turn these off for ya and you shouldnt need simulators,also since you are in a half an half area of climate its up to you about the fan turning on at 170

get a cat back, loosens up some back pressure

throttle body seems to help

change the plugs, bingo, instant power

keep the fluids changed to synthetic

if you can afford a couple grand on headers, do so, they do yield hp.

a cold air intake , well they are more bling, but Justins is bar none the best around.

at that point you should have an easy 465+ rwhp

from there its picky little things such as coils, wires, porting, bling, but with most of that , with the exception of the cats, it would keep you mostly in warranty depending on your dealer.

going fast in a 10 starts at 10.............10k to be exact
 
Go forged before you go bigger...or its not gunna be pretty
 
alot of guys say dallas is pretty good, i have never dealt with them, I guess it depends on which direction you are going
 
bassfrad said:
Can dallas performance do all of this and do it well.

call & talk to Taylor.

he is who i used for the before & after Stinker's coil dynos.

saw some excellent workmanship there & Taylor is a sharp dude
 
Anyone know what the round weight bar under the rear of the bed is for. Its round and can rock back and forth. looks to be about 3 feet long.
 
bassfrad said:
Anyone know what the round weight bar under the rear of the bed is for. Its round and can rock back and forth. looks to be about 3 feet long.

guess no one does:dontknow: :dontknow: :dontknow:
 

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