Price on engine build

Travis

Travis

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hey, kind of a big question to ask but can anybody estimate the price on a total engine build: forged pistons, rods, etc. basically to prep for four digit horsepower numbers, it's a very long term goal but i figured why not find out just for the hell of it,

thanks,
Travis
 
I say low side, 10k for the right stuff, to 15k those are prices that will make the engine last.

You can go cheaper with jsut pistons and rods, but sooner or later..........;)


the big deal on these engines is the mains, they are waaaayyyy too small, it needs billet mains to live long
 
Stinker said:
I say low side, 10k for the right stuff, to 15k those are prices that will make the engine last.

You can go cheaper with jsut pistons and rods, but sooner or later..........;)


the big deal on these engines is the mains, they are waaaayyyy too small, it needs billet mains to live long
Click to expand...

sorry , :eek: , what are the mains ? :confused: :dontknow:
 
belgiumbarry said:
thanks Brad, ok, the bearings....so what exactly do they substitute ?
Click to expand...
You don't want to know the price of main bearings!
 
belgiumbarry said:
thanks Brad, ok, the bearings....so what exactly do they substitute ?
Click to expand...


I dotn have a pic right now, but the main caps are under the engine kinda if you look at the oil pan, the crank rides in there on bearings, and it has caps that hold in the bearings.

the oem caps are tiny and fragile, and aftermarket main caps are four times as beefy, and made of billet instead of th oem junk:D

you have to remove the engine, completely dissasemble, install the mains, then its line bored to make sure it is all straight then the bearings and crank are installed, it helps the crank stay where it needs to when making big hp or turning the engine to 6000rpms or better.

i think mains run $750 and usually the same or more for the line boring
 
The factory uses a very small cast iron main bearing cap.
Billet steel main bearing caps are necessary
Billet steel main bearing caps do not move around as much and do not frett against the block under load.
 
FSTJACK said:
The factory uses a very small cast iron main bearing cap.
Billet steel main bearing caps are necessary
Billet steel main bearing caps do not move around as much and do not frett against the block under load.
Click to expand...


frett?:confused: :confused: :confused: :p :D
 
Stinker said:
frett?:confused: :confused: :confused: :p :D
Click to expand...
Source: WordNet (r) 1.7

fret
n 1: agitation resulting from active worry; "don't get in a
stew"; "he's in a sweat about exams" [syn: stew, sweat,
lather, swither]
2: a small bar of metal across the fingerboard of a musical
instrument; when the string is stopped by a finger at the
metal bar it will produce a note of the desired pitch
v 1: worry unnecessarily of excessively [syn: fuss, niggle]
2: be agitated or irritated
3: become or make sore by or as if by rubbing [syn: chafe, gall]
4: cause annoyance in
5: gnaw into; make resentful or angry; "The unjustice rankled
her" [syn: eat into, rankle, grate]
6: carve a pattern into
7: decorate with an interlaced design
8: be too tight; rub or press; "This neckband is choking the
cat" [syn: choke, gag]
9: cause friction; "my sweater scratches" [syn: rub, fray,
chafe, scratch]
10: remove soil or rock, as of wind or water; "Rain eroded the
terraces" [syn: erode, eat away]
11: wear away or erode [syn: eat away]
 
505'sFastestViper. said:
Source: WordNet (r) 1.7

fret
n 1: agitation resulting from active worry; "don't get in a
stew"; "he's in a sweat about exams" [syn: stew, sweat,
lather, swither]
2: a small bar of metal across the fingerboard of a musical
instrument; when the string is stopped by a finger at the
metal bar it will produce a note of the desired pitch
v 1: worry unnecessarily of excessively [syn: fuss, niggle]
2: be agitated or irritated
3: become or make sore by or as if by rubbing [syn: chafe, gall]
4: cause annoyance in
5: gnaw into; make resentful or angry; "The unjustice rankled
her" [syn: eat into, rankle, grate]
6: carve a pattern into
7: decorate with an interlaced design
8: be too tight; rub or press; "This neckband is choking the
cat" [syn: choke, gag]
9: cause friction; "my sweater scratches" [syn: rub, fray,
chafe, scratch]
10: remove soil or rock, as of wind or water; "Rain eroded the
terraces" [syn: erode, eat away]
11: wear away or erode [syn: eat away]
Click to expand...



LOLOL maybe he ment #8:D
 
Is it true that at 700HP the stock mains,trans & rearend are ok but 900HP or more you need to upgrade those parts?
 
HV SRT said:
Is it true that at 700HP the stock mains,trans & rearend are ok but 900HP or more you need to upgrade those parts?
Click to expand...


the rear axle I think would be ok as long as not too many drag trips are made, the weak link is the spiders, which if ya have cryoed, last alot longer.

the tranny, man I dont know, I can tell ya this tho, I have been runnin over 700rwhp ffor a couple years, and absolutly tortured it at bradenton for about 14 passes;) and on the street, and (nock on wood0 havent had problems yet.
I think the deal with the tranny is the driver, one person can just kill a tranny in moments whereas another may last years of minimal abuse.

the mains.... honestly I dont know wht to say on them, I would think for awhile they should be fine, but if the engine is subbmitted to continuous 6000rpms over and over, then ...........maybe not:D


Thats why mine is an ongoing build, cant afford to do everything at once, so the first year, I did the rear axle and the clutch, the next the engine, next tranny , then maybe heads:D
 
thanks for the answers, just wanted to get an idea, knew it would be expensive when i bought the truck and i still can't say i regret it:D
 
Does anybody make a main's stud girdle like are available for all big block Mopar V8's??
 
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