quarter mile time

moparviper

moparviper

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Looking for some advice on how to run a quicker quarter mile time. First il start b saying i run a 13.03 and 13.30 very consistently. From reading alot on here i feel like this is slow. Really slow. My mods are berlanger long tube headers with catless mid pipe. Magnaflow exhaust. Jtvs throttle body. 170 t stat. Volant cold air. Torries tune. B&m short throw. On the dyno i made 465 to the wheels and 509 toqure in a shop that was 95 degrees and humid as hell. And i also run my 390 M&H drag radials that i race at 12 pounds and consistently pull 1.75 to 1.85 60 foot times. 8.320 in the 1/8 mile. And i trap around 103 to 105.. any help???
 
From personnal experience: #1 12lbs is too low with drag radials, John at M&H was watching when I was at 15lbs, and he said the side wall was buckling, he recommended I add 2 lbs. I tried between 16.5 and 17 from then on and had better luck. #2 What RPM are you shifting at? Check your dyno sheet and see where peak horsepower occured. I'll guess with your mods it was between 5400 and 5600 rpm. If so you should shift at least at 5600, but better yet say 5800 ( I shift at 6,000 from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd). I had very similar mods and was running 12.64@109 at full 5,000 lbs weight. One other question.....what year is your truck?, if 2004 then change to 4.56 gears . After that , if you are serious then go to an aluminum flywheel and upgraded clutch hydraulics. ( Aluminum flywheel is worth 2/10's if you can drive.)
 
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Yes it is a 2004 and many people have told me to do that. Im gonna save that for the winter once im not driving it much. I shift at 5500 to 5600. I believe my peak power is at 5600. Also i dump the clutch at 4500 rpm. Seems to be the best for me. I tried running my DR at higher pounds but couldnt get any traction. Maybe its time for some new DR?
 
Where are you located? What was the temp and DA when you ran 13.03? I use to leave the line at about 3800 rpm, 4500 was too high with drag radials. Also do you power shift?
 
I ran a 13.71 @104 mph with catless mids CAI and SCT, sound to me like your DR's are donr( centres worn out) when you run lower air pressure you use more of the sides and that's where your getting your traction and when you air them up less side and more centre being used and traction dropping off.
 
Im in Cincinnati ohio. I believe were about 750 feet above sea level. Actually the sides of mine DR are completely cooked. Still have a tiny little bit of tread left in the middle. The temp. Was somewhere between 72 and 75. I havnt started to power shift at the track. I just tried power shifting for the first time yesterday on the street. Im worried about hurting the clutch or tranny.
 
you should be running mid-high 12's with a time like that... my best 60' is 1.88 and i run 8.2xx's

i have an 05 with the 4.56's... and i powershift when i'm at the track...

but when i go to the track... i care less about the truck and more about the times;)
 
moparviper said:
Seems like i need to invest in some 4.56 gears and new DRs? Anyone else have any advice??
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I have some. I've seen 4.10 gear trucks trap and time very well with similar mods. I don't think 4.56 are neccessity by any means. The drag radials sound fine if you can get 1.7s outta them. Being worn on the sides tells me they have been raced at too low tire pressure. Too low pressure will wear the sides and that's what you are launching off of. Too high pressure and you are launching off the middle of the tread. You have to find the sweet spot where you are using the entire contact patch of tire to grip. I believe 18psi or so:dontknow:
 
I have tried putting more air in all the way up to 18 pounds and nothing has hooked as well as 12 pounds. I'm thinking that ill have to stay at 12 pounds since the otter parts are already smooth until i buy new drag radials.
 
Something seems a little off, with that 60' you should be faster, maybe it is the gears.

With Mopar Long Tubes, Mopar Exhaust, and Cold Air Intake I ran a 12.771 with a 1.974 60' time on stock tires full weight. So based on your lower 60' times you should be faster. I don't POWER shift either, I like my trans :rock:
 
Maybe its the way the truck shift. When im racing and i go to slam it into second and third gear it seems like it gets caught on something then goes into gear. Idk if this is normal or not. I bought the truck with the b&m shifter already installed. Maybe that has something to do with it?
 
moparviper said:
Maybe its the way the truck shift. When im racing and i go to slam it into second and third gear it seems like it gets caught on something then goes into gear. Idk if this is normal or not. I bought the truck with the b&m shifter already installed. Maybe that has something to do with it?
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Possible, I did my runs with the stock shifter that everyone complained about but I never had an issue with it. I do have a B&M shifter now and is does seem a little quicker but I didn't see a huge difference, have never run at the track with it. It is alot noiser then the stock shifter though :(
 
moparviper said:
Maybe its the way the truck shift. When im racing and i go to slam it into second and third gear it seems like it gets caught on something then goes into gear. Idk if this is normal or not. I bought the truck with the b&m shifter already installed. Maybe that has something to do with it?
Click to expand...

Try bleeding your clutch via the fitting on the slave cylinder line. Remove the old oil from the master and add new. You shouldn't have any blocking of gears. Check your tranny oil as well and replace if need be.
 
I know i just got new tranny fluid about 5 thousand miles ago. But he shifter actually stopping and the going into gear is normal? Or isn't normal?
 
I talked to my mechanic at work and he said he didnt see any reason why it would be the clutch fluid. He said hes gonna look at the tranny fluid and that makes more sense to him.
 
moparviper said:
I talked to my mechanic at work and he said he didnt see any reason why it would be the clutch fluid. He said hes gonna look at the tranny fluid and that makes more sense to him.
Click to expand...

Because clutch fluid is brake fluid which is hydrophobic or it abosorbs moisture. It is brake fluid that really gets subjected to the heat underhood and inside the tranny/rear of engine block area heat. If you've never looked at it, pop the hood and it's the small reservoir next to the master cylinder. Open it up and remove the rubber bladder and see that the fluid is at correct level and it should be clear. If not it needs to be changed. Clutch fluid will accumulate clutch dust via the seals on the slave as well, therefore contaminating the fluid. I make it regular maintanance to change it every track session or oil change. IT IS THAT IMPORTANT!!
 
VENOMOUS1 said:
Because clutch fluid is brake fluid which is hydrophobic or it abosorbs moisture. It is brake fluid that really gets subjected to the heat underhood and inside the tranny/rear of engine block area heat. If you've never looked at it, pop the hood and it's the small reservoir next to the master cylinder. Open it up and remove the rubber bladder and see that the fluid is at correct level and it should be clear. If not it needs to be changed. Clutch fluid will accumulate clutch dust via the seals on the slave as well, therefore contaminating the fluid. I make it regular maintanance to change it every track session or oil change. IT IS THAT IMPORTANT!!
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This can't be stressed enough, I thought for sure my truck needed a clutch and all it needed was the clutch fluid changed. As Venomous1 said IT IS THAT IMPORTANT!! You will be amazed at what a difference it makes. Ido have it changed and bled every oil change now.
 
The mph seems a good bit lower than it should be for your mods, are you on the stock clutch? With a 1.75 60' time you should be well into the 12's, and yeah you don't really NEED 4.56's, I'm still running them
 
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