Recommended items to check at 29k miles

[Soapy00]

I have an 05' SRT-10 and i'm coming up on 29k miles...any recommended checks i should do when i take it to the dealer? My brakes are squeeling something fierce, they're the stock ones...yet everytime the dealer checks them they say there's still about 50% left...why would they squeel so bad? I also have a lot of play in the clutch which is making it difficult to get a decent roll into 1st gear at every stop. I'd say it's about 75% up before it catches...is that a sign the clutch is going bad? I notice when i get a decent start the rest of the shifts go great, if i get a bad start then all the shifts that follow are terrible...any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

[shorty]

Can't help you with the clutch as mine is the auto but the rotors sound to be glazed. In the old days we would take sand paper and rough them up and stop the squealing but sure there is a better way now. Someone will chime in that knows a lot more than I.

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

Factory pads make a little noise but are great pads braking wise. You can upgrade to EBC or others to quiet the noises.
Check fluid in clutch reservoir and bleed and try your shifts. Get new fluid through the lines and into the master as well

 

[10-1=9]

Can't help you with the clutch as mine is the auto but the rotors sound to be glazed. In the old days we would take sand paper and rough them up and stop the squealing but sure there is a better way now. Someone will chime in that knows a lot more than I.

They never improved on sanding the disc & pads. You can use a whizer wheel or die grinder if you want to save the elbow grease. You're looking for nondirectional finish. Don't breath in the dust or blow it off with compressed air. That's what they make brake clean. Sometimes the fix is only temporary.

 

[SRT2SLOW]

I recommend bringing your truck to atco on Tuesday night so we can diagnose the problem

 

[TheMoparConnection]

the spark plugs are due at 30k and it would be a good idea to change your ignition wires at that time (they're due every 5yrs). change your diff fluid. Flushing the Coolant and changing the radiator hoses would be a good idea (based off of age). I also change my brake fluid and clutch fluid every 2yrs, so if you haven't had that done, I would have that done.

as far as your Brakes... the factory pads are noisy. You can either live with it or do like others say and put some EBC's on.

 

[Soapy00]

Thanks Mopar! That's helpful, I'll get all that done.

 

[505'sFastestViper.]

I would rebuild it with forged internals


Dom
Undefeated on the Internet

 

[Arska2]

Rear axle / differential fluid change is due at 30K miles, as far as i remember !

 

[shorty]

Be sure to check you bank account. Prob a little lite at this time and will be getting lighter as the mods start.

 

[Soapy00]

So as far as the clutch goes, how far until yours catches from the floor? Do you have trouble rolling into first gear? I notice the truck lulls when I try to pull the clutch at the catch point, I usually have to give it a bit of extra gas to get into first...

 

[10-1=9]

I'm running 75W90 in my trans. Sometime when I down shift it's a little stiff. If I blip the throttle it goes right in.

 

[Chuck B]

I can ALMOST remember when my truck hit 30K miles...over 150K now. My truck has been the most trouble free vehicle I've owned to date. Let me pull out my maintenance records...

Brakes...by 30K I had already swapped in the EBC pads some 6K miles earlier but still didn't care for them either. Upgraded to Zeckhausen rotors and pads. Believe it or not I'm still on those same rotors and pads...both with plenty of life. Granted initial peddle feel is not as strong but add a bit more pressue at the peddle and it works as well as stock. No squealing and no dust and obviously over 100K miles of service life.

Clutch...like my Ducati's and Aprilia's the clutch fluid degrades very very rapidly in the SRT. I got into the habit of sucking out the fluid in the resvr at every oil change and replacing with new then I'd flush the system annually. Easy to do by yourself with a speed bleeder. I just recently had my slave finally go (142K)...replaced with viper slave.

Oil/filter replaced every 3K miles. Use only Mobile 1 0W-40 and viper filter
Trans and Diff fluids were replaced every 10K miles. Use only OEM fluids
Brake fluid flushed every 2yrs
Coolant flushed every 3yrs
Spark plugs every 30K

I'm still on original wires and coils but I have new OEM's ready to go on as well as new fuel injectors. Plan is to pull the intake later this summer and change everything at once. Will also rebuild the front suspension. Already purchased new upper A arms and new ball joints for lowers. New shocks on parts shelf ready to go but debating if I should go ahead and swap in new wheel bearing hubs. I'm still on originals and no signs of problems.

Your truck is barely broken in...enjoy!