Reliable, streetable, build ideas

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WA 2 FST

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Input welcome! I know these thoughts have been posted at various times on this board in the past, but I wanted to throw this out there again, as I consider more than the typical bolt-ons (which I have).

Seems to me with these things, you're either "all in", or you end up with a pretty unreliable truck, and then you're fixing things on a consistent basis. I'm too old for that.:p

Goals: 550rwhp/550rwtq minimum

Requirements: OEM reliability and driveability. Tuning should not be complicated, maintenance should be nothing more than routine (but I am anal about proper intervals, inspections of primary systems)... basically the truck should fire, run, and drive like a stocker unless the loud pedal is mashed.

Intended use: street only. may make a 1/4 mile pass a few times at some point, but no slicks or weight reduction.

Option 1: forged bottom end, leave stock heads/cam, and bolt on a Paxton with necessary fuel upgrades (in tank pumps + larger injectors). Upgrade clutch slave and upgrade clutch assembly.

Obviously this would be way more than 550rwhp, but I would keep the blower at sane levels b/c I do not want to be replacing driveline parts often at all.

Option 2: forged bottom end (research shows most of you guys do not think a stroker kit is the way to go), ported/aftermarket heads/cam, and set up a small nitrous shot for those times it might be deemed "necessary" (3rd/4th gear pulls). Upgrade clutch slave and upgrade clutch assembly.

On motor... 550rwhp seems about right, keeping max rpms near stock (I do not want to build a high-rpm motor for a heavy vehicle, so stump pulling TQ with a wide TQ curve to redline is important). Knowing my driving habits, the spray would hardly ever be used, but available when I'd want it.

None of this is cheap, I know.

Who would you recommend do the work (build motor), including install? I am near Dallas, TX. ART down in San Antonio has a good rep, I believe.

Any other options I am missing? Am I overbuilding for what I want...please consider RELIABILITY and DEPENDABILITY are top priorities.

Thx.
 
i've personally seen stink's result with his truck...

i'm sure some of it's classified...

but it's ported intake/heads, and "such"...

530rwhp, last i checked... through an auto:eek:
 
No need to forge the motor if your not going forced induction from what I've been told.
 
Yellow venom said:
Stryker heads and a cam will get ya where your after, contact RottenRonnie he has them on his truck!
Click to expand...

I waited too long to take the plunge on the Strykers... Ron was great help when I was initially researching options a year+ ago. Problem is there are no more strykers, right?
 
WA 2 FST said:
I waited too long to take the plunge on the Strykers... Ron was great help when I was initially researching options a year+ ago. Problem is there are no more strykers, right?
Click to expand...

supposed to be comin back.

Kevin @ Exotic Engine is supposed to be pickin up the Stryker head tourch:rock::rock:

& one of RottenRonnie's Gen III intakes or a Hogan's manifold:rock::rock:
 
viperhauler said:
hogans:eek:

2nd mortgage the house!!!
Click to expand...

true. ya can get bout 3 of Ronnie's intakes for the price of one Hogan.

but, dam they are purdy & work also:rock:

just one example
 

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WA 2 FST said:
I waited too long to take the plunge on the Strykers... Ron was great help when I was initially researching options a year+ ago. Problem is there are no more strykers, right?
Click to expand...

Thanks WA 2..

Kevin Singleton will breathe new life into the Strikers.

Ronnie
 
Last edited:
Hi JeffBoyette-

I am still using the o.e.m. exhaust manifolds. A set of long-tubes with the Strikers and there's (at least) another 20 and that's still through cats. The stock manifolds are being pushed pretty hard right now, even at our dismal altitude.

These engines really respond well to compression.
Because Strikers use a fast-burn chamber, you can give the engine a moderate boost in compression and still use pump gas; and not worry too much about detonation; then add a decent tune to go with the increase and... (another 30+)..

Intake manifold mods= 25 on the cars but I have been favoring velocity (TQ) on the truck engines so say 20 more, on average.

And, I haven't even changed the cam..

Not too hard at all..

Ronnie
 
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WA 2 FST said:
Input welcome! I know these thoughts have been posted at various times on this board in the past, but I wanted to throw this out there again, as I consider more than the typical bolt-ons (which I have).

Seems to me with these things, you're either "all in", or you end up with a pretty unreliable truck, and then you're fixing things on a consistent basis. I'm too old for that.:p

Goals: 550rwhp/550rwtq minimum

Requirements: OEM reliability and driveability. Tuning should not be complicated, maintenance should be nothing more than routine (but I am anal about proper intervals, inspections of primary systems)... basically the truck should fire, run, and drive like a stocker unless the loud pedal is mashed.

Intended use: street only. may make a 1/4 mile pass a few times at some point, but no slicks or weight reduction.

Option 1: forged bottom end, leave stock heads/cam, and bolt on a Paxton with necessary fuel upgrades (in tank pumps + larger injectors). Upgrade clutch slave and upgrade clutch assembly.

Obviously this would be way more than 550rwhp, but I would keep the blower at sane levels b/c I do not want to be replacing driveline parts often at all.

Option 2: forged bottom end (research shows most of you guys do not think a stroker kit is the way to go), ported/aftermarket heads/cam, and set up a small nitrous shot for those times it might be deemed "necessary" (3rd/4th gear pulls). Upgrade clutch slave and upgrade clutch assembly.

On motor... 550rwhp seems about right, keeping max rpms near stock (I do not want to build a high-rpm motor for a heavy vehicle, so stump pulling TQ with a wide TQ curve to redline is important). Knowing my driving habits, the spray would hardly ever be used, but available when I'd want it.

None of this is cheap, I know.

Who would you recommend do the work (build motor), including install? I am near Dallas, TX. ART down in San Antonio has a good rep, I believe.

Any other options I am missing? Am I overbuilding for what I want...please consider RELIABILITY and DEPENDABILITY are top priorities.

Thx.
Click to expand...


ART is just outside Austin... not far from you at all. I had them do a simple rods/piston build, and 10 lbs of boost from the Roe. Made a touch over 650rwhp, and was a blast on the street.

I vote for boost over NA. You simply get more power for less $$$.
 
Any vids of an RC at the track with striker heads, cams, full exhaust on motor? I'm curious what these trucks can do in the 1/4 on motor. Dyno numbers dont count. I see mid 11's easy with a good driver and someone not afraid to launch.
 
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Mid 500 isn't that hard to be honest... you can do that NA on a stock bottom end....if all you want is 550ish I would do a good port/polish job, from someone like Greg Good and maybe a ported intake.......if you want more or just have the cash you can't beat strikers!
 
Ron's formula is what i would consider if I was going to do the built bottom end + heads/cam + nitrous.

This should yield 550/570 w/ a cam profile designed for a broad TQ curve, and then if/when I sprayed a conservative shot... we're talking 650rwhp/725+rwtq. The problem is no Strykers are out there.

Love This Truck... what did you have as far as clutch/trans upgrades when you had the forged bottom + Roe?

Notice that I never mentioned _not_ running some sort of power adder... I love power adders, as you can tell by my sig. I also have run them all, so I feel like I have a good understanding of the pros/cons of each. Given that 550rwhp is plenty with the inherent traction limitation of these trucks (on street tires), is one reason I was leaning towards a good N/A build + nitrous. Nitrous _not_ being on all the time can be a good thing. :) It's basically "boost by gear" in a primitive way. Run N/A through 2nd and into 3rd, then hit the juice if the competition is close. This helps traction, saves driveline parts, and I'm not using it unless I need it which = more reliability.
 
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