Replaced my brake pads and rotors at 21k and the new ones suck!

[wyoramsrt-10]

I no certified in noting

I am just guessing and trying to remember stuff I have read on here :elefant: :elefant: :elefant:

 

[Kevan]

I forget , everyone here is a certified tech of 20+ years my bad

Ouch.

If I hadn't spent WEEKS under the truck and in the service manual, I might think that was a slam on me.

Again, don't take my word for it. Go put in a new set of pads in the front (IT'S ONLY ONE BOLT, PEOPLE!), and let me/us know if your pedal is as firm as it was with the old pads.
On my truck, it was down about 30%.

 

[wyoramsrt-10]

Sounds simple enough. I'll tell him to bleed it and see what that does.

Incase your mech doesn't know. There are two bleeding valves on the front calipers.

 

[Kevan]

In case your mech doesn't know. There are two bleeding valves on EACH of the front calipers.

Fixed.

 

[wyoramsrt-10]

Thanks. Thought it looked a little weird.

 

[bee0912]

That's why you have FNG's on your race crew: to clean your wheels!

How do i get that job and what does it pay!

 

[SnakeBite]

How do i get that job and what does it pay!

You GOT IT!!!

Doesn't pay shit though

 

[wyoramsrt-10]

How do i get that job and what does it pay!

I thought you were already doin that for Kevan

 

[FSTJACK]

I have used;

stock pads, worked ok, lots of dust.

EBC, lots more dust and no better stopping.

Performance Friction, very little dust and very good stopping.

I changed out front pads 3 times and did not have to bleed the brakes.
Changed out the rear pads twice and did not have to bleed them.
Any 05 needs a brake fluid change out, by this time.
It should be done every 2 years.
More often in rainy damp climates that masquerade as festering shit holes.
And that is not from the date it was sold, but from the date it was built.

Brake fluid is alcolol based and attracts moisture.
Moisture in older brake fluid = poor stopping. 2 year old brake fluid probably boils at less than 250 degrees F.
The dirty "wet" fluid also corrodes the brake system, shortning the service life of the master cylinder, calipers and brake lines.

As for Ceramic pads, I would not run them on anything.
Ceramic pads "KILL" more rotors that any other pad ever compounded.

Some of us have had enough experiance that we don't get out the manual and have to study it before doing a " simple" thing like changing out a set of pads or setting up a ring and pinion, or installing a new clutch with a scattershield, and dial indicating the true centerline of the crankshaft, to mate match with the bellhousing and transmission, using offset dowels.
Don't even bother to look this one up, you won't find it in the Dodge shop manual, but a lot of us do things like this regularly.
We have done most of this happy crap so many times, we know how this shit works without going to the book for everything.
And beacuse we have done it a lot, we have made a lot of mistakes and we know what doesn't work.

There are a few of us that have been in the industry for most of our lives and have done this for a living.
Listen to the guys with real experiance not somebody that read the book last night and became an instant expert.


If you don't you might as well cut a hole in the floor and drag your PF Fliers...............:rock:

 

[moparracing]

the only reason i changed from the stockers was mainly for the noise -- it was bad !!!
the centrics gave good stopping power & no dust or noise..... i'm noticing quite a reduction in wet braking, though........

 

[BigRed460]

Well said jack... I have changed pads w/o bleeding many times...

 

[Halligan]

Call me crazy, but how long have you had the brakes? Did you seat the brakes properly?

I bought a set of the posi quiets. . . no, they're no where near as touchy as the stock ones, but they will still stop on a dime. I thought they were awful at first, but once I received the direction on how to properly break them in, it was only a matter of time before I received better braking power.

 

[Black1]

I don't think Brembo did ours. They do handle the other SRT models though from how I understand it.

I believe TRW produced the brakes on our trucks.

 

[Kevan]

Some of us have had enough experiance that we don't get out the manual and have to study it before doing a " simple" thing like changing out a set of pads or setting up a ring and pinion, or installing a new clutch with a scattershield, and dial indicating the true centerline of the crankshaft, to mate match with the bellhousing and transmission, using offset dowels.
Don't even bother to look this one up you won't find it in the Dodge shop manual, but a lot of us do things like this regularly.
We have done most of this happy crap so many times, we know how this shit works without going to the book for everything.
And beacuse we have done it a lot, we have made a lot of mistakes and we know what doesn't work.

There are a few of us that have been in the industry for most of our lives and have done this for a living.
Listen to the guys with real experiance not somebody that read the book last night and became an instant expert.

Wow.
Hint taken.

 

[newmexicoviper]

Anytime you loose dust , unfortunatly you are gonna loose a bit of braking ability.

I would use nothing but performance friction pads , used them for years, and braking is outstanding.

but to your problem, take some 320 or 400 grit sandpaper, lightly sand the rotors both sides, then scuff off the pads to get the initial glaze off, then try reseating them, that will get you about as good as it gets.

Yep what he said.

 

[bee0912]

I thought you were already doin that for Kevan

No i sat there and watched at 3AM then he had a toothbrush out detailing the lug nuts

 

[ZCx]

yep, TRW for our brake system. Got EBC pads & rotors on all 4 corners. after break in better than stock & next to no dust.
ZCx

 

[SilvrSRT10]

Also, when pressing the caliper piston back into the caliper. Press on the outer rim. The part that presses on the back of the brake pad.
Not the center of the piston (inside the cup). It's too easy to break that area of the piston. It's made of a hard plastic.

No, I didn't just read this in a manual. I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night.

 

[SnakeBite]

Call me crazy, but how long have you had the brakes? Did you seat the brakes properly?

I bought a set of the posi quiets. . . no, they're no where near as touchy as the stock ones, but they will still stop on a dime. I thought they were awful at first, but once I received the direction on how to properly break them in, it was only a matter of time before I received better braking power.

I read the seating process on their site before having them installed, confirmed it was done when I picked it up, and did it again the next day when I realized the performance was no where what it was originally, but it didn't make any difference. I've had the new pads & rotors for about 3k miles.

In regards to Fastjack's comments about fluid change, I'm not opposed, but I don't think that's the problem just because the change in performance occured immediately after changing pads & rotors, not over any extended length of time. I will have them bled as sugjested though and see if that helps.

I appreciate everyones help here, you guys are way cool, Thanks!

Rob

 

[FATJACK]

No worries Kevan, we all still love you and appreciate your great input.

Any decrease in stopping power is unacceptable, one of the best attributes of this truck are the brakes. When mine is ready I will go to the friendly local
Mopar parts counter.