replacing U-Joints question

[Troy's QC SRT]

I need to replace mine (all of them) but I want to know the best way to go about doing it. Can I just press them out with a clamp and press in the new ones with the clamp or how do I need to do it? Also which ujoints should I get? Autozone has like 3 options....one that is greaseable and two that isn't....does anyone have a link that I can just buy them from or know which ones I should go with? I'm trying to get them changed out while my truck is down!

 

[Slitherbeast]

I believe the driveshaft is aluminum. Be careful! Or just take it to a shop and have them all changed to greaseable ones and get the assembly balanced ....just my opinion

 

[BLWNSRT]

I use a balljoint c-clamp to press them in and out and sometimes use of a hammer if needed to help. I prefer using the brute force heavy duty non greasable ujoints I destroyed a set of greasable ones on my 85 and had to replace the whole driveshaft.

 

[HaroldD]

I use an OTC 7249 to press them out. This method supports the yoke well.

Greasable or non? Well, I tend toward greasable for off-road where immersion is common - thought is that you could flush contaminants out with fresh grease. I use sealed (Spicer Life series) for onroad with the thought that the better seals these have will keep the bad stuff out and the good stuff in.

Good discussion here:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-shaft/index4.html

If you go greasable, most folks that pay attention will install the zerk part of the cross so it is in torsional compression for forward motion, not in tension.

 

[Troy's QC SRT]

Ok that's what I want to hear....what others out there are using. Obviously the 10 does not and never will go off roading but iv'e heard that greaseable u-joints were weaker so I was leaning towards solid

 

[HaroldD]

Two thngs about perceived strength differences:

1. I think it was more true in the past than with current premium joints.

2. I think it's also more true when installed with the zerk hole in torsional tension.

Another thing I forgot to mention - the greasables generally make a little bit of a mess as they force the excess grease out.

Ok that's what I want to hear....what others out there are using. Obviously the 10 does not and never will go off roading but iv'e heard that greaseable u-joints were weaker so I was leaning towards solid

 

[HaroldD]

Here's a good link that discusses U-joints in general
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/summer2008/ujoints.htm

And some more about Spicer Life series...

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PDFs/Spicer_driveshaft_u-joints_brochure.pdf

 

[Troy's QC SRT]

Thanks for the info a lot &arold....after reading I want to go with spicer's life series. Non-relubeable u-joints! Do you have a part# for them or where to order? Around how much am I looking at to replace them and do I reuse my factory c-clips when I press these in? I need to order them asap!

 

[yellowfever#154]

Occasionally the joints are held in with plastic that was melted and formed into a groove around the joint. Im not sure if ours are like this or not, but if they are they can be a real beatch to take apart without the proper tools or a press.

 

[HaroldD]

Sorry not to get back sooner...

5-801x is the 1410 series joint our trucks use. I bought a batch a while back, but don't remember where...

They come with new clips. Also have a little steel wool and a file to touch up any burrs on the yokes.

Google came up with
http://www.northerndrivetrain.com/pr...PI-5-801X.html
and lots more...

Thanks for the info a lot &arold....after reading I want to go with spicer's life series. Non-relubeable u-joints! Do you have a part# for them or where to order? Around how much am I looking at to replace them and do I reuse my factory c-clips when I press these in? I need to order them asap!

 

[HaroldD]

Thankfully not used on ours - just "old fashioned" c-clips on the ends of the caps.:congrats: But you are absolutely right about the biotch part!:dontknow:

Occasionally the joints are held in with plastic that was melted and formed into a groove around the joint. Im not sure if ours are like this or not, but if they are they can be a real beatch to take apart without the proper tools or a press.

 

[Troy's QC SRT]

Thanks alot Harold....I just ordered the U-joints in the link you posted....should have them in a few days!

 

[yellowfever#154]

Thankfully not used on ours - just "old fashioned" c-clips on the ends of the caps.:congrats: But you are absolutely right about the biotch part!:dontknow:

Good deal, thanks I learnt something new today.