Hmm... what could I say to the tranny shop to get them to cover labour for a new flywheel? It's under warrenty...???
Depends on the shop...but at 2000 miles you are way beyond breakend....I would put the pressure on..
Hmm... what could I say to the tranny shop to get them to cover labour for a new flywheel? It's under warrenty...???
I should add that when the truck warms up it does it worse. When it's been sitting over night it doesn't do it nearly as bad
It is odd for a factory clutch disc to chatter that bad. I've run the puck style clutches that WILL chatter but not a full face disc? I am willing to bet they didn't resurface/replace the flywheel as well.
I do have an idea for you to try and see if it helps. Too easy of driving like mentioned will actually put a glaze on the flywheel and clutch face. This glazing prevents the materials in the clutch to grab firmly to the flywheel and like some new guy mentioned ( maybe wheelhop) it is similar. Basically instead of the clutch gripping immediately, it grips, slips, grips, slips,etc., etc. till it finally gets a good bite. Just like tires and wheelhop!!:burnout:
What I want you to try ( it will not hurt your truck) is to, while at a stop, rev the engine to about 4000RPM and dump the clutch while in 4th gear. Just when it's about to stall, clutch in. Repeat this 3 times and take for a drive and see how it does. By heating and letting the clutch try to bite, it can remove alot of the glazing and work properly. I've done this countless times but more on race clutches that are street driven and 6 puck style like a dumptruck clutch.:rock:
I would NOT do that on an Organic Lining Clutch Disc. You will burn the surface, this is what glazing is. A Race Sintered Iron or Ceramic Clutch is a completely differant animal.
The Stock Lining is NOT Sintered Iron or Ceramic.