Resurfacing flywheel?

These flywheels are not to be resurfaced. I would rec to replace, especially since they are fairly cheap.
 
It is odd for a factory clutch disc to chatter that bad. I've run the puck style clutches that WILL chatter but not a full face disc? I am willing to bet they didn't resurface/replace the flywheel as well.

I do have an idea for you to try and see if it helps. Too easy of driving like mentioned will actually put a glaze on the flywheel and clutch face. This glazing prevents the materials in the clutch to grab firmly to the flywheel and like some new guy mentioned ( maybe wheelhop) it is similar. Basically instead of the clutch gripping immediately, it grips, slips, grips, slips,etc., etc. till it finally gets a good bite. Just like tires and wheelhop!!;):burnout:

What I want you to try ( it will not hurt your truck) is to, while at a stop, rev the engine to about 4000RPM and dump the clutch while in 4th gear. Just when it's about to stall, clutch in. Repeat this 3 times and take for a drive and see how it does. By heating and letting the clutch try to bite, it can remove alot of the glazing and work properly. I've done this countless times but more on race clutches that are street driven and 6 puck style like a dumptruck clutch.:rock:
 
It is odd for a factory clutch disc to chatter that bad. I've run the puck style clutches that WILL chatter but not a full face disc? I am willing to bet they didn't resurface/replace the flywheel as well.

I do have an idea for you to try and see if it helps. Too easy of driving like mentioned will actually put a glaze on the flywheel and clutch face. This glazing prevents the materials in the clutch to grab firmly to the flywheel and like some new guy mentioned ( maybe wheelhop) it is similar. Basically instead of the clutch gripping immediately, it grips, slips, grips, slips,etc., etc. till it finally gets a good bite. Just like tires and wheelhop!!;):burnout:

What I want you to try ( it will not hurt your truck) is to, while at a stop, rev the engine to about 4000RPM and dump the clutch while in 4th gear. Just when it's about to stall, clutch in. Repeat this 3 times and take for a drive and see how it does. By heating and letting the clutch try to bite, it can remove alot of the glazing and work properly. I've done this countless times but more on race clutches that are street driven and 6 puck style like a dumptruck clutch.:rock:

Oh baby... sounds harmful especially to a OEM clutch. But the 'grip slip' thing is exactly what it feels like.

But you mean actually dump the clutch... like rev up to 4000 and engage the clutch really fast? That sounds scary!

Not to go against you, i appreciate your input/help but can anyone else agree to this? Worth a shot if it won't hurt nothing..
 
Hey bud, non offense taken. I just happen to have run many manual trannys in my time and many, many aftermarket clutches that are made to grip:burnout:;) With these ceramic clutches and Kevlar, and all the exotic materials out there that grip like a MOFO, they are made to do just that and driving (NORMALLY)will glaze them fast. To release (burn off) this glaze the guys, including myself have learned from pros to put in a high gear, rev to about 4-5000 and dump the clutch! The truck will move believe it or not so be ready. It won't take off at all like 1st or 2nd gear obviously but it will move a few feet. After the 1st try you will notice the difference, but I recommend about 3-4 dumps like this back to back. It WILL NOT HARM ANYTHING other than a .0001 or so off your clutch disc.;)

Another test prior to this to check air in the lines and a non-complete disengagement of the clutch disc is to put in 1st, clutch in and rev to 5-5500 pretty fast. ALWAYS KEEP CLUTCH TO FLOOR!!!! If your truck lurches forward ANY, your clutch is not disengaging or engaging correctly. Most likely due to air in the lines or old fluid. Keep the fluid clear as possible. BLACK IS NO GOOD!!!
 
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I would NOT do that on an Organic Lining Clutch Disc. You will burn the surface, this is what glazing is. A Race Sintered Iron or Ceramic Clutch is a completely differant animal.
The Stock Lining is NOT Sintered Iron or Ceramic.
 
I would NOT do that on an Organic Lining Clutch Disc. You will burn the surface, this is what glazing is. A Race Sintered Iron or Ceramic Clutch is a completely differant animal.
The Stock Lining is NOT Sintered Iron or Ceramic.

You correct in the material in the clutches being totally different and glad someone with knowledge chimed in. Sounds as if he needs the advice. Ok I did say prior to see if he has any hydraulic issues to try the clutch in rev test. IF it is chattering from having a flywheel with hotspots and the disc already glazed ( as it sounds like, correct?) that he could do this and try and burn some off? Yes it could also GLAZE it MORE, but at this point if it is the disc/flywheel then it couldn't hurt and will not hurt anything else, correct?:dontknow:

Incorrect break-in procedure could've also glazed this clutch whether it be dumping the cltutch before breaking in or slipping the clutch like granny while driving normal.
 
I've always wondered about the guys with exotic material clutches that tend to mate together over time with the flywheel, pressure plate especially in humid areas. I've had many do this even in Central Texas climate! We started putting a stick on the clutch pedal to keep it disengaged while not being used. Learned from ole tractor geezers!! Over winter our cars as well as their tractors, being similar lined clutches, would basically weld together due to electrolosis or simple rusting and fusing of the clutch and mating surfaces. I know not many on here have clutches this bad ass, but many do and rarely drive them:dontknow:
Just wondered as this reminded me of those days and the recent Ceramic Composite clutch I recently installed in the Vette. It's like a light switch, on or off. It will rip the car in half if you try to slip it, now that's clutch chatter.;)
 

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