rods and pistons

moparviper

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I was thinking of putting on a pro charger this winter and want to be between 700 900 horsepower. But idk how much our factory rods and pistons can handle. If they cant handle that can anyone recomend some that will work for thoes horsepower numbers? And also recomend anything else that i should look at changing? Thanks in advance!
 
That's a lot of power to ask of the stock pistons and rods
 
I've always heard around 600hp is the max we should push our stock motors. For your numbers, you'll need to reinforce your rear end and XMSN as well. Our vendors would be the best to address your bottom end parts questions.
 
I figured i could do this on a stock motor. Its good t hear from other people though. I hope someone can point me in the direction of rods and pistons that can handle those numbers.
 
Check out Roe Racing ,they have a packaged up deal that is good for 1000 hp ;)Diamond pistons and cali rods
 
might want to ask Sean if the main bearins are the "Gen IV" style
 
For those levels you need at least this:
K1 rods or better
Custom made pistons
ATI balancer with a crank that has been cut for double keys
Good timing chain
Ported and polished heads
Custom grind cam with springs that match

Mmmmm, what else?
 
a good balance job????

check & work the crank???

hone the holes with torque plate???
 
got it:rock::D

or an osculation overthruster could work:rock::burnout::D
 

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I was thinking of putting on a pro charger this winter and want to be between 700 900 horsepower. But idk how much our factory rods and pistons can handle. If they cant handle that can anyone recomend some that will work for thoes horsepower numbers? And also recomend anything else that i should look at changing? Thanks in advance!

Your rod needs to bend a bit at those power levels.
However there is a BIG difference between 7 and 900 HP so use the K1s if you are closer to the lower number. And, you don't have to cut the factory crank with them.
Use a good H-Beam ($2400 or so) for the higher (900) number, especially in a heavy truck.
Main caps might not be a bad idea.
Gen IV bearings and block oiling mods.
Improve your heads; back-cut valves, bowl work, springs, retainers, stiffer pushrods.
As small an overbore as you can get away with to avoid over-heating.
Blower cam.
 
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Your rod needs to bend a bit at those power levels.
However there is a BIG difference between 7 and 900 HP so use the K1s if you are closer to the lower number. And, you don't have to cut the factory crank with them.
Use a good H-Beam ($2400 or so) for the higher (900) number, especially in a heavy truck.
Main caps might not be a bad idea.
Gen IV bearings and block oiling mods.
Improve your heads.
As small an overbore as you can get away with.
Blower cam.

Ronnie, aren't the K1 Rods a H-Beam Design? What other brand would you suggest?
 
Ronnie, aren't the K1 Rods a H-Beam Design? What other brand would you suggest?

I still like the Carrillos and yes the K1s are also an H-Beam design. There are I-Beams. H-Beams, X-Beams, Laser beams, etc.

The Carrillos are a GOOD H-Beam and priced accordingly. Callies is NOT slang for Carrillos. 2 totally different products !

I have Olivers for my own engine which are also good. On par with the Carrillos, I'd say.

The K1s ARE a step up from the stock, cracked powder rod. The same rods used in the 6.1 Hemis.

The K1s are made in China (largest steel manufacturers in the world), and are good for most "normal" modified power levels and higher than normal r.p.m. levels.

Lots of talk about rods and "power levels" but just as important is their ability to endure high r.p.m. which is where they have to be strong enough to live through the yank back from T.D.C. when the engine is really buzzing.

Ronnie
 
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