Roe SC or ?

HV SRT

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I'm thinking of getting a Roe SC. Should I upgrade the rods &pistons ? The truck will be drag raced 15 to20 times a year & road raced 2 to5 times a year. I put 15000 miles on it this year. Another option is to port the heads , cam ,flash , ect. I do have emissions testing . Would appreciate your opinoins.
 
From what I have read the stock internals are "good" to about 700 HP. Hell if ya can swing it can't hurt.
 
Gaboon said:
From what I have read the stock internals are "good" to about 700 HP. Hell if ya can swing it can't hurt.
Pistons and Rods after that, I can vouch for that. :bebored:

My forged pistons saved my engine most likely. Didn't upgrade my rods at the time was my mistake.

My suggestion would be to do it all at once with the engine pulled, instead of going back later and tearing down the truck again for the install. If you don't quite have all of the money, save up and do it all at one time. Cheaper in the long run. (heads, cam, internals)

emission comment I don't know what you are asking there? If you remove your cats you will have trouble with emissions. Somebody else will have to chime in on this one.
 
Bone said:
Pistons and Rods after that, I can vouch for that. :bebored:

My forged pistons saved my engine most likely. Didn't upgrade my rods at the time was my mistake.

My suggestion would be to do it all at once with the engine pulled, instead of going back later and tearing down the truck again for the install. If you don't quite have all of the money, save up and do it all at one time. Cheaper in the long run. (heads, cam, internals)

emission comment I don't know what you are asking there? If you remove your cats you will have trouble with emissions. Somebody else will have to chime in on this one.
I want to know if I cam the motor will it still pass. I will put the stock mids with cats back on for testing. Thanks
 
HV SRT said:
I want to know if I cam the motor will it still pass. I will put the stock mids with cats back on for testing. Thanks
That's a wide open question. No way to say for sure.
 
TNVIPER said:
Do the Roe and enjoy.....if ya want more power beef up the bottom end and you can up the boost..:rock:
Do you know how much boost I can go? How much power can the rearend handle?
 
HV SRT said:
Do you know how much boost I can go? How much power can the rearend handle?

The Roe only puts out about 5.6 lbs of boost....this is enough (with the right combo of mods...exhaust, tuning, etc) to put 600+ HP to the rear wheels.....Sean Roe told me if I beefed up the engine...forged pistons, rods....the boost could be safely increased and along with tuning I could see 700+ at the rear wheels..without any trans or rear end mods.....though this would be taking the drive train to the limit..
 
If OR has about the same standards as CA a Roe will not pass emmissions testings. It has not been through testing and Roe has no plans to do so.

A Paxton would be a better choice in your situation.
 
FSTJACK said:
If OR has about the same standards as CA a Roe will not pass emmissions testings. It has not been through testing and Roe has no plans to do so.

A Paxton would be a better choice in your situation.
Thanks. Iwill look into the Paxton.
 
FSTJACK said:
If OR has about the same standards as CA a Roe will not pass emmissions testings. It has not been through testing and Roe has no plans to do so.

A Paxton would be a better choice in your situation.

Did Paxton actually get cert?....I read recently that they had applied but had not actually received CA cert..:dontknow:
 
I'm using the paxton along with high flow cats and bolt on mods, I passes ill emmisions with flying colors. im making 704 hp and 698 tq and still on the stock clutch. as for tunning im using the DC blower flash and the split second soft wear to fine tune the fuel.
 
Bone said:
Pistons and Rods after that, I can vouch for that. :bebored:

My forged pistons saved my engine most likely. Didn't upgrade my rods at the time was my mistake.

My suggestion would be to do it all at once with the engine pulled, instead of going back later and tearing down the truck again for the install. If you don't quite have all of the money, save up and do it all at one time. Cheaper in the long run. (heads, cam, internals)

emission comment I don't know what you are asking there? If you remove your cats you will have trouble with emissions. Somebody else will have to chime in on this one.

Experience is the best and some times the most expensive way to learn!!
 
I would recommend the Roe and as Bone says, go with forged rods and pistons if you can from the start. The comment of "under 700" is direct from Sean Roe. He believes that the engine will live a long life at 5.6 lbs of boost on stock internals. But Bone is correct, if you tear down the engine go with the forged rods and pistons.

As for emissions, there is passing testing and then there is passing emissions...I have the Roe and a full cat delete...in Illinois the emission check consists of a connection to your OBD II port, and if it is not throwing an emissions code you pass. There are lots of ways to be sure that the OBD does not throw a code. There are risks and ethical issues. Lots of people go with high flow cats in place of the OEM models. Some use spacers between the rear sensors and the exhaust flow, some use simulators...some use the least expensive method of strapping the rear 02 sensors to the frame in clean air...

My plan is to see if the truck passes the OBD II test...if it fails for some reason, I will clamp in two high flow cats for the test and pull them after.

So there are lots of emissions issues...and lots of ways to handle them. We even have some counties in Illinois that do not require emissions testing...go figure...and my wife is interested in buying some land to create a bird sanctuary...sooooo, if I can find land in the right county and have a mail box there....hummmmmm...

But go with the Roe! Make sure the VEC III boxes are both placed inside the cab where no water can get to them. If you are going to road race, you should be sure that you have a sump system for your meth injection that has ample capacity (maybe two or three gallons), and that it has baffles that assure that when you are in a turn your meth supply will not be sloshed away from the pick-up point! Hitting the Roe hard without meth can be unhealthy!
 
i would stray to say the roe at 5 1/2 lbs. of boost on stock internals will be more than what you need, traction will be your issue
 
Prof said:
I would recommend the Roe and as Bone says, go with forged rods and pistons if you can from the start. The comment of "under 700" is direct from Sean Roe. He believes that the engine will live a long life at 5.6 lbs of boost on stock internals. But Bone is correct, if you tear down the engine go with the forged rods and pistons.

As for emissions, there is passing testing and then there is passing emissions...I have the Roe and a full cat delete...in Illinois the emission check consists of a connection to your OBD II port, and if it is not throwing an emissions code you pass. There are lots of ways to be sure that the OBD does not throw a code. There are risks and ethical issues. Lots of people go with high flow cats in place of the OEM models. Some use spacers between the rear sensors and the exhaust flow, some use simulators...some use the least expensive method of strapping the rear 02 sensors to the frame in clean air...

My plan is to see if the truck passes the OBD II test...if it fails for some reason, I will clamp in two high flow cats for the test and pull them after.

So there are lots of emissions issues...and lots of ways to handle them. We even have some counties in Illinois that do not require emissions testing...go figure...and my wife is interested in buying some land to create a bird sanctuary...sooooo, if I can find land in the right county and have a mail box there....hummmmmm...

But go with the Roe! Make sure the VEC III boxes are both placed inside the cab where no water can get to them. If you are going to road race, you should be sure that you have a sump system for your meth injection that has ample capacity (maybe two or three gallons), and that it has baffles that assure that when you are in a turn your meth supply will not be sloshed away from the pick-up point! Hitting the Roe hard without meth can be unhealthy!
Thanks for the info. I'm going with Roe and will get a 2.5 gallon tank for the meth. I had the same thoughts on passing the emissions . I knew you guys would help me out. This site is the best.:rock: :rock: :rock:
 
If ya gonna roadrace the roe isnt the way to go, way too much low end power.
A guy in Texas I jsut sold a rear axle to , built the bottom end, ported heads, with tune , cam and all and made 696rwhp.

the Paxton is more linear on power and comes across the entire band, much more managable.
plus with heads, cam and built bottom end you can easily acheive 7-800rwhp and be very safe, and with out the bandaid of meth.

If you search Not a Hemi also has a group buy on stryker heads, top of the line heads for the $.

and go with an AEM standalone unit, ten times better than a $2 split second box, or a vec, much better drivablity, and tunability, plus revtech in arizona has developed a piggy back harness that works awesome with the AEM.

Just .02 worth from an ol road racer bro:D
 
this is true the paxton doesent need the meth and doesent need a vecIII as well figure a vec is what 800 and up and the meth is another couple of hundred. you have to figure it will be unhealthy for the engine if the meth injection pump should fail so might your engine. try not to add more systems then you need remember the K.I.S.S rule. the 2 dollar split sec box works just fine for everyday driving and the occasional track day.
 
Emissions....
You'll pass the sniff test with better numbers than stock because all the cylinders are getting equal air vs the stock intake which runs the rear cylinders richer.
Wait about a week and the SC kit will be a lower price and faster install.
We're about to couple it with the SCT flash programmer instead of the VEC.
You won't have the ability in the short term to add the meth, but it isn't a necessity anyway. It just allows you to run more advance and shows up well as a MPH increase when drag racing. It's not needed to reduce temperatures since we're running cool anyway (big low revving blower doesn't heat up like the little blower).
I don't suggest you change the cam. The stock cam seems to work real well vs the Mopar cam. I've hit 620RWHP with a stock cam and engine on 5 psi (with headers and exhaust), but seen guys with heads and the Mopar cam only make 696 RWHP at 8 psi. Seems like just bolting on the blower is the best way to go (HP / dollar).
 

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