Shipping out brake line kits

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

Tony- Is it possible to just purchase a rear-only kit?

Also, do you have any pics of it installed on a truck w/o Wildwood brakes?
Maybe something with some nice TRW calipers.

No I dont have any pics fo it on a stocker, that is why Justin is getting a kit.

Now why would want just the rear Kevin:dontknow: I know you just had your own custom junction block made So I know your gonna need the lines, that just doesnt make any sense Maybe you can explain?

 

[Kevan]

No I dont have any pics fo it on a stocker, that is why Justin is getting a kit.

Now why would want just the rear Kevin:dontknow: I know you just had your own custom junction block made So I know your gonna need the lines, that just doesnt make any sense Maybe you can explain?

My block won't accept the right-angle connections you have on the front. It's designed to use the stock connections, as well as entering and leaving at the same points.

So, the fronts from this kit won't work, but the rears probably will.

I'll post more when I get back from this frozen land.

 

[ZCx]

stainless steel rules. got more line now, from the frame to axle, than what i need. a tad longer? 2" lower in assend.
looks like a nice kit

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

My block won't accept the right-angle connections you have on the front. It's designed to use the stock connections, as well as entering and leaving at the same points.

So, the fronts from this kit won't work, but the rears probably will.

I'll post more when I get back from this frozen land.

Thats weird, because th front drivers side doesnt even connect to the junction block?:dontknow: It connects to the line from the ABS module.

So I dont see how your junction block is going to affect this, especially if it accepts the factory threads, especially the oddball 11x1mm. so you never have told me of any reason to change the junction block? do you have a reason?

Just remember one thing Kevin , I know that you want something to work with the hemi trucks, but remember for this reason , you only have one truck.

I have no problem building the hemi fellas a kit at all, but to me safety comes first.

 

[eddie102870]

awesome leg work bro. cant wait till these get the final approval from everyone. looks great.

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

Thanks friend, tel Sailor Rooster is wide open tonight!LOLOLOL

 

[HOT RAM]

They want expand like a stock rubber line adn will hold tons more pressure, you get a firmer pedal , and under extreme conditions, or continous braking it will take the brakes alot longer to break down and loose the pedal.

best example is a road course, take the stock lines, and after continous hard braking the lines will get hot and expand and your pedal will slowly start getting closer and closer to the floor.

With the braided lines they have a much higher bursting pressure , so the brakes would not start to fade near as quick.

Just what I thought,but I wanted to be sure.Thanks ! May be in the market for a set.Depends on price.

 

[Kevan]

Thats weird, because th front drivers side doesnt even connect to the junction block?:dontknow: It connects to the line from the ABS module.

So I dont see how your junction block is going to affect this, especially if it accepts the factory threads, especially the oddball 11x1mm. so you never have told me of any reason to change the junction block? do you have a reason?

Just remember one thing Kevin , I know that you want something to work with the hemi trucks, but remember for this reason , you only have one truck.

I have no problem building the hemi fellas a kit at all, but to me safety comes first.

I'm with ya 10000% on the safety part, and thus the reason I first started with the junction block.
It's 1/4" thick 6061 T-6 aluminum around all ports, giving it a bursting pressure of about 12 kabillion PSI (that's not a real number folks, but you get the idea). The lines will fail well before my junction block does.

With that said, the elbows in the front SS lines would then be the weakest point in the brake chain.

Reason #2: WHEN (not if), the brake lines need to be replaced, it will be 1000x easier for Goodridge to get a customer (or you) a 24" piece with a banjo on one end and a XXmm on the other; as opposed to a banjo on one end and a custom made 90º elbow on the other end.
Customer will only have to wait a couple of days for shipping of the line. They won't have to wait for the line to be custom built.

Also, this gives owners the opportunity to use lines from other manufacturers, if the need arises.

Reason #3: Few brake shops work with AN fittings. NPT and Metric are the standards. Any AN-type fittings would require a pro shop or a special order/custom built line.

On the original, the 'Popeye Pipe' is the 90º bend for the brake line on the drivers side.
With my junction block the 90º turn is built-in (just like the original, but cleaner), and thus the line needs to have a straight Metric connection.

I didn't design the junction block to work with the Hemi trucks. It just so happens that it would.

The last part of the puzzle for me is what type of 'connection' is needed inside the junction block ports. I tried to buy a junction block assy. from Dodge, but there's not even a part number for it!!!
Looks like mine will have to come apart and spend a day at the machine shop....unless anyone has one laying around?


I know that I can get the junction blocks made for only a few bucks more than whatever you're paying for the AN adapter and the angled bracket. It wouldn't be a dealer breaker.
I'm going to talk to the machine shop about adding a Viper logo (standard and/or Sneaky Pete) to the exposed face of the block. We could even do a "VTCOA" on it.
I'm sure JMB could do a wicked power coat on them for only a few duckets more, if colors are desired.

I ***LOVE*** the rear portion. I can't wait to see it on a truck with the TRW calipers. I'm *so* ready for that.


If you want to talk about this in person instead of in public, you're welcome to call.
I only ask that you give me a few hours to get some zzz's. I just got back from 745 miles in 11 hours with 0 tickets. I'm a little wiped out.

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

I'm with ya 10000% on the safety part, and thus the reason I first started with the junction block.
It's 1/4" thick 6061 T-6 aluminum around all ports, giving it a bursting pressure of about 12 kabillion PSI (that's not a real number folks, but you get the idea). The lines will fail well before my junction block does.

With that said, the elbows in the front SS lines would then be the weakest point in the brake chain.

Reason #2: WHEN (not if), the brake lines need to be replaced, it will be 1000x easier for Goodridge to get a customer (or you) a 24" piece with a banjo on one end and a XXmm on the other; as opposed to a banjo on one end and a custom made 90º elbow on the other end.
Customer will only have to wait a couple of days for shipping of the line. They won't have to wait for the line to be custom built.

Also, this gives owners the opportunity to use lines from other manufacturers, if the need arises.

Reason #3: Few brake shops work with AN fittings. NPT and Metric are the standards. Any AN-type fittings would require a pro shop or a special order/custom built line.

On the original, the 'Popeye Pipe' is the 90º bend for the brake line on the drivers side.
With my junction block the 90º turn is built-in (just like the original, but cleaner), and thus the line needs to have a straight Metric connection.

I didn't design the junction block to work with the Hemi trucks. It just so happens that it would.

The last part of the puzzle for me is what type of 'connection' is needed inside the junction block ports. I tried to buy a junction block assy. from Dodge, but there's not even a part number for it!!!
Looks like mine will have to come apart and spend a day at the machine shop....unless anyone has one laying around?


I know that I can get the junction blocks made for only a few bucks more than whatever you're paying for the AN adapter and the angled bracket. It wouldn't be a dealer breaker.
I'm going to talk to the machine shop about adding a Viper logo (standard and/or Sneaky Pete) to the exposed face of the block. We could even do a "VTCOA" on it.
I'm sure JMB could do a wicked power coat on them for only a few duckets more, if colors are desired.

I ***LOVE*** the rear portion. I can't wait to see it on a truck with the TRW calipers. I'm *so* ready for that.


If you want to talk about this in person instead of in public, you're welcome to call.
I only ask that you give me a few hours to get some zzz's. I just got back from 745 miles in 11 hours with 0 tickets. I'm a little wiped out.

well your wrong again, the junction block cannnot even be seen, let alone with a viper logo, it sets behind th wheel well.


all brake line shops carry a 90 degree fitting, it itself is not a custom peice of work, they all carry them

and I cant wait to here what your machine shop says about the 11x 1mm thread they wil have to cut

and sorry once again, all shops now use an fittings, the npt and metric fittings are slowly being fazed out, any shop including even NAPA carries an fittings

and I am paying $2.50 for the adapter

sooo your gonna have a new junction block made, have a viper logo engraved into it, then have it powder coated, and designed all for $2.50, all to be installed on the truck behind the fender well so it can never be seen?

I appreciate all the info Kevin, but to me its a waste of money, and that I dont want to pass on to the fellas, if they want one designed then they can come to you.

 

[Kevan]

well your wrong again, the junction block cannnot even be seen, let alone with a viper logo, it sets behind th wheel well.

The front half of the junction block *CAN* be seen from the street:

As an aside: the oil filter is VERY hidden, yet folks still buy the one with the Viper logo on it.

all brake line shops carry a 90 degree fitting, it itself is not a custom peice of work, they all carry them

They may carry the FITTING but I seriously doubt they carry the LINE with the 90º fitting already on it.
That will probably have to be ordered from Goodridge (or some other manuf.).

and I cant wait to here what your machine shop says about the 11x 1mm thread they wil have to cut

The word from the machine shop was, "No problem." They will even do custom threads.

and sorry once again, all shops now use an fittings, the npt and metric fittings are slowly being fazed out, any shop including even NAPA carries an fittings

I've only ever seen AN fittings at pro and speed shops (like Jegs, Summit, etc.).
I'll check my local NAPA for lines with -3AN fittings.

That's great that they're being phased out, but on my truck they're Metric.

and I am paying $2.50 for the adapter

sooo your gonna have a new junction block made, have a viper logo engraved into it, then have it powder coated, and designed all for $2.50, all to be installed on the truck behind the fender well so it can never be seen?

I never said "same price". I said "a few bucks more".
Powder coating would be a few dollars on top of that. It's just an option for folks to consider. We all know that JMB's powder coating is top notch, so...

Even if the new junction blocks are $25 ea., it's worth it for the strength and durability over the 3/16" tubing that's doing the 90º bend. Not to mention ease of installation and future maintenance or replacement.
Tack on the safety factor and you've got peace of mind when it comes to the brake line system, top to bottom.

I appreciate all the info Kev[a]n, but to me its a waste of money, and that I dont want to pass on to the fellas, if they want one designed then they can come to you.

That's fine.
It's just a bummer that they won't work with the great kit you put together.

Now....about purchasing the rear lines only....?

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

Well since I have spent the last little while with every brake line manufacuter known in the US and with one in the UK, you evidently know what they stock , what works better , and what is able to take more pressure.

I still dont think you can get them to design a junction block with all the different sizes, threads, have it machined, logoed, and powder coated for $25.
And the pic you put up is not of the junction block, it i of the front line connection.the junction block is behind that.

This is what you personally want and that is fine, but its my kit, its what I designed, I did the legwork, I spent over 2k in lines that dont work, and I am notgoing to spend any more time with a junction block.

If DC, Nowwhat, Jack, or Justin comes back and says I need to put the kit in a suit , with a top hat, and have it sing a broadway hit of the gay rendition of Cats then I will, till that , I'm done

 

[JRSVIPR]

Well since I have spent the last little while with every brake line manufacuter known in the US and with one in the UK, you evidently know what they stock , what works better , and what is able to take more pressure.

I still dont think you can get them to design a junction block with all the different sizes, threads, have it machined, logoed, and powder coated for $25.
And the pic you put up is not of the junction block, it i of the front line connection.the junction block is behind that.

This is what you personally want and that is fine, but its my kit, its what I designed, I did the legwork, I spent over 2k in lines that dont work, and I am notgoing to spend any more time with a junction block.

If DC, Nowwhat, Jack, or Justin comes back and says I need to put the kit in a suit , with a top hat, and have it sing a broadway hit of the gay rendition of Cats then I will, till that , I'm done

I think the top hat would be over kill.

 

[Kevan]

There's a straight rendition of Cats?

In the SM, the entire section where the 3 lines meet and are directed to their respective calipers is called "Junction Block". I'm just using their term.
Also, if you look closely, you can see not only the driver's side front line inlet and outlet (with the Popeye Pipe), but also the outlet port and line for the pass. side front caliper.

As I said before, powder coating would be extra (above and beyond the estimated $25). Everything else- all machining and the logo/engraving, would be included.
Even if it turns out to be $100., it's still worth it simply for the safety factor.

I NEVER said your kit sucked or was crappy. EVER.
I just asked why- if you're replacing 95% of the brake line system- you wouldn't want a junction block to finish off the job.
That's all.

I have no problem doing my own system. I just thought it'd be nice to offer my design to you for your kits.

 

[FSTJACK]

Even a cave man could do it..........

Well since I have spent the last little while with every brake line manufacuter known in the US and with one in the UK, you evidently know what they stock , what works better , and what is able to take more pressure.

I still dont think you can get them to design a junction block with all the different sizes, threads, have it machined, logoed, and powder coated for $25.
And the pic you put up is not of the junction block, it i of the front line connection.the junction block is behind that.

This is what you personally want and that is fine, but its my kit, its what I designed, I did the legwork, I spent over 2k in lines that dont work, and I am notgoing to spend any more time with a junction block.

The kit does not need a silly junction block...........PERIOD
You can't even really see the "junction block" without crawling around the ground on your hands and knees.


Stinker's front stainless kit is now on my red truck and it is just fine, pedal is much firmer and it looks cool as hell.......

The install is so easy even a cave man could do it..............

 

[Kevan]

The kit does not need a silly junction block...........PERIOD

I NEVER said it NEEDED it.
I just asked why you would do 95% of the brake line system and not spend a few extra bucks (or 20 or 50) to finish it off properly. To me it's like putting on a ROE supercharger then hooking the stock airbox up to it.

If Stinker doesn't want the junction block, that's fine.
I just offered my help and resources.

I guess that I am a little bummed that his kit won't work with the junction blocks I'm having built (they use the OEM Metric fittings instead of the AN fittings and adapters).
When I buy aftermarket stuff, I'd rather put a few coins in a friends pocket than give them to some faceless corporation.

You can't even really see the "junction block" without crawling around the ground on your hands and knees.

I'd be nice if that were true.
Unfortunately, it's not:

Sorry Jack.

Stinker's front stainless kit is now on my red truck and it is just fine, pedal is much firmer and it looks cool as hell.......

The install is so easy even a cave man could do it..............

Fantastic.
But I'm going to do something a little different.

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

:deadhorse:

I'll do whatever it takes to help ya out Kevan, but I didnt want to add comlexity or any more $ to the kit, I do appreciate all your efforts tho.

but I am having to only use one adapter,and most of the fittings are not an adapters jsut for info

 

[Kevan]

:deadhorse:

I'll do whatever it takes to help ya out Kevan, but I didnt want to add com[p]lexity or any more $ to the kit, I do appreciate all your efforts tho.

but I am having to only use one adapter,and most of the fittings are not an adapters jsut for info

Sorry about exhuming the dead horse, Tony.
Jack brought it up. Not me.

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

Sorry about exhuming the dead horse, Tony.
Jack brought it up. Not me.

LOLOL I just always want to use that one!!LOLOL

its freakin cool!!