Slippin tranny.............

LOL

UPDATE they are not going to open the transmission.

They had a valve body on order not a tranny. and it's 5 business days out........................

I told him the time doesn't matter because they will replace the valve body and when they get it put back together they will be pulling it back apart to do the bands......................... RETARDED!
 
Guys I just got off the phone with a guy from http://www.htstransmissions.com/ and he gave me alot of info!

First he said the first band is bad in my tranny, and that the dealership is replacing the valve body because it comes with the new governor solenoid.

The solenoid goes bad because it is magnatized and it picks up all the trash after the filter....................

He told me that when I get the truck back it will drive correctly because they are going to tighten down on the adjustment as much as they can to make it work. This will fail.....................................

He also told me the secret to getting these trannies right

ARE Y'ALL READY? FOR THE FIX THE THE 1-2-2-1-2-2-1 PROBLEM?

THE VALVE BODY AND PLATES ARE BAD THE CASINGS FROM THE FACTORY ARE SHIT! THIS UNEVEN (UNLAPPED) CASTING CAUSE'S COMMUNICATION BETWEEN THE PORTS ON THE TRANNY!

He told me that on the valve bodies he sells they lap the casings together, they increase piston size and do a whole bunch of stuff THAT ELIMINATES ALL OF THE PROBLEMS WITH THE STOCK TRANSMISSION!

He also said that with a new valve body and the addition of the 4-2 lever instead of the 5-0 lever that makes the tranny last longer and able to handle a paxton, roe or nos the 700 hp range. Thats no other upgrades just the valve body and lever..............................500 bucks?!
 
Any good AZ tranny shops that know about this? Anyone?
I dont want to replace a tranny when the POS goes out after warranty
 
bigike said:
Guys I just got off the phone with a guy from http://www.htstransmissions.com/ and he gave me alot of info!

First he said the first band is bad in my tranny, and that the dealership is replacing the valve body because it comes with the new governor solenoid.

The solenoid goes bad because it is magnatized and it picks up all the trash after the filter....................

He told me that when I get the truck back it will drive correctly because they are going to tighten down on the adjustment as much as they can to make it work. This will fail.....................................

He also told me the secret to getting these trannies right

ARE Y'ALL READY? FOR THE FIX THE THE 1-2-2-1-2-2-1 PROBLEM?

THE VALVE BODY AND PLATES ARE BAD THE CASINGS FROM THE FACTORY ARE SHIT! THIS UNEVEN (UNLAPPED) CASTING CAUSE'S COMMUNICATION BETWEEN THE PORTS ON THE TRANNY!

He told me that on the valve bodies he sells they lap the casings together, they increase piston size and do a whole bunch of stuff THAT ELIMINATES ALL OF THE PROBLEMS WITH THE STOCK TRANSMISSION!

He also said that with a new valve body and the addition of the 4-2 lever instead of the 5-0 lever that makes the tranny last longer and able to handle a paxton, roe or nos the 700 hp range. Thats no other upgrades just the valve body and lever..............................500 bucks?!

I just got my tranny back yesterday from shop that did mine. There are an amazing number of opinions on these things!
 
bigike said:
ON THE WAY TO THE DEALER WITH THE STOCK COMPUTER BACK IN. I HAD TO DRIVE IN 1ST UNTIL 4000 THEN SHIFT TO 3RD WITH NO THROTTLE. SECOND GEAR WAS ABSOLUTELY GONE, IT WOULD JUST HIT THE REV LIMITER!

that's the Identical problem I'm having... my truck's at Westminster now... we'll see what Joe says on monday when he looks at it ... I'll let you guys know

tranny issues... it's like a spreading Virus... who's gonna be next.....

any more issues... I'm gonna drop that tranny and put in a T56... <I don't care what it costs> :>
 
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my retarded dealership still says its the vlv body, and I know thats a problem but the tranny needs to be cracked and the bands need to be replaced.
 
tidnab said:
that's the Identical problem I'm having... my truck's at Westminster now... we'll see what Joe says on monday when he looks at it ... I'll let you guys know

tranny issues... it's like a spreading Virus... who's gonna be next.....

any more issues... I'm gonna drop that tranny and put in a T56... <I don't care what it costs> :>
Yeah, do it! The Tank with a 6 speed would be even more BAD ASS!:burnout: :burnout: :D
 
shade said:
What did your tranny guy say?
Im curious

Well, he didn't agree with any of the above.
He said a new input shaft was a must. He said to use a factory
drum instead of the larger one (with more surface area) to avoid part throttle shift timing issues. He said NOT to use a shift kit and instead increase line pressure via software tweaks. And, lastly to use a vintage band from an old 727. A lot of the advice he received was from Joe at Westminster Trans.
 
tidnab said:
that's the Identical problem I'm having... my truck's at Westminster now... we'll see what Joe says on monday when he looks at it ... I'll let you guys know

tranny issues... it's like a spreading Virus... who's gonna be next.....

any more issues... I'm gonna drop that tranny and put in a T56... <I don't care what it costs> :>


Bud...Your problem will continue to be the spray. All my tranny problems began when I went a bit overzealous with a 150 shot on the dyno.

Your 300 shot brings the torque too fast and the line pressure just doesn't increase fast enough causing slip. It will first start on with the converter and then the rest of the tranny.

I am willing to bet that your converter is pretty much toasted...But it ain't the converter's fault but line pressure.

I am not a expert, but Joe is and he will set you straight...
 
jrgnd said:
Bud...Your problem will continue to be the spray. All my tranny problems began when I went a bit overzealous with a 150 shot on the dyno.

Your 300 shot brings the torque too fast and the line pressure just doesn't increase fast enough causing slip. It will first start on with the converter and then the rest of the tranny.

I am willing to bet that your converter is pretty much toasted...But it ain't the converter's fault but line pressure.

I am not a expert, but Joe is and he will set you straight...

we'll see on monday... if it doesn't sound good or cost too much.. I will just spend more for the stinker special.. or work on getting a built T56 for it:D ... I miss the ripstick anyway.... and yes I know it'll be slower....
 
bigike said:
my retarded dealership still says its the vlv body, and I know thats a problem but the tranny needs to be cracked and the bands need to be replaced.


If you told them the truth about the mods you have maybe they would be able to diagnose the problem a little better...

Guess I am the lone voice here...but if you mod, you should be ready to be truthful and pay for the problems that the mods may create. Just my opinion, many of you seem to feel differently. Your warranty is an agreement between you and the dealer, if you expect them to live up to their agreement, you should live up to yours. Its much more about ethics than money.

But I guess we all draw our own lines...I refuse to put front license plates on...I also have no cats...so to each his own.
 
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Prof said:
If you told them the truth about the mods you have maybe they would be able to diagnose the problem a little better...

Guess I am the lone voice here...but if you mod, you should be ready to be truthful and pay for the problems that the mods may create. Just my opinion, many of you seem to feel differently. Your warranty is an agreement between you and the dealer, if you expect them to live up to their agreement, you should live up to yours. Its much more about ethics than money.

But I guess we all draw our own lines...I refuse to put front license plates on...I also have no cats...so to each his own.

Sir, when the dealer plays fair and only voids what was modified if it caused the failure, then and only then I will be fair on my disclosures.

They also have a agreement with me and I am sorry to say that most don't follow it.

IMHO.
 
I may be totally wrong about this but if you increase the power that goes through the power train then you have taken the vehicle beyond the limits of the agreement. Flashing a pcm increases the stress on every part of the power train. I fully agree that if you flash your pcm and the electric windows go out, the warranty should apply. But while our automatic transmissions have been a weak point once you mod for increased performance the warranty is null and void for the power train...I think you would agree if you were the person making the business decisions for the manufacturing company.
 
Prof said:
If you told them the truth about the mods you have maybe they would be able to diagnose the problem a little better...

Guess I am the lone voice here...but if you mod, you should be ready to be truthful and pay for the problems that the mods may create. Just my opinion, many of you seem to feel differently. Your warranty is an agreement between you and the dealer, if you expect them to live up to their agreement, you should live up to yours. Its much more about ethics than money.

But I guess we all draw our own lines...I refuse to put front license plates on...I also have no cats...so to each his own.

Not a lone voice Prof. Just in the gray area. :hmmmm2:

Best combustion for power is about 13 A/F ratio. If you add a flash to better you A/F ratio more power is had (along with timing and advancement). So you haven't really changed the design of your engine or added a mod, only optimized your engine as designed. The engineers didn't sit down and say, hey run this engine at 10.5 A/F ratio and limit the timing to 29 degrees.

Now throwing in 150 shot of NOS would be where I would definitely draw the line.

Once again, a flash would be debatable, but other mods (NOS, FI) I think we are all in agreement on.


Personally, I don't take my trucks to the local stealerships. I know the local manager and owner (on my street), they know my mods, and I don't push the subject on them. :D:p:eek: I did however, let them 'talk' to their service manager about her voiding my Hemi warranty for my cats!
 
Prof said:
I may be totally wrong about this but if you increase the power that goes through the power train then you have taken the vehicle beyond the limits of the agreement. Flashing a pcm increases the stress on every part of the power train. I fully agree that if you flash your pcm and the electric windows go out, the warranty should apply. But while our automatic transmissions have been a weak point once you mod for increased performance the warranty is null and void for the power train...I think you would agree if you were the person making the business decisions for the manufacturing company.

So, as stated above if you make any mods that increases horsepower, Chrylser should void the warranty. Regardless of the horsepower increase. Let's say 5 HP from a K&N Filter.

I guess from now on I will just buy a used vehicle that doesn't have a warranty and mod it they way I want it. That would avoid this dilemma all together.:D
 
There is no need to Diagnose any further the tranny has no second gear. It needs an overhaul...............

They are replacing the valve body and gov solenoid, because they have been bad for 4 months and the tranny has been acting up for a while.

Also 2nd gear went out with the truck stock minus the CIA...................

As soon as it's out of warrant or I get flagged i'm getting a tranny from this guy www.htstransmissions.com Dusty, a really nice man that knows the 727 tranny like the back of his hand!
 
Prof said:
I may be totally wrong about this but if you increase the power that goes through the power train then you have taken the vehicle beyond the limits of the agreement. Flashing a pcm increases the stress on every part of the power train. I fully agree that if you flash your pcm and the electric windows go out, the warranty should apply. But while our automatic transmissions have been a weak point once you mod for increased performance the warranty is null and void for the power train...I think you would agree if you were the person making the business decisions for the manufacturing company.

Prof, I agree with you 100%. When I flashed my truck, I knew the risks. Dodge limited the r.p.m. and harshness of the 1-2 shift which is where the weakness seem to be. If I was a manufacturer and had the ability to protect my investment, I would do the same. The diesel guys are starting to feel the manufacturer's wrath as it is getting more and more difficult to chip a diesel and easier for them to determine if they have been flashed and then removed for warranty work. I know more than one guy that has been stung in this area.

After I installed a flash, my tranny lasted 40,000 more miles (with regular servicing) before it cratered, which is reasonable.
I don't think the dealers are really anxious to get involved in major overhauls as their labour rates paid by Mopar are "somewhat less" than they would receive from the general public when doing work for them. And of course they also take a hit on parts. So, the dealers in some cases drive people to the brink of nastiness when they come in with a problem during warranty or extended warranty period and try and get warranty work done.
 

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