Spark plug poped out, believe thread is gone

Livelifetolive

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2010
Messages
68
Reaction score
0
Location
Miami, FL
OK, problem about a month ago. Started hearing tapping noise..realized it was a loose spark plug. #8 I believe, 2nd from back on passager side. So, I took off the wire, put the plug back, tighten and all was good. 2 days later, you hear a POP! Spark plug came out. I put it back tighten, it hasn't came out but car running like shit! I drove it maybe 5 miles back home.

So what are my options and any ideas or recommendations of what need to be done?
 
I had a helicoil put in a small block Chevy manifold distributor hold down and it was nice.very strong.hope something like that works for your.
 
Cylinder pressure would have me worried with a heliocoil, new head maybe?
 
Helicoil should work, I know some older 5.4 Fords had that problem and that's what they fix them with
 
Yes all the 99 to early 03 2v heads had 4 thread heads I blew a plug out also bit unlike you when I blew it , that hole was gone ford retapped the hole an put a helicoil in that was 4 yrs ago
 
Guess it wouldn't hurt to try the helicoil .seems like there's nothing to lose.worse thing your back to square one.
 
I had it done on a 350 Chevy that I had in a boat. We took the head off to do it though. There are videos on YouTube that people do it with the head on. I don't think I would want that metal from tapping it in my engine. It held up fine for the 3 years I had it, until the exhaust broke and dumped salt water into the engine.
 
Like stated Helicoil. If a boosted 5.4 can handle it with its cylinder pressure I dont see why a N/A motor couldn't either.
 
Like stated Helicoil. If a boosted 5.4 can handle it with its cylinder pressure I dont see why a N/A motor couldn't either.

I agree completely. Don't be afraid of Helicoil. It is very strong, when done correctly.

You still may (probably) have to remove the head to have it done, but that still beats buying a new cylinder head.
 
I was thinking in terms of having to pull head anyways to keep metal shavings out of piston, figured why chance it on a motor this expensive. Cheaper to buy a small block Chevy or Ford than a Viper block if you mess up a cylinder.
 
I was thinking in terms of having to pull head anyways to keep metal shavings out of piston, figured why chance it on a motor this expensive. Cheaper to buy a small block Chevy or Ford than a Viper block if you mess up a cylinder.

Poolboy where have you been ?
 
A properly installed Heli Coil is Stronger than the Original Aluminum Threads in the Head.
If you are careful use heavy grease on the Tap, you can prevent any metal from getting into the engine. Remove the tap after every full turn to remove chips then re-grease it.
 
I was thinking in terms of having to pull head anyways to keep metal shavings out of piston, figured why chance it on a motor this expensive. Cheaper to buy a small block Chevy or Ford than a Viper block if you mess up a cylinder.

If you dont know how to do it on the truck without messing up your motor than you have no business doing it in the first place.
 
A properly installed Heli Coil is Stronger than the Original Aluminum Threads in the Head.
If you are careful use heavy grease on the Tap, you can prevent any metal from getting into the engine. Remove the tap after every full turn to remove chips then re-grease it.

This guy speaks the truth.
 
A properly installed Heli Coil is Stronger than the Original Aluminum Threads in the Head.
If you are careful use heavy grease on the Tap, you can prevent any metal from getting into the engine. Remove the tap after every full turn to remove chips then re-grease it.

I think it can safely be done with the head on. I purchased a kit for my 5.4L ford work truck that included the reaming tool, tap, and insert with pin. I did it with the head on and have run the truck an additional 100K miles without any problems. Heavy grease on the tap/reamer and also took a long straw and taped it to vacuum cleaner and cleaned out the cylinder.
 
I think it can safely be done with the head on. I purchased a kit for my 5.4L ford work truck that included the reaming tool, tap, and insert with pin. I did it with the head on and have run the truck an additional 100K miles without any problems. Heavy grease on the tap/reamer and also took a long straw and taped it to vacuum cleaner and cleaned out the cylinder.

Sounds good.

I have done a crankshaft before (for the bolt that holds the balancer on) and it was not a big deal and that balancer/pulley setup had a done of load on it, as I was running a blower. No failures ever, and that engine made a ton of 10-sec passes without any issues (certainly from the crank).

But that was a different (and easier) job than tapping a spark plug thread, which will be more tedious... however, you have the experience to get it done right.
 
have you done any work to the engine lately?

I have not. The thing is I've only had the car a year now, so who knows what really has been done to it.


As for as everyone's elses advice. I think really the only thing I can do is the Helicoil. My issuse now was wondering if I could do it without taking out the head. We'll see.

Thanks again guys.

I'll keep you updated
 
Get yourself one of thoughs snake cams . After you do the repair you can check in the cylinder for debris and then remove them with a rigged up shopvac. I would try with the head on. Last resort would be to remove the head if you couldn't get the shavings out. Good luck. Helicons are stronger than the original aluminum threads .
 

Latest posts

Support Us

Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Back
Top