Spark Plugs...

500snakz

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Ok...I changed 8 plugs...Now guess which 2 that I did not change...

I bet you guessed right if you ever changed them yourself. The back 2 on the driver side.
How the "F" do you change them with the heat shield around the plug wires? I had to pull out all the other heat shields on the other plugs because none of the 3 plug sockets that I have would fit down to get a bite on the plug. The last 2 I cant figure out how to remove the heat shields(not enough room)to remove the plugs. Even if I did get them out,I would'nt be able to get them back in.
Do you guys have any tips or tricks on getting them out? :dontknow:
 
500snakz said:
Ok...I changed 8 plugs...Now guess which 2 that I did not change...

I bet you guessed right if you ever changed them yourself. The back 2 on the driver side.
How the "F" do you change them with the heat shield around the plug wires? I had to pull out all the other heat shields on the other plugs because none of the 3 plug sockets that I have would fit down to get a bite on the plug. The last 2 I cant figure out how to remove the heat shields(not enough room)to remove the plugs. Even if I did get them out,I would'nt be able to get them back in.
Do you guys have any tips or tricks on getting them out? :dontknow:

Longer (deeper) sockets. The standard size is not deep enough for the back one. I thought mine were stripped the first time.
 
the round heat shields????
90 degree needle nose or 90 degree spark plug boot remover???
 
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I asked the same question here, and got a couple of suggestions. All said to go ahead and take the time to jack up the truck, remove the tire and inner fender. Not hard to do, and the easiest way to change the rear plugs.
 
i used vise grips to pull the shields the a couple extensions and some u-joints.. when i installed the new wires i used ....



they look alot better.
 

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perk_1405 said:
i used vise grips to pull the shields the a couple extensions and some u-joints.. when i installed the new wires i used ....



they look alot better.

I had the same idea for the boot protectors, in fact I'm just getting ready to buy some from Summit.

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=400384+300454+115&autoview=sku

They sell them in sets of 8 and by the pair. Anyone else gone this route? pics? I hope this isn't thread hijacking, but it seems related to the original question.:)
 
04rcmoneypit said:
I asked the same question here, and got a couple of suggestions. All said to go ahead and take the time to jack up the truck, remove the tire and inner fender. Not hard to do, and the easiest way to change the rear plugs.
I also had a machinist at work turn down a spark plug socket on a lathe. Made it a lot easier.
 
this is the only two i have. i got mine from advance.
 

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The Itch said:
Longer (deeper) sockets. The standard size is not deep enough for the back one. I thought mine were stripped the first time.
The socket is not keeping it from coming out....its the heat shield. The socket is long enough, it's just too thick in the diameter of the socker wall.
 
04rcmoneypit said:
I also had a machinist at work turn down a spark plug socket on a lathe. Made it a lot easier.
Good idea...I may have to try and get one done...
 
04rcmoneypit said:
I also had a machinist at work turn down a spark plug socket on a lathe. Made it a lot easier.
Hook a brother up...:marchmellow:
 
I finally got them in. I did it caveman style.. I grabed the shields with a regular pair of pliars and worked them out. To put them back in, I mashed the diameter closed just a little bit and sprayed wd-40 on them and tapped them back in with the ratchet handle. Almost worth the 130.00 to let the dealer do it.(ALMOST) I WILL be buying the ones from jegs before the next replacement!!!
 
I threw out the small shields and always unbolt the large 1-piece shields before working with spark plugs. Use some nickel anti-seize on the bolts before reinstalling them.

As far as putting plugs back in...
Buy a length of rubber or plastic tubing that will fit over (snug) the top stud of the plug and you can spin the tubing and thread the plug into the hole quite easily.

PS Try to point the electrodes between 10 and 2 o'clock (not 4 and 8) when installing. The o.e.m. heads will like it. It is a bit trickier in the back on the Driver's side but not impossible. Indexing 8 out of 10 will help anyway if you can't do them all. There was so much soot in the stock chambers when I pulled the heads, I think every bit helps... The o.e.m.s are decent breathers but their combustion space leaves something to be desired... It pretty much sucks I.M.H.O.

I'm haven't pulled the Strikers yet to see if plug indexing is helping... That chamber is much like an LS1 and may not benefit as much.

Ron
 
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All the plugs looked great and only had minimal carbon. They did have a slight redish tint to them. The gap on the plugs removed were all close to .040. I gaped the new ones to .035. It does idle smoother as compared to before(still feels beastly) I did not notice any change in my 1/8 or 1/4 times. 0-60 is still the same also.
 
I just went throught the same thing on mine. I got all but the back one on the drivers side done from the top, the back one I got from underneath. I also decided it was easier to take the heat shields off then work around then. Jacked up one boot before I decided to pull the individual shields for the plugs. Now I have some MSD wires on the way...
 

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