Sweden checking in! (and some questions)

J

Jackiechan

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Hi there people!

Just saying Hi and dropping some thoughts :)

I got my first american car for a couple of weeks ago. And what else if not a viper truck? God I love it! Not very common over here, but I got a good price and just the model ive been looking for. A red rc in good condition!

Runs perfectly with the low mileage of 19000miles and it is well taken care of.

BUT, I got a discount for a problem the truck had when I bought it. Ive been reading alot about it and it is the reverse gear. The shifter wont go all the way and I have to put a small pressure on the shifter while I slowly let the clutch up and it pops in. One or two times it has jumped out and a small grinding noise is appeared.

Im pretty sure it has something to do with the shortshifter that wont let the shifter go all the way?? Anyway right now the "reverse blocker" is unconnected and it is a much clearer and longer movement to the right against the reverse.. Works better now. Do you have any other suggestions that I can try?

One more thing, do you know any good dealer in Europe that can provide me with parts in the future?

Long text. Sorry! And I hope you guys can understand my english ;)

207uc6t.jpg


Check out my truck and I promise you will hear more from me :rock:
 
Welcome to the VTCoA!
 
Welcome from Colorado, USA. Contact Arska2 on this forum. He is the best resource in Europe for the SRT10's.
 
Thanks for the flowers :D

Welcome to the club from Germany.

If you have any questions dont hesitate to contact me.

All the best

Arne
 
Welcome to the Zoo. try to bleed the slave cylinder . sounds like you are not getting enough separation of the clutch, to engage reverse. try this to see if it is better.... while stopped , disengage the clutch and put transmission into first gear , then quickly find reverse. putting it into first gear will stop the input cluster,hopefully, long enough to grab reverse without grinding. These trucks did have issues with the hydraulic release bearing leaking.
 
welcome from Vegas, sorry about the slow red truck, Yellow is the way to go!!!!

Venomous1 had a video about taking the spring out to make it easier to engage, doesn't seem to think it will hurt anything, unless you forget how far over 5th is……………..:chain:
 
Welcome from the Pacific NW..home of Microsoft, Starbucks, Costco, Amazon, Boeing and Jimmy Hendrix.
 
Thank you guys!


The thing about the clutch and the slavecylinder feels like a long shot. All the other gears works properly. If the clutch doesnt work, non of the gears will? or am I wrong? :dontknow:


I saw the video of the spring removal to the "reverseblocker". But I have disconnected the electric to the module, same thing as removing it? It was in constant lock when the car was still, but now I can put the reverse in, much easier :)

Cheers!
 
Jackiechan said:
Thank you guys!


The thing about the clutch and the slavecylinder feels like a long shot. All the other gears works properly. If the clutch doesnt work, non of the gears will? or am I wrong? :dontknow:


I saw the video of the spring removal to the "reverseblocker". But I have disconnected the electric to the module, same thing as removing it? It was in constant lock when the car was still, but now I can put the reverse in, much easier :)

Cheers!
Click to expand...

Good to hear. What happens is that solenoid will fail in locked or unlocked position. Usually in locked, but change hit a bump and engage again. Therefore I removed the spring. You'll be much happier with spring removed as you don't fight to get into reverse gate. Welcome again :)
 
Hi again!

About the reverse gear problem.. It is the same as before BUT now when the car has been driven for a while and is warm the reverse wont even get in at all.. It is just grinding like there is nog clutcheffect at all..

I have tried replacing the trannyoil, centre the shortshifter and disconnect the solenoid..

So im thinking this must has to do with the clutch... There is no leaking from the slave/master cylinder. Do you think I should buy new ones anyway? It is not a big cost and might solve the problem, but I also think the sync-ring for reverse is finished bc of the reversegear popping out sometimes when engaged.

And I should say that from 4-5th gear I always have to press the shifter two times to get in 5th.

Maybe its just better to let someone take the tranny down for a look and replace bad parts, even though the costs will get high.. Im just tired of struggling with the gearbox from time to time :(
 
You keep saying short shifter. If its an after market shifter it may not be adjusted correctly to fully engage. I'd check that first before tearing down the transmission.
 
Yes it is a B&M-shifter. What do you mean adjusted? Can I adjust the shortshifter?

Or do you suggest I try replace it with stock shifter? :)

Thanks /Jacob
 
The B&M is a great shifter. Check that the mounting bolts havn't come loose. Try to bleed the clutch slave cylinder. The master cylinder might be toast. There is no syncros for reverse. If it grinds trying to engage then the clutch is still turning the mainshaft. clutch hydraulics . start there. and have fun!
 
No loose mounting bolts.

No syncros? I talked to a "popular" workshop for our american cars over here and they said "It is always the syncro for the reverse on these cars, we have changed this several times and it costs this and that much.."

Is he trying to make the bills bigger for the job or what is he talking about then? :S

Ill take a closer look at the hydraulics, thank you :)
 
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