Tech Advice (Chevy): Attention ol' skoolers!

Black1

Black1

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I'm putting the suspension back on the '67 Vette after having all my bushings replaced with Polyurathane....

My question is:

Should I use Loctite on the 8 bolts (4 on each side) connecting the half-shafts to the hub assembly (half-shaft spindle flange)? :confused: :dontknow:

...... When I took it apart, I found TWO of the 4 bolts on the passenger side were sheered off, and the rest were less than finger-tight! :eek: :mad: I had my local shop remove the two broken bolts and check/clean the threads, so that is all set... I just don't want them coming out again. :eek: There ARE "French Locks" that secure the bolts, but they obviously didn't do a good job of it....

Anyone have any insight, or advise on this? :eek: TIA
 
SilvrSRT10 said:
I'm not an expert but I don't see where a little Blue loctite would hurt anything. It will hold everything in place and act as an anti seize (coat the threads) if it ever needs to be removed in the future.:dontknow:

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products/detail.asp?catid=10&subid=48&plid=153

Grease the bushings or they'll squeak.
Click to expand...

Yep, always use the blue.... They have "red" for heavy duty stuff, but I've never seen the need for it. :dontknow: :)

Bushings are greased. :rock:

Thanks! :)
 
Black1 said:
Yep, always use the blue.... They have "red" for heavy duty stuff, but I've never seen the need for it. :dontknow: :)

Bushings are greased. :rock:

Thanks! :)
Click to expand...
Yeah, the red stuff says hand tools and heat for removal. Sounds like some tough stuff. A little overkill.
 
I had a 69 SuperBee with a built 383 Magnum in it. I used Red on mine because I figured if I had to get it off again It was because I had a bigger problem than the bolts. Just my opinion!:)
 
Rockin Ronnie said:
I had a 69 SuperBee with a built 383 Magnum in it. I used Red on mine because I figured if I had to get it off again It was because I had a bigger problem than the bolts. Just my opinion!:)
Click to expand...

That is a good point.....

..... But, eventually, I may need to get it back apart for a side axle bearing job. I'm already kicking myself for NOT doing this R&R before I put it all back together, but they seem fine for now. It requires taking the whole diff out of the car, and I don't have the time or the money for that right now. :eek: Next expenditure will be the motor and trans R&R (clutch is shot... going with a modern Centerforce. Also refreshing the 327 and adding "goodies". :) Should have about 380-400hp when I'm done. :rock: :burnout: ).
 
Use blue lok-tite, but lube the bushings so they don't make noise.

Bill.
 
Begood said:
Use blue lok-tite, but lube the bushings so they don't make noise.

Bill.
Click to expand...

Cool... Thanks, Billy! :) How's things with you? You guys planing a trip to "paradise" any time soon? :dontknow:

Yep, it's not my first row-day-o on the poly bushings..... that's why I HIRED someone to put these in. LOL! :eek: :p ;) Energy Suspension supplies the "lube" for each bushing, and my shop used it (he included the empty packages in my box of old bushings). :congrats: The guy I found has a C2 Vette (NICE '65), and has a few local corvette guys as followers. He's pretty knowledgeable too. The shop he works for only does race cars/scca cars/drag cars/classics/etc... No "junk" :rock: They ain't cheap, but if I wasn't going to do it, I wanted someone who knew what they were doing. ;) I didn't want my a-arms bent, because they didn't have the right tool (a piece of pipe with a 1" section cut out of it to accommodate the mounting bar). They were happy to show me all the tools and relieve my fears (of someone ELSE working on my baby) as best they could...... I'm going to have them align it when I get it back together. :)
 
i would replace with teflon nuts or aircraft nuts. they will not back off on there on. but would be easily removed it you needed to take them back off.
 
Ylw-Fvr said:
i would replace with teflon nuts or aircraft nuts. they will not back off on there on. but would be easily removed it you needed to take them back off.
Click to expand...

No Teflon nutz here, Bro.... Old School (tried and true) grade-8 bolts w/ lock washers. :eek:
 
Black1 said:
No Teflon nutz here, Bro.... Old School (tried and true) grade-8 bolts w/ lock washers. :eek:
Click to expand...


good deal jake, but take a small amount of blue, but dont put it on until the nut is almost at the end point, that way you have less bleed over.

or........you can take a punch and nipple the nut jsut a hair towards the bolt and it want lock it , but will keep it from backing off as bad also, and no need for the loc tite. and its not noticable either
 
Stinker said:
good deal jake, but take a small amount of blue, but dont put it on until the nut is almost at the end point, that way you have less bleed over.

or........you can take a punch and nipple the nut jsut a hair towards the bolt and it want lock it , but will keep it from backing off as bad also, and no need for the loc tite. and its not noticable either
Click to expand...

Thanks, Bro....

One thing, tho... The flange on the trailing arm (hub side of the set-up) is threaded. the flange on the end of the half-shaft isn't threaded (bolt goes THRU this piece and threads into the hub side flange).

You can "kinda" see it from HERE. <------ You click it. The schematic is missing the half-shaft... but, I think you'll get the idea. ;) :p
 
Sounds like you got it covered Jake,
Any vehicle I assemble always gets a little of the blue Loctite and when installing poly urethane bushings,Use only the paste lube recommended by the manufacturer(Energy suspension)generously.Grade 8 bolts and loctite will keep you snug and trouble free:D
Looking forward to a ride in that beast:burnout:
 
Got a question for you son.

Were the bolts originally Grade 8? If not, you may be heading for trouble depending on how they are loaded.

Grade 8 are stronger bolts, but they will fail sooner in shock load or fatigue load conditions since they are brittle in comparison to a grade 5.

Remember, stonger is not always better.
 
Silverback said:
Got a question for you son.

Were the bolts originally Grade 8? If not, you may be heading for trouble depending on how they are loaded.

Grade 8 are stronger bolts, but they will fail sooner in shock load or fatigue load conditions since they are brittle in comparison to a grade 5.

Remember, stonger is not always better.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Pop.... That's why I love ya. :) :eek:

I'm going to Eckler's to get the actual bolts that need to be on the car. They are right down the street and have them in stock. I'm not sure what they are (g8/g5) but they have a certain casting mark on the bolt head. :dontknow: I figured I would just go with what is stock, but thanks for backing me up on it.... It makes me feel a lot better, that you have the same opinion. :rock:

http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf_id=27023&dept_id=1869

http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf_id=45571&dept_id=1866
:burnout:
 
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