Thermostats.

DIABLO_X22

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I Want To Put In A Cooler Thermostat, Any Suggestions Of What Degree, And Manufacture???? Any Ones "Better" Than Others? Going To Do A Coolant Flush Too, Any Other Suggestions "While Im In There"?????

I Know Its Pretty Basic But I Know A Lot Of You Guy's Have The "Expertise" Around Here!!!!! So I Thought I Would Ask!
 
DIABLO_X22 said:
I Want To Put In A Cooler Thermostat, Any Suggestions Of What Degree, And Manufacture???? Any Ones "Better" Than Others? Going To Do A Coolant Flush Too, Any Other Suggestions "While Im In There"?????

I Know Its Pretty Basic But I Know A Lot Of You Guy's Have The "Expertise" Around Here!!!!! So I Thought I Would Ask!
170 degree. But it wont do you much good untill you flash you r pcm or get a hendheld programmer to turn on your fan sooner. Hope that helps.
 
Santeen is right on. If you do change there is a hidden bolt thats a sumbitch to get off, especially when you get that slippery stuff all over your hands and tools! Do a search and you can read several threads about it.

I bought my t stat from DC Performance as well as my flash.

patrick
 
All posts above are correct but one thing to remember aluminum engines prefer to run a little hotter than iron. Unless you are running hot enough that the ECU is pulling timing I wouldn't worry about it. Here in Phx its pretty easy to hit that threshold but key still is getting more air through the radiator...i.e. get those fans to turn on earlier and run faster.
 
I went with a 180 temp and I forgot what seans has it turned on at but at 170 that fan runs forever and if your not gonna replace the stock fan eventually ($1200 bucks by the way) is gonna give out. PLus it actually like Chuck B said runs better at about 180 to 190. Also you can get a electric pusher to put on the front of the radiator with an on/switch or flexlite has a rhe0stat adjustable temp sensor that can turn it on from 160 and up. Just another route you can look at also, next week I am doin one on mine, then this winter I am swapping out the stock fan for dual electric from the Stink.
 
Chuck B said:
All posts above are correct but one thing to remember aluminum engines prefer to run a little hotter than iron.

That is for sure; and power can fall off if they run too cold.
 
Im Doing A SCT Tune, K&N CIA. So, I Do Or Dont Want A 170 Degree??????????? Any Fan Mods Recommended?????? Man This Stuff Can Get Overwhelming!!!!!!!
 
If you are changing the coolant either keep using the factory type but if you decide to switch to green or anything else its extremely important you flush out all the factory coolant. Dexcool doesn't much care to be mixed.

I'd keep the factory temp and if you have issues with getting too warm i.e. CPU pulling timing then either program your fans to come on earlier/faster or aftermarket electrical fans etc. I see no reason to drop in a lower temp thermo in our engines. If you are running hot enough to reach say 205F it will do it if there is a 170 or 190 thermo in place.

Only way to bring down temps is more air flow or larger radiator.
 
if your gonna run a blower or uncoated headers, get the t-stat, otherwise for the 1 month of summer in illinois:D, it's not necessary.
 
mr. anderson said:
if your gonna run a blower or uncoated headers, get the t-stat, otherwise for the 1 month of summer in illinois:D, it's not necessary.
Got that right 97 yesterday and with the a/c on my temps never got over 200 and felt no power loss from the super charger ( some nutty broad in a Suv m3 got squirrely:D ) pulled like a sumbitch and at 120 still stayed around 200 but I am putting an auxliary pusher fan for sitting in traffic.
 

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