thinking about a roe supercharger....

[Dustin1515]

i know alot of you have them and im very determined to get one asap.... few questions... do i need to do anything to the motor before i put this on with the 5.8lb pully..also is anyone selling one if so lets make this happen

 

[Demon 8]

Research a little D. You would be taking a big risk putting that on a stock motor.

 

[LoveThisTruck]

You're much better off building the motor before you put a blower on.

The motor might last 30k miles with the blower on... or it might last 500 miles It's a time bomb

 

[SRTINCT]

And you'll need to find a used one as I don't think Sean is producing anymore at this time.

 

[Prof]

If you are going to FI now, then yes a Roe is the way to go.

But think very seriously about building the bottom end prior to moving away from normal aspiration. Once the bottom is bullet proof, then add the Roe and you will have the perfect street machine.

 

[TNVIPER]

If you are going to FI now, then yes a Roe is the way to go.

But think very seriously about building the bottom end prior to moving away from normal aspiration. Once the bottom is bullet proof, then add the Roe and you will have the perfect street machine.

Sound advice...:shakehands:

 

[Dustin1515]

thanks for the advice guys...does anyone know about how much it costs to build the bottem end im not to firmiliar with this motor or costs for parts but im just wondering before i do research.... and where do i send the motor to be built

 

[bigike]

5-7 grand Or you can do a in-frame with new pistons/rods and a good crosshatch with a dingleberry hone for 2000

 

[nycstev]

thanks for the advice guys...does anyone know about how much it costs to build the bottem end im not to firmiliar with this motor or costs for parts but im just wondering before i do research.... and where do i send the motor to be built

Mine cost 15k

 

[bigike]

Steve are you running the 10# pulley yet????

 

[Dustin1515]

geezee well if i do an infram is that just as good can the stock crank handle the power

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

do it correctly not half assed, in the long run you will be much happier

there is a reason a good rebuild runs close to 10k.

like the ol saying , "if you got a $10 head , wear a $10 helmet"

 

[pokeytemplar]

A properly prepped factory crank can easily handle 1500HP. Stock Rods and Pistons no where close........

 

[DevilDawg3097]

5-7 grand Or you can do a in-frame with new pistons/rods and a good crosshatch with a dingleberry hone for 2000

close it 2600 best drop in I have ever installed. It is not as bad as it sounds it was pretty easy but you will need an extra hand when you drop the pistons in, other then that:burnout: :burnout: :burnout: :burnout: K1 and Wiseco:rock: :rock:

 

[Prof]

Mine was nearly $18k, but my sponsor paid for it. And that included 4k in pull and put.


I have a strong recommendation on who to go to...

The man that is currently building Dale's engine (he also built Eric's and mine) and he is only charging for the parts! Yup he is kicking in his hours to help Dale!

Listen up guys...we owe this guy a couple of engine builds...

John Edwards is the man of the hour if you ask me.

He is outstanding, has built racing engines for Arrow, and Archer Racing for years.

He is in Michigan...I will provide phone and address if you PM me.

Roy

 

[bigike]

close it 2600 best drop in I have ever installed. It is not as bad as it sounds it was pretty easy but you will need an extra hand when you drop the pistons in, other then that:burnout: :burnout: :burnout: :burnout: K1 and Wiseco:rock: :rock:

Yeah buddy, I've kicked around a bunch of idea's. Thought out loud on different builders. After doing my leak down at less then 2%, I'll just do the in-frame with stinkers parts. Keeping it at 650-675 ish horsepower.

I'll see if my gm solenoid and dts valve body help my transmission and if they do I will take the money we are saving for a tranny and in-frame this thing on a week off.

Heck you already did the hard part, all I've got to do is follow your directions!

 

[bigike]

:dontknow:

do it correctly not half assed, in the long run you will be much happier

there is a reason a good rebuild runs close to 10k.

like the ol saying , "if you got a $10 head , wear a $10 helmet"

The big BUT, If the pistons/rods are the problem. And you have good cylinders that mic out correctly (I will run a bore gauge in all holes and document the bore) with no ridge. Your piston/rod/ring/bearing kit will be more than a bandade for us that are content with only having 700 hp...... right?

 

[Carlwalski]

If you put any FI on to a stock engine all you are doing is pulling up a seat at the slot machine and pulling the handle every time you slam the gas pedal. Don't take the risk. If you skimp now, you pay double later, it's that simple. While NA engines may and do last, it won't be for ever. From my many hours of research on this topic (as I plan to Roe SC The BATRAM) this is easily the biggest consensus and in layman's terms: Stock crank, cam and heads are more than fine for 800rwhp+. Pistons and rods are good for about 550rwhp (max). Get some forged pistons (Wiseco, JE or Diamond) and some nice brand name connecting rods like K1 and you're pretty much good to go. Have the engine rounded, balanced, port match the heads, new gaskets, upgrade the plugs and just do an overhaul of the "little" items as you do with any engine build (like ARP head and cross bolts and main studs, rod and main bearings, etc) and you'll have a very reliable, safe and stout street engine. The biggest and just about as important of not equal thing after a good build is having it tuned correctly. For $ reference, I plan on spending around $8-10K US on engine parts and around $5-7K US on the engine build itself. Supercharger purchase and install not included.


Best of luck mate.

 

[Yellow venom]

If you put any FI on to a stock engine all you are doing is pulling up a seat at the slot machine and pulling the handle every time you slam the gas pedal. Don't take the risk. If you skimp now, you pay double later, it's that simple. While NA engines may and do last, it won't be for ever. From my many hours of research on this topic (as I plan to Roe SC The BATRAM) this is easily the biggest consensus and in layman's terms: Stock crank, cam and heads are more than fine for 800rwhp+. Pistons and rods are good for about 550rwhp (max). Get some forged pistons (Wiseco, JE or Diamond) and some nice brand name connecting rods like K1 and you're pretty much good to go. Have the engine rounded, balanced, port match the heads, new gaskets, upgrade the plugs and just do an overhaul of the "little" items as you do with any engine build (like ARP head and cross bolts and main studs, rod and main bearings, etc) and you'll have a very reliable, safe and stout street engine. The biggest and just about as important of not equal thing after a good build is having it tuned correctly. For $ reference, I plan on spending around $8-10K US on engine parts and around $5-7K US on the engine build itself. Supercharger purchase and install not included.


Best of luck mate.

Some very good choices in parts,I am haveing a very similar build being done right now,except I am using CP Racing pistins,larger wrist pins with wire locks, and Pro Gram billet mains and a little trick in the heads (still stock) ,coated all the bearings and then putting the ROE on:burnout: :burnout: :burnout: 6PSI this year and then get an intercooler and pump the boost up to 15PSI and finsh my heads off with different valves,springs,retainers ,push rods and rockers and do some porting and polishing and a custom cam.:rock: