Threads on my yoke are stripped, what do I do?

[Troy's QC SRT]

I'm installing my driveshaft and after having a hard time installing two of the bolts on the yolk clamps i decide to pull the bolts back out......come to find out the threads in the yoke are screwed up and also destroyed two of my new bolts! would i be good to just tap the yolk thread or would that make the yoke weaker? Normally i would just re-thread but with that being an importnat part i figured i would ask :dontknow:

 

[ZCx]

ya can chase/clean the threads, new bolts & a bit of loctite

heli-coil all bolt holes, fresh bolts & a bit of loctite

or go thru the procedure of replacin with new yoke

:rock:

 

[Troy's QC SRT]

ya can chase/clean the threads, new bolts & a bit of loctite

heli-coil all bolt holes, fresh bolts & a bit of loctite

or go thru the procedure of replacin with new yoke

:rock:

correct me if im wrong but the yoke goes through the diff and to replace it you have to crack open the diff and remove everything or do you just remove the big bolt in the center of the yoke and it comes off?

 

[ZCx]

maybe.

i'm more worried bout the crush sleeve & pinon bearin preload

sure someone will chime in

 

[Troy's QC SRT]

i was actually lokoing into having the yoke upgraded to one that uses straps instead of clamps on the yoke like how they have in off-roading trucks.....

but option A worked fine....only like one thread is messed up after threading the original oem bolts through. The driveline shop sold me a new yoke clamp kit and i guess my yoke didn't like there hardware! not to mention that the new yoke clamps doesn't fit over the new U-joints like the old clamps do... tomorrow im going to the dealer to order new splicer yoke clamps and bolts!

 

[FATJACK]

maybe.

i'm more worried bout the crush sleeve & pinon bearin preload

sure someone will chime in

I don't think the Dana 60 uses crush sleeves.

 

[BLWNSRT]

You can replace the yoke:

Take a chisel mark the yoke nut and the pinion to establish a point of reference.

Count the number of threads exposed with the nut on ( example 3 threads)

Have new yoke and seal ready

Remove nut using impact gun.

You will need a pulled sometimes a harmonic Balencer puller will work. Pull the yoke off the pinion.

Take a flat head screwdriver, chisel, or seal remover and remove the seal. ) there will be loss of gear oil here so a drain bucket is needed.

Put a little grease on the back of the seal to keep the spring from falling out of the seal also a little on the riding surface.

Tap seal into place carefully not to damage it if you have a bi socket or seal driver set use that.

Take the new yoke put some rtv silicone on the spines on the end that the seal rides on ( prevents oil from seeping through spines causing you to think you have a pinion seal leak)

Apply read loctite to the pinion threads and to the pinion nut slide yoke onto the pinion.

Put the washer ( if separate from nut ) on tighten the retaining nut to line up your 2 chisel marks. Spin yoke a few times then tighten just a 1/16 to 1/8 more than your mark.

Done.

This is how I've been doing pinion seals on vehicles for a long time there may be other ways others do it this is what I prefer.

Any questions just PM me