ran the 1/8 th last night and the best i could come up with was 8.4 spinning down the track man i want traction!!!!advice needed please help:burnout: :burnout: :burnout: :burnout: :burnout: :burnout: :burnout:
TIPS AND TRICKS NEEDED PLEASE
- Thread starter TUGBOAT TRASH
- Start date
mmmmtorque
Full Access Member
Trade it in on a Prius 
Other picking up a set of DR's, Caltracs and or modding for slicks.....
Drop the rear tire pressure to around 22lbs.
Launch from idle
Dont speed shift to second if the track is cold.
Hope for better track prep :dontknow:
Other picking up a set of DR's, Caltracs and or modding for slicks.....
Drop the rear tire pressure to around 22lbs.
Launch from idle
Dont speed shift to second if the track is cold.
Hope for better track prep :dontknow:
Not very good at this stuff, but this is a solution provided to the Mopars of Utah on kind of the same question. Barry Conner works at a Drag Strip and has helped a bunch of us with his knowledge and resources. Here's an article written by Brain Uccello posted by Barry. His answer to spinning the tires I highlighted. I realize he's talking about cars, but the facts still apply.
So,
For what its worth....
Here’s a good article for the newbie or seasoned racer. Every once in a while I find another of Brian Uccello’s articles, just go with what he has stated. Good article.
______________________________________________
Understanding the Tree
By: Brian Uccello
The difference between Winning or losing most drag races between similar cars will be determined by three factors:
1) The preparation of your Mopar Muscle Car
2) Your reaction Time
3) Your 60’ interval time
Understand the “Christmas Tree”
“Christmas Tree”: The Tree, as it is often called, is the electronic starting device between the lanes on the starting line. It displays a calibrated-light countdown for each driver.
Pre-Staged: When a driver is approximately seven inches behind the starting line, the top-most small yellow light atop his or her side of the “Christmas Tree” will begin glowing.
Staged: A driver is staged when the front wheels of the car are right in the starting line and both small yellow lights, Pre-Stage and Staged lights in his or her side of the Christmas Tree are glowing. Once a driver is staged, the starter may begin the calibration counter at any time.
”Helpful hints”
Tire Pressure: Inflate your front tires to the maximum allowed by the manufacture. This will reduce rolling resistance allowing you to accelerate faster. Your rear tires should be adjusted to the highest tire pressure that allows a full contact patch with the track. You can test this by practicing Burnouts before going to the track. Practice, practice, practice…
Burnout: Spinning the rear tires in water to heat and clean them prior to a run for better traction. A Water Burnout should precede every run. When using treaded street tires, Do Not drive through the water, drive around the water and Back into the water with just your rear tires! Before starting you burnout, roll Forward out of the water. Why go through all this trouble?
1) Treaded street tires will “carry” the water between the treads if you drive through it. Your front tires will be dropping water right in front of your rear tires severely limiting your traction.
2) Rolling forward out of the water will eliminate the possibility of you throwing into your wheel wells to have it fall back down on your nice hot sticky tires. Dropping water on your rear tires severely limiting your traction.
3) Use the water because it will be much easier to break your tires loose greatly limiting the possibility of damaging driveline parts.
“Pre-Stage” & “Stage” with your Front tires! Believe it or not, some first timers roll right through the “Pre-Sage” & “Stage” lights and stage with there rear tires. Look like a “Pro” and roll in with your front tires!
Do Not Spin your tires when you leave: Our Mopar Muscle cars are quite capable of spinning the tires from a standing start putting on quite a show for the people in the bleachers watching the action. This may look cool on the street, but will ruin your chance of winning a drag race! You must practice and understand how much throttle you can feed your car during the first 60’ interval time. The Only way you are going to know this is to Practice, practice, practice…
Launch routine: Weather you have an automatic transmission or a manual transmission, you must have a consistent launch routine. This routine may vary from track to track depending upon the traction available on the starting line and the weather. Example: After I perform my Water Burnout, I put my automatic transmission in neutral and clear the carburetor by revving the engine a few times to make sure fuel hasn’t slouched into the secondaries. I then bring my Rpm up to 1500Rpm and ease into the “Pre-Stage” & “Stage” lights. Now I’m ready to go!
“Pre-Stage” & “Stage” ignoring the guy in the other lane: Believe me, you have enough to think about with your own car without having to worry about what the other guys is doing. Develop your routine and stick to it! Practice, practice, practice…
Example of “Christmas Tree”
Pre-Staged light O----||----O
||
Staged light O----||----O
||
Amber #1 O----||----O
||
Amber #2 O----||----O
||
Amber #3 O----||----O
||
Green O----||----O
||
Red O----||----O
Full tree: Used in Competition, Super Stock, Stock, and Bracket Racing, for which a handicap starting system is used to equalize the competition. The three amber bulbs on the “Christmas Tree” flash consecutively five-tenths of a second apart, followed by the green starting light. A perfect reaction time on a full tree is .500.
Pro Tree: Used in Top Fuel, Funny Car, Pro Stock, Pro Stock Truck, Pro Stock Bike, Federal-Mogul Dragster, Federal-Mogul Funny Car, Super Comp, Super Gas, and Super Street, which feature heads-up competition. All three large amber lights on the “Christmas Tree” flash simultaneously, followed four-tenths of a second later by the green starting light. A perfect reaction time on a Pro Tree is .400.
Instant Green Tree: Used in simulated Street Racing at some drag strips across the country. NO amber lights are used on the “Christmas Tree”, instead, the “Christmas Tree” flashes from the
Staged position to a green starting light. A perfect reaction time on an Instant Green Tree is .500.
Reaction time: The time it takes a driver to react to the green starting light on the “Christmas Tree”, measured in thousandths of a second. The reaction-time counter begins when the last amber light flashes on the Tree and stops when the vehicle clears the stage beam.
Foul start: A foul start is indicated by a red light on the “Christmas Tree” when a car has left the starting line before receiving the green light, or starting signal.
Deep staged: A driver is deep staged when, after staging, he or she rolls a few inches farther, which causes the pre-stage lights to go out. In that position, the driver is closer to the finish line but dangerously close to a foul start. This technique is often used to get a better reaction time.
Sixty-foot time: The time it takes a vehicle to cover the first 60 feet of the racetrack. It is the most accurate measure of the launch from the starting line and in most cases determines how quick the rest of the run will be.
Interval timers: Part of a secondary timing system that records elapsed times, primarily for the racer's benefit, at 60’, 330’, 660’, and 1000 feet.
Speed trap: The final 66 feet to the finish line where speed is recorded.
Elapsed time: An elapsed time, or ET, is the time it takes a vehicle to travel from the starting line to the finish line.
Hole shot: Reacting quicker to the “Christmas Tree” starting lights to win a race against a quicker opponent.
Eliminations: After qualifying, vehicles race two at a time, resulting in one winner and one loser. Winners continue to race in tournament-style competition until one remains.
Breakout: Used only in handicap racing, the term "breakout" refers to a contestant running quicker that he or she "dialed" his or her vehicle (predicted how quick it would run). Unless the opponent commits a more serious infringement (e.g. red lights, crosses the centerline, or fails a post-race inspection), the driver who breaks out loses. If both drivers break out, the one who runs closest to his or her dial is the winner.
Reaction Times
One of the most important aspects of drag racing is your reaction time. There are actually a number of factors that affect reaction times, the time it takes you to react, the car’s reaction time, and rollout. Each of these need to be understood in order to get good, consistent reaction times. When you take all of these factors into account, it’s easy to see why you need to leave when the last yellow light begins to glow, you can’t wait until the green light comes on to leave the starting line. If you wait for the green light, you will surely lose the race.
Your reaction time is the time that it takes for your eye to see the light, your brain to react and then to hit the gas pedal or release the clutch. Studies show that most people have a reaction time of around .200 - .250 seconds.
Your car also takes a certain amount of time to react. The car has to release the brakes, rev the motor a bit, and move the suspension around a bit before it starts moving forward. Again, this takes a little bit of time. Your vehicle’s reaction time is difficult to predict because there are so many factors, but there are things that you can do to speed it up or slow it down in order to fine tune it.
The next thing is rollout. Rollout is the distance that the car must travel in order to actually break the starting beam, or more accurately, to un-break the starting beam. When you get your car staged, your front tire is blocking the starting beam. The ET timer actually starts when your tire clears the beam.
When you shallow stage (Just barely light the stage light) your ET will improve because you get more of a rolling start before you break the starting beam. Conversely, when you deep stage your ET will slow down because you are closer to the starting line and get less of a rolling start before breaking the starting beam. Make sense?
So, putting this altogether you can see why you need to leave off of the last yellow light in order to get close to the perfect .500 reaction time. Practice, practice, practice…
Why is the 60' ET so important?
If you've done any drag racing, you've probably noticed that racers seem obsessed with 60' ET's. There's a good reason for this. The first 60' of the track set the stage for the rest of the run and has a huge effect on the ability to "run the numbers" when racing. Many beginning racers seem more concerned with top end mph thinking that if the car goes faster at the end of the track they'll pick up ET. However, top end speed isn't really as important as it first appears.
Here's why – let’s measure the percentage of time spent traveling the first 60' & 330’ interval times and compare them to the last 320' from the 1000’ interval time to the end of the ¼ mile, 1320’. Let’s look at one of my time slips where my car ran 13.499 @ 102.25Mph in the 1/4 mile.
60' = 2.031 or a total of 15% of the total ET
330' = 5.730 or a total of 42% of the total ET
So far, I’ve required 57% of my total ET to travel that first 25% of the track!
Now let’s look at the 1000' to 1320' time compared to the 330' ET:
1000’ = 11.304
1320’ = 13.499
To get from the 1000' timer to the 1320' timer it took 2.195 seconds (13.499 1320' ET - 11.304 1000' ET) for a total of 16% of the total time. As you can see, I spent 16% of my total ET to travel the last 25% of the distance!
As you can see, it takes almost as much *time* to travel the last 320' as it does the first 60' of the track and it takes 2.6 times longer to travel the first 330 feet as it does to travel the last 320' feet!
This is why you gain ET by concentrating on the first few feet of the track. You spend a proportionately greater deal of *time* in the first few feet and since ET is *time* it's easier to gain ET by concentrating on the launch, sticky tires.
__________________
Barry Conner
1970 Dodge Challenger RT
NHRA / IHRA / NMCA - 504B
http://banditododge.tripod.com & http://coloradoracingmemories.com
"Old School Racing & Other Remembrances"
Thanks
There, one post out of 3000 that isn't just a waste of space....Thanks Barry
So,
For what its worth....
Here’s a good article for the newbie or seasoned racer. Every once in a while I find another of Brian Uccello’s articles, just go with what he has stated. Good article.
______________________________________________
Understanding the Tree
By: Brian Uccello
The difference between Winning or losing most drag races between similar cars will be determined by three factors:
1) The preparation of your Mopar Muscle Car
2) Your reaction Time
3) Your 60’ interval time
Understand the “Christmas Tree”
“Christmas Tree”: The Tree, as it is often called, is the electronic starting device between the lanes on the starting line. It displays a calibrated-light countdown for each driver.
Pre-Staged: When a driver is approximately seven inches behind the starting line, the top-most small yellow light atop his or her side of the “Christmas Tree” will begin glowing.
Staged: A driver is staged when the front wheels of the car are right in the starting line and both small yellow lights, Pre-Stage and Staged lights in his or her side of the Christmas Tree are glowing. Once a driver is staged, the starter may begin the calibration counter at any time.
”Helpful hints”
Tire Pressure: Inflate your front tires to the maximum allowed by the manufacture. This will reduce rolling resistance allowing you to accelerate faster. Your rear tires should be adjusted to the highest tire pressure that allows a full contact patch with the track. You can test this by practicing Burnouts before going to the track. Practice, practice, practice…
Burnout: Spinning the rear tires in water to heat and clean them prior to a run for better traction. A Water Burnout should precede every run. When using treaded street tires, Do Not drive through the water, drive around the water and Back into the water with just your rear tires! Before starting you burnout, roll Forward out of the water. Why go through all this trouble?
1) Treaded street tires will “carry” the water between the treads if you drive through it. Your front tires will be dropping water right in front of your rear tires severely limiting your traction.
2) Rolling forward out of the water will eliminate the possibility of you throwing into your wheel wells to have it fall back down on your nice hot sticky tires. Dropping water on your rear tires severely limiting your traction.
3) Use the water because it will be much easier to break your tires loose greatly limiting the possibility of damaging driveline parts.
“Pre-Stage” & “Stage” with your Front tires! Believe it or not, some first timers roll right through the “Pre-Sage” & “Stage” lights and stage with there rear tires. Look like a “Pro” and roll in with your front tires!
Do Not Spin your tires when you leave: Our Mopar Muscle cars are quite capable of spinning the tires from a standing start putting on quite a show for the people in the bleachers watching the action. This may look cool on the street, but will ruin your chance of winning a drag race! You must practice and understand how much throttle you can feed your car during the first 60’ interval time. The Only way you are going to know this is to Practice, practice, practice…
Launch routine: Weather you have an automatic transmission or a manual transmission, you must have a consistent launch routine. This routine may vary from track to track depending upon the traction available on the starting line and the weather. Example: After I perform my Water Burnout, I put my automatic transmission in neutral and clear the carburetor by revving the engine a few times to make sure fuel hasn’t slouched into the secondaries. I then bring my Rpm up to 1500Rpm and ease into the “Pre-Stage” & “Stage” lights. Now I’m ready to go!
“Pre-Stage” & “Stage” ignoring the guy in the other lane: Believe me, you have enough to think about with your own car without having to worry about what the other guys is doing. Develop your routine and stick to it! Practice, practice, practice…
Example of “Christmas Tree”
Pre-Staged light O----||----O
||
Staged light O----||----O
||
Amber #1 O----||----O
||
Amber #2 O----||----O
||
Amber #3 O----||----O
||
Green O----||----O
||
Red O----||----O
Full tree: Used in Competition, Super Stock, Stock, and Bracket Racing, for which a handicap starting system is used to equalize the competition. The three amber bulbs on the “Christmas Tree” flash consecutively five-tenths of a second apart, followed by the green starting light. A perfect reaction time on a full tree is .500.
Pro Tree: Used in Top Fuel, Funny Car, Pro Stock, Pro Stock Truck, Pro Stock Bike, Federal-Mogul Dragster, Federal-Mogul Funny Car, Super Comp, Super Gas, and Super Street, which feature heads-up competition. All three large amber lights on the “Christmas Tree” flash simultaneously, followed four-tenths of a second later by the green starting light. A perfect reaction time on a Pro Tree is .400.
Instant Green Tree: Used in simulated Street Racing at some drag strips across the country. NO amber lights are used on the “Christmas Tree”, instead, the “Christmas Tree” flashes from the
Staged position to a green starting light. A perfect reaction time on an Instant Green Tree is .500.
Reaction time: The time it takes a driver to react to the green starting light on the “Christmas Tree”, measured in thousandths of a second. The reaction-time counter begins when the last amber light flashes on the Tree and stops when the vehicle clears the stage beam.
Foul start: A foul start is indicated by a red light on the “Christmas Tree” when a car has left the starting line before receiving the green light, or starting signal.
Deep staged: A driver is deep staged when, after staging, he or she rolls a few inches farther, which causes the pre-stage lights to go out. In that position, the driver is closer to the finish line but dangerously close to a foul start. This technique is often used to get a better reaction time.
Sixty-foot time: The time it takes a vehicle to cover the first 60 feet of the racetrack. It is the most accurate measure of the launch from the starting line and in most cases determines how quick the rest of the run will be.
Interval timers: Part of a secondary timing system that records elapsed times, primarily for the racer's benefit, at 60’, 330’, 660’, and 1000 feet.
Speed trap: The final 66 feet to the finish line where speed is recorded.
Elapsed time: An elapsed time, or ET, is the time it takes a vehicle to travel from the starting line to the finish line.
Hole shot: Reacting quicker to the “Christmas Tree” starting lights to win a race against a quicker opponent.
Eliminations: After qualifying, vehicles race two at a time, resulting in one winner and one loser. Winners continue to race in tournament-style competition until one remains.
Breakout: Used only in handicap racing, the term "breakout" refers to a contestant running quicker that he or she "dialed" his or her vehicle (predicted how quick it would run). Unless the opponent commits a more serious infringement (e.g. red lights, crosses the centerline, or fails a post-race inspection), the driver who breaks out loses. If both drivers break out, the one who runs closest to his or her dial is the winner.
Reaction Times
One of the most important aspects of drag racing is your reaction time. There are actually a number of factors that affect reaction times, the time it takes you to react, the car’s reaction time, and rollout. Each of these need to be understood in order to get good, consistent reaction times. When you take all of these factors into account, it’s easy to see why you need to leave when the last yellow light begins to glow, you can’t wait until the green light comes on to leave the starting line. If you wait for the green light, you will surely lose the race.
Your reaction time is the time that it takes for your eye to see the light, your brain to react and then to hit the gas pedal or release the clutch. Studies show that most people have a reaction time of around .200 - .250 seconds.
Your car also takes a certain amount of time to react. The car has to release the brakes, rev the motor a bit, and move the suspension around a bit before it starts moving forward. Again, this takes a little bit of time. Your vehicle’s reaction time is difficult to predict because there are so many factors, but there are things that you can do to speed it up or slow it down in order to fine tune it.
The next thing is rollout. Rollout is the distance that the car must travel in order to actually break the starting beam, or more accurately, to un-break the starting beam. When you get your car staged, your front tire is blocking the starting beam. The ET timer actually starts when your tire clears the beam.
When you shallow stage (Just barely light the stage light) your ET will improve because you get more of a rolling start before you break the starting beam. Conversely, when you deep stage your ET will slow down because you are closer to the starting line and get less of a rolling start before breaking the starting beam. Make sense?
So, putting this altogether you can see why you need to leave off of the last yellow light in order to get close to the perfect .500 reaction time. Practice, practice, practice…
Why is the 60' ET so important?
If you've done any drag racing, you've probably noticed that racers seem obsessed with 60' ET's. There's a good reason for this. The first 60' of the track set the stage for the rest of the run and has a huge effect on the ability to "run the numbers" when racing. Many beginning racers seem more concerned with top end mph thinking that if the car goes faster at the end of the track they'll pick up ET. However, top end speed isn't really as important as it first appears.
Here's why – let’s measure the percentage of time spent traveling the first 60' & 330’ interval times and compare them to the last 320' from the 1000’ interval time to the end of the ¼ mile, 1320’. Let’s look at one of my time slips where my car ran 13.499 @ 102.25Mph in the 1/4 mile.
60' = 2.031 or a total of 15% of the total ET
330' = 5.730 or a total of 42% of the total ET
So far, I’ve required 57% of my total ET to travel that first 25% of the track!
Now let’s look at the 1000' to 1320' time compared to the 330' ET:
1000’ = 11.304
1320’ = 13.499
To get from the 1000' timer to the 1320' timer it took 2.195 seconds (13.499 1320' ET - 11.304 1000' ET) for a total of 16% of the total time. As you can see, I spent 16% of my total ET to travel the last 25% of the distance!
As you can see, it takes almost as much *time* to travel the last 320' as it does the first 60' of the track and it takes 2.6 times longer to travel the first 330 feet as it does to travel the last 320' feet!
This is why you gain ET by concentrating on the first few feet of the track. You spend a proportionately greater deal of *time* in the first few feet and since ET is *time* it's easier to gain ET by concentrating on the launch, sticky tires.
__________________
Barry Conner
1970 Dodge Challenger RT
NHRA / IHRA / NMCA - 504B
http://banditododge.tripod.com & http://coloradoracingmemories.com
"Old School Racing & Other Remembrances"
Thanks
There, one post out of 3000 that isn't just a waste of space....Thanks Barry
thanks for the help guys appreciate it.keep it coming i am listening.i got to practice.........i made about 36 runs if i could only put to the ground of what we have it would be frickin great.although i was told by some of the seasoned veterans that the track wasnt prepped well but it was just set up for test and tune and the gambler's race.what would be my trap speed if i was runnin high 7's is that pretty much what the rest of you guys are runnin or what?again thanks for your help and keep it coming
8.4 seconds in the 1/8 mile really doesn't sound too bad for the mods you have listed?:dontknow:TUGBOAT TRASH said:
For the time in my sig, my 1/8th mile time was 8.25.
The only advice I can offer for stock tires is lower air pressure to ~22psi. Then maybe put a hundred pounds in the rear of the bed and secure it with a cargo bar. (Bag of sand or something)
thanks alot will tryHamrhead said:
:rock:
Marc T
Full Access Member
Yep, I got to agree with Hamrhead!!
I was only able to pull out a 9:25 at 80 MPH in the 1/8th. And that was spinning through 2nd and into third!!
I think you did OK!!
I was only able to pull out a 9:25 at 80 MPH in the 1/8th. And that was spinning through 2nd and into third!!
I think you did OK!!
:burnout: :rock: thanksMarc T said:
Nowwhat
Full Access Member
when you get to the track (in the pits) spray Simple Green on the rears....let sit for minute then wipe off....amazing how sticky the tires are without all the grime from everyday driving...
AND DRIVE AROUND THE WATER BOX.....
AND DRIVE AROUND THE WATER BOX.....
And never ever ever slip the clutch!!! Its a $2k error!
Have fun too however fast you go!
patrick
Have fun too however fast you go!
patrick
mmmmtorque
Full Access Member
Nowwhat said:
Yup, tried the Simple Green trick
It does help and is just good track etiquette anyway 
jrgnd
Full Access Member
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TUGBOAT TRASH said:
In one track visit? Please tell me that you change your oil....
THANKS FOR THE ADVICE fellas keep it coming ,and jgrnd im changing it tommorrow thanks for looking out .simple green heh ?
Can someone expound on the simple green and driving around the water box???? I have a stock QC and want to get the best time. Are you saying to use the simple green, air the rears to 22, and drive around the box??? Is that avoid the box completely, or then back in and do a burn-out? If I do a burn-out, do I pull a bit forward just stand in the gas, or do I need to hold the brake??? I read the entire post, but I don't have a racing background and have NEVER been to a track other than NASCAR. Dumbing this down would really help. Also, when sitting at the line, hold the brake while hitting 1500rpm, and then drop the hammer at the last yellow??? :rock:
Thanks in advance for any help. Please keep any answers simple stupid
Thanks in advance for any help. Please keep any answers simple stupid
Rice Eater
Full Access Member
Big Perm said:Can someone expound on the simple green and driving around the water box???? I have a stock QC and want to get the best time. Are you saying to use the simple green, air the rears to 22, and drive around the box??? Is that avoid the box completely, or then back in and do a burn-out? If I do a burn-out, do I pull a bit forward just stand in the gas, or do I need to hold the brake??? I read the entire post, but I don't have a racing background and have NEVER been to a track other than NASCAR. Dumbing this down would really help. Also, when sitting at the line, hold the brake while hitting 1500rpm, and then drop the hammer at the last yellow??? :rock:
Thanks in advance for any help. Please keep any answers simple stupid
You want to avoid the water box if you do not have slicks or DR's.....drive around it and then do a quick burnout to clean off the tires....you can power brake it if you want to do a smoke show but its not gonna help unless you have slicks. the single best mod you can do for running at the track is get a set of 17" american eagle wheels ($130 each) and the big dawg M&H drag radials 390's this will drop your quarter mile times more than most power adders unless you are talkin nitrous!
Big Perm said:Can someone expound on the simple green and driving around the water box???? I have a stock QC and want to get the best time. Are you saying to use the simple green, air the rears to 22, and drive around the box??? Is that avoid the box completely, or then back in and do a burn-out? If I do a burn-out, do I pull a bit forward just stand in the gas, or do I need to hold the brake??? I read the entire post, but I don't have a racing background and have NEVER been to a track other than NASCAR. Dumbing this down would really help. Also, when sitting at the line, hold the brake while hitting 1500rpm, and then drop the hammer at the last yellow??? :rock:
Thanks in advance for any help. Please keep any answers simple stupid
Rears to 22, front to 40. If you can avoid the box then do so. If not then try to drive around as best as you can. Once clear put one foot on the brake and one on the gas. Just do a small burnout. My first time to the track I had a spotter helping me out. He would tell me when to spin the tires and when to stop. If you have to go through the box then I would start my burn out just after the box and as the tires are spinning let off the brake to drive forward some. Then let off the gas. Watch what other people on street tires are doing and position your side mirror so that you can see your tires. They will start spinning sooner then you think.
Now that your burnout is done start creeping up to the line. I 2 foot it. I roll slowly up to trip the first light (pre stage). Then I wait for the other guy to trip his. Then I go just a little foward until the second light is lit (staged). Then I rev up to 1500-2000 RPM's. You will need to adjust your RPM's by the track conditions, weather, etc. I have launched in the 3000 RPM range before. Just get a feel for what works best on that day. So now that you are staged and reving your engine, watch the lights. Last yellow let off the brake and roll into the throttle. If you just slam it to the floor you will get a lot of tire spin. You have to find the balance of brake coming off and gas pedal going down. Not enough and the truck will shift too early and then down shift when you go WOT.
Try to go to a track rental or test and tune. Go when there is no one in the stands and you can make your mistakes. I went to a L track rental for my first time. I watched and listened and learned a lot. Plus all the ford guys were a great help to me. Hope this helps!!
Smoke
silverqc
Full Access Member
tow mode worked better for me:burnout:
Perm!
1. get in line
2. pull up and around water box when told to do so
3. do small burnout
4. pull up to staging light untill both lights come on.
5. dpress brake hard and floor the gas till she starts spining and back off till it quits.
6. Wait for yellows to start comming down
7. Sit beer in cup holder , pizza in passenger seat, at the green let off brake and nail it,
8. When you hit second turn volume up on "I cant drive 55" song, and kick the A/c on a tad higher :burnout: :burnout: :burnout: :burnout:
1. get in line
2. pull up and around water box when told to do so
3. do small burnout
4. pull up to staging light untill both lights come on.
5. dpress brake hard and floor the gas till she starts spining and back off till it quits.
6. Wait for yellows to start comming down
7. Sit beer in cup holder , pizza in passenger seat, at the green let off brake and nail it,
8. When you hit second turn volume up on "I cant drive 55" song, and kick the A/c on a tad higher
:burnout: :burnout: :burnout: :burnout:Stinker said:Perm!
7. Sit beer in cup holder , pizza in passenger seat, at the green let off brake and nail it,
8. When you hit second turn volume up on "I cant drive 55" song, and kick the A/c on a tad higher
LMMFAO :burnout: :burnout:
You're not too far from the truth.....and yes, I actually have that CD....I think it was called VOA, which isn't too far from VTCOA
Another good song I used for tough truck competitions was by....damn, can't remember the group, but the start of the chorus was, "she's going the distance, she's going for speed...."
Rednecks unite
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