Torque Converter and GM Solenoid

Fahrenheit

Fahrenheit

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Ok, over the weekend I went to the track and my eyes are now wide open. I raced a 6.0 GMC Quad Cab with a Magnacharger. He was running on 24" rims and tires. I had my drag radials on this evening, when we took off at the light he left me in the dust, I reeled him in after the 60' and put 2 lenghts on him by the end of the 1/4 mile. I looked at the slip, and he had a 1.88 60' :confused: on 24's!!! I caught up with him later and shook his hand and asked what else he had done to beat me off the line so bad. He said he had a 3500 stall torque converter, no mention of gears, but said he had it set up for the 1/8 mile. The guy was really cool, and even if he was hiding something else, I still won, and Im still impressed with the jump he got on me...... NOW...


I have talked with OSO recently about torque converters, and I wanted to see who out there has changed theirs out?.....to what stall?... and did you like it? Also I entered a bracket racing competition and I noticed my truck BOGGED/STALLED when shifting between 2-3 gear, and a few times before, but not as hard as that one time, and will the GM Solenoid fix that problem. I know I need to change the fluids in the tranny and rear end soon, I have 38,000 miles on the truck, I bought it when it had 24,000 on it. Any help and suggestions for me to pick up a few tenths on my 60' and shifting issues would be greatly appreciated.:rock:
 
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essentially when it comes to drag racing automatics have an advantage....IMO its because you need torque to get you moving asap...
Torque converters essentially multiply torque...dont know how to explain any better then that
 
I've got a 2600 from Suncoast. A little looser than stock, but still very streetable. A 3500 would be tough to drive around I'd say. If you want a drag truck, cool, but if you drive it on the street, I think that would be spend a lot of time just cooking the fluid. Somewhere in the middle may be better.

For the 2-3 shift, I'm not sure of the gov solenoid comes into play. I know it does for the 1-2, not sure on the 2-3. And the symptom it fixes is a non-shift so you're not bouncing against a rev limiter.
 
HaroldD said:
I've got a 2600 from Suncoast. A little looser than stock, but still very streetable.
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What do you mean by looser? You have to forgive me, this is the first automatic performance vehicle I have ever owned, so I dont know anything about them. And what is ours stock? How much was it, if you dont mind?
 
Better analogy from another QC guy with mad auto racing exp. It's like a clutch in a race where you can be in the power band at the line by gassing until just before the tires break. ( I think 2500 would be ideal) ours may be 1500 ish before it's locking up. For now give yours some room to flash. Stage at 1200 and mash vs. Locked up and mashing. We need a 2000-2500 stall unless racing. Also helps a ton towing by keeping the engine it it's band all the time. Two major accompanying mods would be the GM kit, bigger tranny cooler( if neccessary?) and the deep gears luckily we have already.
 
Thanks guys, I think the converter and soleniod will be in the works next.
 
VENOMOUS1 said:
Better analogy from another QC guy with mad auto racing exp. It's like a clutch in a race where you can be in the power band at the line by gassing until just before the tires break. ( I think 2500 would be ideal) ours may be 1500 ish before it's locking up. For now give yours some room to flash. Stage at 1200 and mash vs. Locked up and mashing. We need a 2000-2500 stall unless racing. Also helps a ton towing by keeping the engine it it's band all the time. Two major accompanying mods would be the GM kit, bigger tranny cooler( if neccessary?) and the deep gears luckily we have already.
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Sorry to hijack this thread, but I've been staging at around 2000-2500 and been getting pretty crappy 60ft times and 1/8th mile ET's.(2.3 60ft and 9.1 1/8th mile ET's). This is all with drag radials. Do you think my 60ft times would improve if I stage at 1200 rpm? I have very little experinece racing automatics, so please excuse my ignorance. I guess I thought it would be better to launch at a higher rpm. What do you mean by flash? I'm assuming when you refer to locked up and mashing(which I think is the mistake I've been making), you mean staging at the line just when you feel the rear end squat a little? Sorry for the dumb questions, but I need help with this.
 
I never stall it up, I have always foot brake'd it and done well. Every time I try to stall it up.....I spin out of the hole, so I quit doing it. My best is a 1.98 60' and I am a constant 8.4 in the 1/8th

My goal is to get a 12 sec 1/4 mile (high 12 is all im asking) and if I can improve my 60' that I get now, the 12's are mine.
 
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Fahrenheit said:
I never stall it up, I have always foot brake'd it and done well. Every time I try to stall it up.....I spin out of the hole, so I quit doing it. My best is a 1.98 60' and I am a constant 8.4 in the 1/8th

My goal is to get a 12 sec 1/4 mile (high 12 is all im asking) and if I can improve my 60' that I get now, the 12's are mine.
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Hey bud. Bear with me, I may be using the wrong terminolgy. This is what I do, please tell me what I'm doing wrong. I do my burnout, I pull up to the line and stage, I put my foot on the brake and rev the engine to around 2000-2500 rpm and hold it there, when the last yellow comes on, I release the brake and mash the gas. After that the rest is easy. Just hold the gas pedal down and don't let up until I cross the line. So, my problem has to be in my launching technique. And the tires are hooking good from what I can tell. This results in the above mentioned 60ft times and et's. HELP!!
 
my truck went to the shop twice to replace solenoid , once every 10,000 miles.. then it started to slip from 1-2 and 2-3, then they rebuilt tranny new kick band, new converter, etc....... now it runs like a bat out of hell , even shifts better than when i first drove it !!!!! not sure what type or brand names used, but i will try to find out from the dealership that did the work.... :) :)
 
SANTEEN said:
Hey bud. Bear with me, I may be using the wrong terminolgy. This is what I do, please tell me what I'm doing wrong. I do my burnout, I pull up to the line and stage, I put my foot on the brake and rev the engine to around 2000-2500 rpm and hold it there, when the last yellow comes on, I release the brake and mash the gas. This results in the above mentioned 60ft times and et's. HELP!!
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OK, next time you go to the track.....DONT DO ANY OF THAT. Do your burnout, Pull up to the line.....Left foot on the brake, Right foot covering the gas. On the Third yellow light, let off the brake and mash the gas......you should get a NO WORSE than 2.1 60' and 8.6 1/8 mile around 82-84 mph.
 
Santeen, I just looked at your mods......I know your in Florida, lots of humidity like here in Texas. You should be able to match or beat my best 1/4 mile with your mods. I have also learned that our trucks hate heat, and letting it cool off before running it again helps big to the tune of 2-3 tenths off the 1/4 mile. Saturday night my first run hot off the road and pulling my trailer was a 13.3 @ 103......I let it cool off I ran a 13.13 @ 105

If you ask James (OSO) he doesnt like to do this, he likes to run 13 times in an hour and try to get the same times. He's not trying to be a track star, he wants to be a street star on the track....LOL
 
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spin

With all that said ,is the truck spinning when you leave the line?
 
Fahrenheit said:
OK, next time you go to the track.....DONT DO ANY OF THAT. Do your burnout, Pull up to the line.....Left foot on the brake, Right foot covering the gas. On the Third yellow light, let off the brake and mash the gas......you should get a NO WORSE than 2.1 60' and 8.6 1/8 mile around 82-84 mph.
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Thanks bud for explaining it to me in terms I can understand. :D I'll try it in Panama this weekend.:rock:
 
Fahrenheit said:
Santeen, I just looked at your mods......I know your in Florida, lots of humidity like here in Texas. You should be able to match or beat my best 1/4 mile with your mods. I have also learned that our trucks hate heat, and letting it cool off before running it again helps big to the tune of 2-3 tenths off the 1/4 mile. Saturday night my first run hot off the road and pulling my trailer was a 13.3 @ 103......I let it cool off I ran a 13.13 @ 105
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Your sig got me even more pissed. I didn't even come close to those numbers, with almost identical mods.:confused: :mad:
 
Hucksrt10 said:
With all that said ,is the truck spinning when you leave the line?
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From what I can tell and what my video's show, no spin off the line.
 
DR's

What size are your drag radials ? how tall? Could probably get a shorter tire to increase torque multiplication at the launch.
 
old thread hijacker:D cuz if your running it up around 2500rpms and its not bogging then it should be launching pretty good unless your spinning or losing power
 
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