Track Time Hypothetical Question

Well this thread hit the shitter in a hurry! My fault I think...sorry, again.
 
Not hardly bro! There is no real answer except hp and traction, doing the calculations you need about 1000rwhp to do low 10's with good traction.

You really cant use the calculator on our trucks because of the aerodinamics of the truck, nothing but bricks, so something that takes say 800hp to go 10's we will need 1000hp

You da man Prof:rock:
 
You could be in the low 10's with 800hp at the rear wheels. Just won't be street worthy. Throw in a real tranny/converter and wham, you're in the low 10's
 
The block twist issue is solved by using a mid, and front plate instead of motor and trans mounts. This is what I am doing with the silver truck. The lightweight fabricated trans mount will just index the rear of the TH400, and mount one point of the front driveshaft loop.

The front plate can be done beacuse I am dry sumped and there will be no oil pump in the timing cover.

There are about 966 reasons it is taking me so long for my build as I have addressed most of these issues over the last 2 years.
 
Yup, all comes down to make a street truck vs a race truck. Dad has always said you either have one or the other (race car or street car), trying to do both causes problems.
 
i dont care what stall is used. me and my dad built my first truck. a 79 f150 rc sb 4x4 and it had a tci torque converter with a 3600 stall and it was very good on the street
 
A 10 second street truck can be done, with the technology available today.

Not the easiest thing to acomplish but it can be done.

I saw Blake run 11.30's supercharged no NOS with NO suspension to help things. The first time at the track. Pretty impressive to me anyway.

Put some suspension under his truck and you have a 10 second street truck.
 
I admit my ignorance but once the truck reaches that stage, at what point exactly would it be considered not streetable? What defines this?
 
My truck would be a 10 second Truck...................WITH JACK DRIVING IT! I have a long way to go with my driving skills.....11.3 was just point it straight and stomp it....If I can get it to hook so that I can actually use the Nitrous...IM there.
 
There is a very big difference in running 10.90 and 10.10. My truck is very streetable and civil and I run in the high 10's. I get 14-15mpg on the interstate and it never gets over 190 degree's. However, to run in the LOW 10's, at least with my setup, would require me to do major modifications to the tranny. I had no problem hooking up. I will be curious what blake runs. When hooking, I'm curious how hard it will bog the motor. I ran the same MPH and know what I ran. I'll be curious what he does.

Don't worry blake, there isn't much to driving an auto, just don't start off in reverse :)
 
Azmal said:
I admit my ignorance but once the truck reaches that stage, at what point exactly would it be considered not streetable? What defines this?
Click to expand...

To respond to your question...most of the machines that run in these lofty numbers have transmissions that will not act in a civilized manner in traffic. Stop at a light engage a gear and the beast will hop, shake, growl and sputter, with a clank or two to boot.

Anyone in front of you will probably dirty their pants, move from neutral to drive, and you may spin your driving wheels...so have the line lock or brakes engaged at the same time...street truck is not a race truck...transmission changes gears in an impactful way in a race truck...nothing smooth and pleasant here, just hard and solid...remember your first time in a standard transmission vehicle...well if just gets worse with a race built automatic transmission.

Idle speed will be huge compared to normal...maybe 2800-3300 rpm!
 
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If the new rearend keeps the truck from spinning like crazy then it wont be a problem. You cant launch my truck and just hold the gas pedal to the floor. Its a constant battle gettin in and out of it or it will spin uncontrolably. AND FYI Mike it was started in between Drive and Neutral and it SLAMMED thru N and in to Rev.....much more fun than just starting off in old D..:D
 
I'm just glad nobody was behind you. When you're spinning, ET is affected, not your MPH. Even when you hook up, you'll run almost the same mph.
 
1Fast400 said:
I'm just glad nobody was behind you. When you're spinning, ET is affected, not your MPH. Even when you hook up, you'll run almost the same mph.
Click to expand...

Unless you drive like me...and spin thru all of the first three gears...and have to hit fourth and it bogs!:thumpdown:
 
I run a full manual automatic in my Duster, and while it is "streetable" it is not something you would want to drive in traffic every day.

Bill.
 
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