TRAIN HORNS

[Kiwi SRT10]

Yeehaa!!
Many years ago while driving OTR in the USA I found some train horns in a truck stop. I bought them and dragged them back to NZ. They first went in/under my GMC Van and were so much fun. Then they went on my truck I was driving and had good times with the trains on the railway. Eventually sold to a mate and then etc etc. Here today are my new train horns and they are going on my truck, BOOM!!!!!


I have a small air tank and a twin cylinder air compressor that sits under the middle seat. The horns will go under the truck where the OEM muffler was once upon a time.
I also have some under car LED lights to go on and be set to PURPLE!!!
Pics to follow in a few weeks.

 

[rottenronnie]

If you are mounting your Train Horns underneath your truck, let me know when you are going to try them out. I'll stand up on a hill on a cold night and point myself south-east. Because you and your truck are upside down anyway, it should be easier to hear.

 

[AMS3]

If you are mounting your Train Horns underneath your truck, let me know when you are going to try them out. I'll stand up on a hill on a cold night and point myself south-east. Because you and your truck are upside down anyway, it should be easier to hear.

LMFAO!!!! Poor Kiwi, always getting picked on for being upside down.

 

[Kiwi SRT10]

Finally Train Horns are sorted. Had issue with the solenoid so I bought a BIGGER ONE!!!
Some pics

 

[rottenronnie]

Re-route some of that compressor pressure into your Intake for a huge boost in power. Just the compressor output though, not the horn sound.

The Throttle Position Sensors on these trucks aren't overly robust and are touchy if they get wet. A new one may solve your idle issues. If not, tell everyone you just swapped to a performance cam, and most people will believe it!

The O.E.M. hoods love to drip water right onto the TPS when/if you lifted your hood when it is wet. And that water will sooner than later piss it off.

T.P.S. TESTING...TESTING...

Key-On, not required.

Remove the Connector, Tor-X Screws, then your TPS.
Using an Ohmmeter touch the red lead on the Center Pin of the TPS and the black lead on either outside pin.
I used a large blade screwdriver and turned the sensor slowly back and forth. It should register from 100 at rest then up to 225 Ohms (or so) at wide-open-throttle on the Ohmmeter. It should also display a nice steady climb and subsequent steady drop during a back-and- forth, with no glitchy jumps in any area.

That top value of 225 or so, is important and signals the ECU as to what is going on with throttle opening. IF the high-value isn't reached, the Timing-tables and Injector Pulse-Width won't think your throttle body is at w.o.t. and power WILL suffer.

A third arm comes in handy for this exercise but I'm confident you can do it with just the two! When you finally get into a system, hold that facial expression you settled into for the remainder of the testing and things should go smoothly.

"Tastefully" smearing some clear silicone sealant on the TPS keeps water out and them alive and well for a long time.

 

[Kiwi SRT10]

Re-route some of that compressor pressure into your Intake for a huge boost in power. Just the compressor output though, not the horn sound.

The Throttle Position Sensors on these trucks aren't overly robust and are touchy if they get wet. A new one may solve your idle issues. If not, tell everyone you just swapped to a performance cam, and most people will believe it!

The O.E.M. hoods love to drip water right onto the TPS when/if you lifted your hood when it is wet. And that water will sooner than later piss it off.

T.P.S. TESTING...TESTING...

Key-On, not required.

Remove the Connector, Tor-X Screws, then your TPS.
Using an Ohmmeter touch the red lead on the Center Pin of the TPS and the black lead on either outside pin.
I used a large blade screwdriver and turned the sensor slowly back and forth. It should register from 100 at rest then up to 225 Ohms (or so) at wide-open-throttle on the Ohmmeter. It should also display a nice steady climb and subsequent steady drop during a back-and- forth, with no glitchy jumps in any area.

That top value of 225 or so, is important and signals the ECU as to what is going on with throttle opening. IF the high-value isn't reached, the Timing-tables and Injector Pulse-Width won't think your throttle body is at w.o.t. and power WILL suffer.

A third arm comes in handy for this exercise but I'm confident you can do it with just the two! When you finally get into a system, hold that facial expression you settled into for the remainder of the testing and things should go smoothly.

"Tastefully" smearing some clear silicone sealant on the TPS keeps water out and them alive and well for a long time.

Thanks Ronnie will do that. I also have found if your battery is a bit low at crank up it will upset the IAC and so I touch the pos and neg leads together and it resets

 

[rottenronnie]

True dat:
Touching the cables together kills the RAM in the ECU and causes a proper reboot.